D43-45 Rangiro, Tuamotu

Rangiroa  is the largest atoll of French Polynesia and one of the largest in the world after Kwajalein in the Marshall Islands and Huvadhu in the Maldives. The atoll has a flattened elliptic shape with 80km in length, a width ranging from 5 to 32 km and a circumference totaling up to 200km. The lagoon has a maximum depth of 35m and its surface is 1,446 sq km.

Rangiroa has an area of 79 sq km and about 2,500 inhabitants mostly living in its two main villages, namely Avatoru and Tiputa located on two separate motu at the Tiputa Pass. It is famous for its vineyard, vast, stunning lagoon and world-class scuba diving at the two passes teaming with marine life like dolphins and sharks.

Jan 11 I got up early and watched Odyssey passing through the Tiputa Pass shortly after 6am. I joined a full day trip to the famous Blue Lagoon (100 Euro pp) with 42 other passengers from Odyssey. We first headed to the Avatoru Pass  for drift snorkelling. The water is clear with plenty of fish and coral. After this, we had an hour-ride to the Blue Lagoon dotted with picturesque idyllic numerous islets. It is also a nursery for black-tipped reef sharks. We sat in the shallow warm water watching sharks and fish circling around us. I snorkeled for a while and found countless colourful clams and some big fishes hiding in the rocks. Before lunch, we had a guided eco-walk to the next island to look out for lori, an endemic bird of French Polynesia. We spotted three. We also encountered many sting rays in the lagoon.We then had a wonderful Polynesian lunch with BBQ chicken, cerviche, grilled parrot fish and freshly baked coconut bread.

Around 2:45pm we set off for the Green Lagoon on our way back to the pier. Here we had coffee, tea and local cookies. The greatest surprise here was the discovery of eels right next to the pier. I took photos of a dozen of eels, big and small. Wonderful! We took the 6pm tender back to the boat. I had a wonderful excursion!

Jan 12 Today I joined a full day Reef Island tour (100 Euro pp). We had a small group of nine and set off at 9 am. It only took an hour to arrive at an island where we enjoyed solitude and beauty. We were alone without any other boat in sight. There are lots of black-tipped reef sharks. We snorkeled in the coral garden and I saw countless beautiful clams. Before lunch, our guide took us on a walk to the ocean side of the island. After walking for 50 m we began to discover a total different lunar landscape with dark volcanic rock jagged by erosion forming some natural pools for swimming. After lunch, I sat in the water watching sharks and fish swimming around me.

We departed the lagoon before 3pm heading to the aquarium near the Tiputa Pass. Unfortunately, the motor broke down around 3:20pm. The guide called his father and sister for help. Unfortunately, they seemed unclear about our location and after an hour, no boat was in sight. He exchanged phone calls with his sister who finally knew where to look for us. Her boat arrived just before 5 pm and we jumped into her boat. She would wait in our boat for her father to come and  pull it to a port for repair. We would still have time to snorkel in the the aquarium. But most of the passengers seemed exhausted, they wanted to return to the ship. What a pity!  

I would have had a tranquil and perfect day at the reef island and the aquarium had it not been for the disruption.  Anyway, plans are only ideas and I have to take life as it comes along. We were back to the ship around 6 pm. In the evening, I found a group to go to the aquarium at 8:30am the next day for 40 USD pp.

Jan 13 Odyssey would be leaving at noon for Tahiti and the last tender was at 11 am. I took the first tender at 8am and joined a boat with 11 other passengers for snorkeling at the aquarium. We swam with many schools of fish and half a dozen sharks for an hour. The guide was energetic and tried to get the group swimming together. He kept urging us to follow him. As a result, I had hardly time to stop to watch the amazing underwater world below me. We took the 10am tender back to the ship.

I was at the bow to watch the ship navigating through the Tiputa Pass. The colours of the lagoon are breath-taking. I also saw a dozen of dolphins swimming next to the ship.  On the way to Tahiti, the Captain broke the bad news that the ship would not be going to Cook Islands and Niue owing to bad weather that would render tender operation impossible.  Instead, we would spend two more days in Tahiti and in Moorea. We were all disappointed as Cook Islands and Niue are highlights for island lovers.

Day 46-48 Tahiti, Society Islands

Jan 14 I joined two morning exercise classes from 8:30 to 9 am. When I was doing the last stretch and pulled myself up, I had a near fall as my right leg was not strong enough to support my weight. I found myself landed softly on the floor a metre away from the yoga mat without pain or broken bone. But when I was walking to the market an hour later, I experienced pain in the hip and knee. I guessed I might have pulled the muscle or tendon or hurt the bones. The city centre is small centred around the market and the cathedral. After visiting the market, I went to the cathedral and sat through the service at noon. There were over 30 followers at the church and the priest with long hair and a strong voice. I managed to walk to the new mall and found a Japanese stall selling Japanese goods. Alas, a noodle cup is sold for 6 USD (in HK it might cost 2-3 USD). Everything is so expensive in French Polynesia!

I spent the afternoon resting in my cabin. I tried to massage the hip and knee with oil from Thailand. It seemed to work. Ilana disembarked in the evening and flew back to Israel. After dinner I attended Part II of Janette’s wonderful talk on her Pan-American Highway journey. If I were young, I would love to join her overland journey provided I could find someone to drive a camper-van/motor-home.

Jan 15 I didn’t want to walk too much. So I took a bus to Teahupoo, the surfing venue of the 2024 Olympic Games. I was told Bus 31 would arrive around 9am. I was at the stop by 8:40am but did not know the exact location. Then I was told it had just departed. I waited 100 minutes for the next one that arrived at 10am. By the time I arrived at Taravao, the connecting Bus 23 to Teahupoo just pulled away from the terminal at 11:30am. I waited till 12:20pm for the next bus. Alas, the whole morning was spent on waiting for a bus and on the bus!

The ride to Teahupoo is nice and different from the one to Tautira. The coastline is prettier with some lodges. I spent over an hour in Teahupoo looking at the beach and waves. I took the 2pm bus to Taravao and Bus 30 to Papeete: the whole journey took well over two hours! By the time I got back to the ship, it was about 4:30 pm. I have travelled around Tahiti Nui twice on bus. I always like to travel like the locals: it provides me with a slow but interesting way to get to know the place and feel the pulse of the Tahitians. There is always loud music and singing and the passengers know each other.

Jan 16 Do Nothing Day!

D 37 (Jan 4) At Sea

D38-41 Four Days in Marquesas Islands

Lying about 1,370 km northeast of Tahiti and about 4,800 km southwest of Mexico, Marquesas Islands (Marquesas) is one of the world’s most remote place. It is thought to have been formed by a centre of upwelling magma called the Marquesas hot spot. The Marquesas are among the largest island groups in French Polynesia with a combined area of 1,049 sq km and the highest point at Mount Oave on Ua Pou island at 1,230m. Marquesas falls into two geographical divisions. The northern group consists of Eiao, Hatutu, Motu One, and the islands surrounding the large island of Nuka Hiva. The southern group consists of Fatu Hiva, Tahuata, Hiva Oa etc. All the islands of the Marquesas are of volcanic origin except Motu One.

The islands settled in the 10^th century CE by voyagers from West Polynesia, have maintained a remarkably uniform culture, biology and language. The Marquesas were named after the 16^th century Spanish Viceroy of Peru, the Marques de Canete by navigator Alvaro de Mendana who arrived in 1595. In 1842, France took possession of the whole group and established a settlement. Today, the islands with over 10,000 inhabitants, constitute one of the five administrative divisions of French Polynesia with Taiohae on Nuka Hiva as the capital.  

Two Days in Nuka Hiva

Nuka Hiva with an area of 339 sq km and a population of over 3000, is the second largest island in French Polynesia after Tahiti. The island has been  immortalised by literature and TV series. Herman Melville, an American writer, wrote his book Typee (1846) based on his experience in the Taipivai valley. Jules Verne, in his science fiction novel Paris in the Twentieth Century (1863) describes the island as one of the main stock exchanges of the world of 1960. The first landfall of Robert Louis Stevenson on his voyage to the region was at Hatihe’u in July 1888. The novel “Thunder from the Sea” (1973) by Willowdean Chatterson Handy is set on the island in the late 18^th and 19^th centuries, detailing traditional ways of life and the effects of contact between the islanders and the foreigners including the American, British and French who came to the island. It was the filming location for Survivor: Marquesas of the American reality competition series airing in the US in 2002.  

Jan 5 Odyssey dropped anchor off the Bay of Taiohae around noon. I was on the first tender off the ship with no firm plan. Many taxi drivers and tour operators were awaiting us at the pier. After some bargaining, Harlee booked a lady taxi driver Tarae to take us to visit Taipivai and Hatiheu for five hours (70 USD pp) on Jan 6. I spent the afternoon wandering aimlessly and visited the Notre Dame Cathedral which has intricate wooden sculptures inside. At 5:30pm, we watched a dance and music performance for an hour.

Jan 6  I got on the tender at 8 am and set off with seven other passengers at 8:30 am. We had a wonderful excursion with dozen of stops. The first one was a lookout point with beautiful panoramic view of the Bay of Taiohae. We saw cows, goats and many horses along the well-maintained road. The mountain ranges are spectacular: once we drove over the ridge, we had fantastic view of the Comptroller Bay. Then we descended into Taipivai which is a key location and home to archaeological sites like Paeke and Pae Pae Piki Vehine (traditional meeting platform) which often hosts festival events.The Marquesas Arts Festival (Matavae) designed to revive and preserve traditional Marquesas culture, was held here in 2011. Here I read about how Herman Melville (1819-1891) was captured and his short stay in this valley in 1842. Many local  beautiful Marquesas carvings were on display.

We were not in a hurry and spent over half an hour at the Taipivai Beach this lovely spot. Tarae treated us with home-grown mango and bananas. Then we continued our drive to Hatiheu with a stop looking at waterfalls and spectacular views of the mountain ranges, outcrops of rocks and indented beautiful bays.  On our way, we stopped at the most important archaeological site in Nuka Hiva – the Kamuihei site  (or kamuijei/Tahakia/Teiipoka complex) in Haitiheu valley. This is a large ceremonial centre with deep historical roots for navigation and social structure known for its immense stone platforms (paepae), tiki statutes, religious  sites (meae) and extensive petroglyphs. The sprawling complex with huge banyan trees and large basalt stone platforms with moss are spiritual and most atmospheric. Unfortunately, the driver could not tell us much about the site. We spent time over half an hour wandering around this expansive site soaking in the ambience. I love to revisit this site with an archaeologists.

We finally arrived in Hatiheu, a tranquil ancient village with a population of about 400. Our last stop was Tohua Koueve (also known as Paepae Piki Vehine or Temehea Tohua), a historically important site associated with the warrior chief Pakoko. Situated in the Pakiu Valley, it has a large paved platforms, massive banyan trees and contemporary stone carvings. We ended our trip about 3pm.

Jan 7 Tahuata. Today the swell did not permit the operation of tender. I had booked a full day tour (125 USD) to visit Hiva Oa, where French painter Paul Gauguin and Belgian singer Jacques Brel were buried in the Calvary Cemetery. It is also home to the largest tiki sculptures in French Polynesia. I was disappointed when I watched the ship pulling up the anchor before 7 am heading towards Tahuata. I took a panoramic picture of Hiva Oa from Deck 5 just in time.

Tahuata is a small island with an area of 61 sq km and a population of about 600 living in four villages.  I was on the first tender and found myself in Hapatoni shortly after 9 am. I saw a local lady who looks Chinese, and asked her about a tour of the island. Tarea said she could take 4-5 passengers on her 4WD for 180 USD. Harlee, Katy and Karen were interested. So four of us took up the offer and we drove off before 9:30am for bird-watching and a visit to Vaitahu which is 8 km away. The dirt road is uneven and narrow. Tarae is a good driver and we had a great time. We stopped in a bay next to Vaitahu where Tarae often spots Marquesas kingfisher which is endemic to French Polynesia. It is said that there are fewer than 500 individuals left in the wild. We spent about half an hour in the bay and Katy spotted one flying away. It looked  promising and we decided to return before heading back to Hapatoni.

Tarae took us to a lookout overlooking Vaitahu, the largest village on the island.   Here we watched birds and saw white-tailed tropic-bird and red-footed booby, white tern etc. We spent over an hour in Vaitahu. I visited the Church of the Holy Mother of God while others were having lunch. I sat by the beach and a local gave me two ripe and delicious mangoes! He told me his retirement life in Vaitahu taking care of the church: he gives summon every Sunday.  We stopped at the bay to look for the kingfisher. Katy with her sharp eyes spotted one sitting on the goalpost in the football field. Bingo! We were able to watch this beautiful bird for some ten minutes! Mission completed! We were back in Hapatoni after 2 pm.

I visited the Church of the Sacred Heart of Mary, a historic stone church known for its elaborate carvings and stained glass. The small cemetery with full view of the bay is a great place for eternal rest.  I had a lovely relaxing day!  In the evening, I joined the Speaker’s Corner and listening to Janette’s overland journey along the Pan-american highway in 2019-20. She has been running this remarkable 200+ days overland trip since 2004. She is a great traveller, good photographer and wonderful story-teller.

Jan 8 Nuka Hiva. The original plan was to Ua Huka or Fatu Hiva. Mother Nature was not with us: the wind and swell once again prevented tender operation. We had no choice but returned to Nuka Hiva. There are still things I love to visit on the island including a drive to view the canyon, a boat ride to   Hakaui, and a short walk to Tiki Tuhiva.  At the end, I only took a walk to Tiki Tuhiva and spent time bird-watching. I was back on the boat before 2 pm and spent the most of the afternoon in my cabin which is my refuge!

D42-42 (9 – 10 Jan) Two Day at Sea

D 30-31 3 Days in Moorea, Society Islands

Lying 17 km from Tahiti, Moorea has an area of 134 sq km and a population of less than 20,000. Formed as a shield volcano 1.5 to 2.5 million years ago, the island is an atoll today with Mt Tohivea (1,207m) as its highest point. All the adjacent peaks of Mouaroa and Mouaputa are remnant of the eroded crater rim of an extinct shield volcano.  The two large bays, Opunohu Bay and  Cook’s Bay, are separated by Mount Rotui.

Known for its jagged and dramatic volcanic mountains, the island was first sighted by Pedro Fernandes de Queiros in 1606; and Samuel Wallis and James Cook were the first Europeans to arrive on the island. Cook arrived on the island in October 1777 to obtained supplies and first landed in Opunohu Bay (where many exterior shots of the 1984 movie The Bounty were filmed. Cook’s Bay was later named after him in his honour.  

Dec 27 Odyssey anchored in Cook’s Bay in early morning. I went ashore without any booked tour. At the car park, I met a young driver/guide from Safari Tropical Tours who offered a 4×4 tour for about 4 hours for 50 USD for a group of six. With good luck, I met five passengers who would like to join. In addition, we asked him to drop us off in a beach after the tour and pick us up  at 2:30pm.  We began the our exploration at Magic Mountain which offers incredible views of the lagoon, Cook’s Bay and Opunohu Bay. We were by ourselves without other tourists. Wonderful!

We tasted jams and fruits (pineapple, mango,and papaya) in a stand below Magic Mountain. I also had a delicious magic smoothie with coconut ice cream (8 USD). Then we drove through the crater valley which rich soil is excellent for growing pineapples. Our guide took us to a pineapple plantation and explained how to grow pineapple.

Our third stop was the Belvedere for views of the two bays, Mout Rotui and surrounding mountain ranges. Unfortunately, there were too many people. We did not stay long. The next stop was a marae in the forest. I found the place spiritual and atmospheric. The stones of the platform are covered with moss. The trees in the middle of the platform are old. Some roosters on the stone platform further added colours and life.  Our final stop was Moorea distillery where we sampled half a dozen of cocktails, coco liquor and gin. I ended up buying a Coco aperitif (24 USD) as a gift for my niece.

Around 1 pm, we arrived at the popular Ta’ahiamanu Beach in the Opunohu Bay. A fat pig arrived entertaining swimmers on the beach: I watched it stealing  French bread from a plastic bag from a family close to me. It went into the water to cool down before looking for more to eat! I enjoyed the nice clear warm water and beautiful scenery.  We were driven back to the pier at 2:30pm. A good and relaxing day! Our driver also suggested us join a Polynesian Festival in an island on Sunday (This event is held once a month). He put Angela in touch with the organiser. We eventually had some 15 passengers signing up and paid 70 USD pp.

Dec 28 We were picked up by a bus after 8:30am and dropped off at a pier opposite Motu Fareone. A boat took us to Motu Tiahura where we stayed till 2:30pm. Some 150 people mostly locals, turned up at this festival. There was live music. The beach is well-protected without strong current and the water was shallow. I could see coral and fish standing in the sandy bottom by putting my head in the water. The coral garden is not too impressive: too many people have stepped on and damaged the coral. But I was lucky to see a sting ray swimming past me!

I spent most of my time enjoying the atmosphere watching locals having fun on the beach. At 11:30 am, we had buffer lunch with authentic and delicious Polynesian food (chicken with spinach, goat, pork, clam, raw tuna in coconut milk and garlic, cerviche etc). Soon, we saw plenty of terns hoovering above us: they were looking for food too! Then four sting rays arrived and were around when we left. There were also sharks around! On the way back, a group of locals were singing: they were all so cheerful with smiling faces. When we were back in the pier around 3:30pm, it started to rain heavily. We were indeed very lucky with the weather today.

Dec 29  I joined Ilana to snorkel in the Temae Beach. It is a beautiful beach with full view of Tahiti. The coral garden with plenty of fish is fairly good. I shared a taxi with six other passengers and we only paid 10 USD each for the ride. We spent three hours on the beach and were back on the ship for lunch. I must be tired and fell asleep for two hours after lunch! A wonderful and relaxing day. Odyssey set sail at 6pm for Tahiti.

D32-34 3 Days in Tahiti, Society Islands

With an area of 1,044 sq km and a population of over 200,000, Tahiti is the largest island of and the most populous island in French Polynesia. It is the economic, cultural and political centre of French Polynesia with Papeete as its capital. The island is mountainous with surrounding coral reefs. Connected by a short isthmus of Taravao,  the  island was formed from volcanic activity in two overlapping parts, namely Tahiti Nui (bigger, northwestern part) and Tahiti Iti (smaller, southeastern part). Tahiti Nui is dominated by three extinct volcanic mountains namely Mount Orohena (2241m), the tallest in French Polynesia, Mount Aorai and Le Diademe (the rightful queen). Mount Roonui is the highest peak in Tahiti Iti.

Before the arrival of the Europeans in the 17^th century, the island was divided into territories with each dominated by a single clan. Among the European explorers, the most famous one was Captain James Cook who arrived in Tahiti’s Matavai Bay in April 1769 on a scientific mission associated with astronomy, botany and artistic details. He observed the passage of Venus at the present day Point Venus. Cook returned to Tahiti in 1773 and 1777.  The island was part of the Kingdom of Tahiti until its annexation by France in 1880. Today, the indigenous Tahitians are of Polynesian ancestry making up 70% of the population. The remaining 30% are Europeans, East Asians (mostly Chinese), and people of mixed heritage.

Dec 30  By 7 am, Odyssey was moored along side a modern cruise terminal in Papeete. I was in Tahiti in 1999 after my first visit to Antarctic. I cannot no longer recognise Papeete which is now a metropolis of South Pacific. Today, I joined a Tahiti by 4WD tour for eight passengers arranged by Janette (80 USD pp). We were lucky to have a funny and experienced driver cum guide, Hotu. The weather was changeable and we had rain and sunshine!

We followed the coastal main road to Paperoo where we tool the interior route through the Papenoo’s valley. This mountainous interior road was built in 1992. It is a most exciting and beautiful drive with lush green rain forests, dramatic towering peaks, ravines, rivers, countless waterfalls, the Blue Lake and some ancient Polynesian sites.  The road conditions especially after heavy rain are challenging: the road at certain sections, is narrow, bumpy, and very steep. We were lucky to have Hotu who is an excellent driver.

We had lunch at Relais de la Maroto. According to Hotu, this location is the centre of the crater. We had incredible 360 degree views of the three mountains and the Marae Fare Hape. At 1 pm, we continued our uphill drive to reach 800m before entering a 100-m tunnel to begin our descent to Blue Lake. The road condition is worse than the early part. Anyway, we arrived safely at the other side of the island at Mataiea. We had an uneventful drive along the circular road back to Papeete. The tour ended around 4:30pm. It was the best excursion I had since joining the ship on 29 November.

Dec 31 A Day of Joy and Gratitude . It was New Year Eve. I decided to travel around the island on public buses. I left the boat just before 8:30am and went to the visitors’ bureau to pick up a map and for advice. I was told to catch the 9 am Bus 30 near the cruise terminal. I bought a ticket for 200 CFP (2 USD) for two hours’ ride on the island. The bus travelled westward meaning I travelled on the same road between Mataiea and Papeete. I was able to look at the streetscape and countryside more closely. It was a long drive and I did not get off the bus at the Taravao bus terminal after 10:30 am. I would take another bus to Tautira on the eastern coast of Tahiti Iti. Unfortunately Bus 23 had just left and the next bus was at 11:30am. No problem. I went to a large super stall next to the terminal. It had everything though the food stuff, clothing etc were generally more expensive.

The driver of Bus 23 did not ask me to get another ticket knowing I had missed the earlier bus. I had a nice 40-minute ride to Tautira located at the end of the circular road. It is a village with about 2,000 residents. I had a nice conversation in French on the bus with a local lady sitting next to me. She told me the Tahitians love their place, culture and the easy way of life. Tahiti is safe with low crime rate. I spent an hour exploring the village, the town hall of Tautira, a picturesque stone church and the black sand beach.  The employees of the town hall who had just had a party, invited me to have food and a drink. On my way to the church, I was scared by a dozen of dogs howling at me. Then a lady in a car driving next to me to scare the dogs away. When I reached the end of the path, I saw her car again: she was waiting for me to make sure I was safe!  When I was at the beach, I met five local Tahitian guys. One gave me a  coconut so that I could have fresh coconut juice. Another man treated me with a fresh mango from his garden. They made sure I got on the 1:15 pm bus to return to Taravao.

I took Bus 31 at 3 pm to return to Papeete and told the driver I wanted to visit Point Venus. She stopped at Mahina and told me to get off  around 4:10pm. I had to walk as there was no bus. Point Venus is the historic point where Captain Cook observed the passage of Venus in 1769. It started to rain. I knew I would miss Bus 31 that would arrive after 4 pm. So, I decided to hitchhike: a Tahitian lady with her husband gave me a lift to the main road. But Bus 31 which arrived around 4:15pm, did not stop. I was anxious as I did not want to wait for another hour. It started to rain more heavily. I had no alternative but to hitchhike again. With good luck, a car stopped around 4:30pm: the lady said I looked like her friend and she wanted to help me. We had torrential rain all the way to Papeete and I was totally wet by the time I got back to Odyssey around 5pm.

We had New Year Eve dinner in the Thistle Restaurant. While others joined a party at the Coral Club after dinner, I had a lap and got up just in time to join the party to celebrate the arrival of 2026. Then I had my last joyful moment of 2025 when an officer gave me a cute ceramic turtle as a present. He said I was so happy when he pointed out a turtle to me at the Goat’s Island in Pago Pago. He felt he had bought me joy and my smile also made him very happy. He was so sweet! My last day of 2025 was indeed filled with warmth, human touch and surprises! We had champagne and watched fireworks from the ship.

Jan 1 2026  Happy New Year. I decided to have a day for practice. I began with copying the Heart Sutra. Then I recited two other short sutras relating to Avalokiteshvara and Bhaisajyaguru (Medicine Buddha).  I hope they would bring peace to the world and help all those who are suffering. I spent the whole day in retreat in my cabin. At 6pm, the ship set sailed to our  next destination Fakarava.

D35-36 2 Days in Fakarava, Tuamotu Archipelago

Located 450km northeast of Tahiti, Fakarava is the second largest atoll in the west of the Tuamotu group in French Polynesia.The land area is 24 sq km with a population of less than 1,000, while the area of the lagoon is 1,112 sq km. The atoll is roughly rectangular measuring 60km long and 25 wide. Rotoava is the main village. The Pomare Dynasty originated here before ruling the island of Tahiti. The island was first mentioned by Russian navigator Bellingshausen in 1820. French navigator Jules Dumont d’Urville arrived in 1838. Fakarava  became a French territory in the late 19^th century. It has some of the most pristine and undisturbed coral reef ecosystems in the world and the area is very rich in marine fauna, with rays, manta rays, barracudas, groupers, turtles and dolphins. As a result, Fakarava became part of the UNESCO Biosphere Reserve in 1977.

Jan 2 Inspired by Amanda who told me her family would always watch sunrise on New Year Day, I decided to get up to watch my first sunrise in 2026.  I sat the alarm at 5 am and watched a beautiful sunrise around 5:20am. Then I meditated till 6 am. I was tired and went to sleep till 9 am!

Odyssey anchored off Rotoava around noon. I had not booked any tour and hoped to find a tour to take me around the island. The only thing I saw was a 1.5 hour tour for 40 USD pp. With a hip problem, I can’t walk long distance or ride a bike or e-bike. With nothing to do, I walked aimlessly along the main road passing the Church of Saint John of the Cross and a few small bays. There is a beach close to some lodges for snorkelling with sharks and fish. But  it would be too far for me to walk, I gave up and returned to the ship. I ran into Angela who said there might be a chance to get a truck for 30 USD for an island tour. Fantastic! As I did not hear anything about the drive that evening, I thought it was off.

Jan 3  I went ashore at 8 am planning to visit the Topak Lighthouse which is about 9 km west of Rotoava. I tried to pay for a ride. But the lady who was waiting for a group of four for a 1.5 hour tour at 10:30am was not interested in my offer. As a result, I walked along the main road to an abandoned pearl farm and enjoyed watching black tip sharks swimming around the bay. I found a lovely clam next the shore too. I returned to the ship shortly after 10am. Then I joined a snorkeling tour in the lagoon (90 USD pp) at 2 pm. I saw some colorful coral, lots of fish including colorful parrot fish, a baby Napoleon fish, three black tip sharks, and an octopus.  We were back on the ship before 5pm and we set sail for the Marquesas Islands before 6pm.

Day 21-24 (Dec 18-21) at Sea

24 Days in French Polynesia (22/12/2025 – 14/1/2026)

French Polynesia comprises 121 geographically dispersed islands and atolls stretching over more than 2,000 km in South Pacific Ocean with a land area of 3,521 sq km and a population of 282,596 as of September 2025. It is divided into five island groups, namely the Austral Islands, Gambier Islands, Marquesas Islands, Society Islands and the Tuamotus. Of the 121 islands, 75 are inhabited as at 2017 census. Tahiti is the most populous with almost 70% of the population. French Polynesia has three UNESCO World Heritage Sites (WHS): the Taputapuatea Marae (cultural),  the Fakarava Biosphere Reserve (natural) and the “Te Henua Enata -The Marquesas Islands (mixed).

History.  It is believed that the Great Polynesian Migration commenced around 1500 BC. The first islands of French Polynesia to be settled were the Marquesas Islands in about 200 BC and the Society Islands were discovered around 300 AD. Europeans began to arrive in the 16^th century.  Ferdinand Magellan, Portuguese explorer, was the first European to sight Puka-Puka in the Tuamotu – Gambier Archipelago in 1521 followed by a Spanish expedition in 1606 and the Dutch in 1722.  British explorer Samuel Wallis visited Tahiti in 1767 followed by French explorer Louis Antonie de Bougainvillein 1768 and James Cook in 1769 whose mission was to observe the transit of Venus. Cook travelled in the area again in 1773 and 1777. A short-lived Spanish settlement on Tahiti was created in 1774 with arrival of Spanish priests. Protestants from London Missionary Society settled permanently in Polynesia in 1797. Threats from the Europeans forced King Pomare II of Tahiti to flee to Mo’orea in 1803 and his subjects were converted to Protestantism in 1812.

French missionaries arrived in Tahiti in 1834 and their expulsion in 1836 caused France to send a gunboat in 1838. In 1842, Tahiti and Tahuata were declared a French protectorate to allow Catholic missionaries to work undisturbed and Papeete was founded as the capital in 1843. French action led to a war with Tahiti (1844-1847). In 1880, France annexed Tahiti changing its status from a protectorate to that of a colony. In 1889, France officially annexed the island groups and established a French protectorate. Many native resistances and conflicts called the Leewards War lasted until 1897. In 1903, the colony’s name was changed to French Establishment in Oceania. During World War II, the American military based in Bora Bora was prepared for attacks from the Japanese. But the Japanese were not able to launch an actual invasion of the French islands. In 1946, Polynesians were granted French citizenship and the islands’ status was changed to an overseas territory.  In 1957, the island’s name was changed to French Polynesia. In 1977, it was granted partial internal autonomy and the autonomy was extended in 1984. It became a full overseas collectivity of France in 2003.

Day 25 – 27: 3 Days in Bora Bora, Society Islands

Bora Bora with a total land area of 30.55 sq km and a population of 12,000, is surrounded by a lagoon, and a barrier reef. In the centre of the island are the remnants of an extinct volcano rising to two peaks, Mount Otemanu (727m) and Mout Pahia (661m). The name of the island in Tahitian language is  Porapora mai te pora  meaning “created by the gods”. Dutch explorer Jacob Roggeveen was the first European to set foot on the island in 1772.  It remained an independent kingdom until 1888 when the French annexed the island as a colony forcing its last queen Teriimaevarua to abdicate. During World War II, the  US chose Bora Bora as a South Pacific military supply base and constructed an oil depot, an airstrip, a seaplane base, and defensive fortifications. The expedition was known as “Operation Bobcat” comprising nine ships, 18,000 tons of equipment, and nearly 7,000 soldiers. Eight guns/cannons set up at strategic points around the island still remain to this day.

Tonight, I watched a musical “Maggie and JJ” with some 40 residents taking part. The story was based on a true story and the actor and actress and supporting cast did a fantastic job. It started at 8 pm and finished at 10:30pm. A fairly professional production given all the constrains including poor lighting and sound, and inadequate technical support.

Dec 22 Odyssey was at anchor off the Viatape Pier Bora Bora around 7am. It took longer to clear immigration and customs: the first passengers did not get off the ship till almost 9am. As I had only booked a 4×4 island cultural tour in the afternoon, I was not in a hurry. I took a tender at 9:30am and spent two hours strolling a short stretch of the main road looking at a few souvenir shops selling black pearls, art and craft.  I joined a small group 4×4 tour (8 passengers) at 1 pm and had an interesting island tour with many photo stops. The Circle Island Road is approximately 32 km.

 main coastal The first stop was Marae Fare-Opu which belongs to the family of chief Ma’i who reigned on a large part of Bora Bora in the 15^th or 16^th century. Marae means spiritual temple. In the past there existed 42 Marea on the island: today only twelve are visible and Marae Fare-Opu is the largest. Petroglyphs depicting turtles were carved into two of the stone slabs on the facade of the altar. Turtle was regarded as sacred holding mana (spiritual power) of the Ocean Gods who guided navigators across the seas.

We had a nice break at a stand close by that sold  beautiful hand-made pareos. We watched how they dyed the cotton with natural dye before lying the piece of cotton under the strong sun for ten minutes.

The next stop was at the Hiro’s Rock offering spectacular views of the Mt Otemanu and the lagoon. From here one can take a 15 minutes’ hike to see two American cannons. After walking for ten minutes, I decided to turn back: the path is rocky and I am too slow. We stopped here for some 45 minutes. Later we stopped by the coast looking across the lagoon at the rock which looks like a head!

The next two photo stops were at lookout points. At the first hilltop, the guide pointed out three ghost hotel developments, namely Club Med, Sofitel and Sofitel Island Resort. At the second location, we saw a bunker one of the 300 around the island built by the American. We also had great view of the harbour which was formerly a crater/caldera.  The last stop of the day was at the Maitrea beach.

Dec 23 Today Dianne was renting a car for four hours. Ilana, I and another passenger from the ship joined. (28 USD pp). We set off on the Circle Island Road again and we stopped at many places that Dianne and I had no chance to visit. Dianne picked up a map from Avis which shows half a dozen places of interest with good description of location and details. We followed the map, stopped at the Marea Fare-Opu and the pareo stand before snorkelling at a cleaning station frequented by manta rays. We did not see any ray but enjoyed a dip in the ocean. We had many photo stops along the way. A leisure trip!  

Dec 24 Today I joined a full-day snorkelling trip organised by Nancy. I was in the boat with a most entertaining guide cum captain, Jeff. We first stopped at Motu Tapu where we found a majestic manta ray (about 4 m wide): I  floated comfortably watching it swimming towards me half a dozen times. On  a few occasions, I stood right above it or stared into its mouth! Then the boat moved to another shallow part of the lagoon where we found countless reef sharks! I snorkeled so that I could see them underwater. It was like an aquarium with lots of butterfly fish swimming with us. I also saw a sting ray while snorkeling. Before leaving the area, we spotted two eagle rays!

The third stop was at a bay where we had lunch on a private island. Before lunch, we watched and swam with eagle rays. I stayed in the water near the boat and watched five five eagle rays coming and going. The strong swimmers followed a family with 12 rays! We had an excellent lunch with local Polynesian dishes (cerviche, fish, chicken, taro, banana cooked with coconut milk, papaya, pineapple etc). The fish and chicken were so delicious that I had a second helping!  

It was Christmas Eve. Though I was not hungry, I went to the main restaurant and had beef for dinner. I sat with Kim and her friends (Michael and Jim). Jim who joined the ship in Belfast May last year, is a walking dictionary knowing  over 200 residents on the ship! At 8:30pm, we all went to Neptune Lounge for Christmas celebration with carol singing and music for 45 minutes. The organisers had indeed put in a lot of efforts with some 50 people taking part. Afterwards, there was another party at the Morning Light Lounge with cookies and drink! I was tired and retired to my room soon after 10 pm. A great day!

D 28-29  2 Days in Raiatea, Society Islands

Raiatea is the second largest of the Society Islands after Tahiti with an area of  168 sq km. It is widely regarded as the “centre” of the eastern islands in ancient Polynesia. A traditional name of the island is Havai’i, homeland of the Maori people. It is likely that the organised migration to the Hawaiian Islands and other parts of East Polynesia, started at Raiatea. The historical Taputapuatea Marae established by 1000 CE as the political and religious center of eastern Polynesia for several centuries, has been inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2017. The island has a population of 12,000, and Uturoa is the main town on the island.

Dec 25 Merry Christmas. A Day Trip in Taha’a. The ship was docked beside a modern pier at Uturoa after 7am. After the clearance, we were able to step ashore before 8:15am. Nancy had organized a full-day trip for 14 persons (120 USD pp). We got on a comfortable boat next to the pier and sped towards Taha’a (with an area of 90 sq km and a population of about 5,000). The island which is known as the “Vanilla Island” is tranquil off the beaten track. We first visited a vanilla plantation with a talk on the plant and production of vanilla which is a labour of love and highly price produce worldwide. Then we stopped at a rum distillery. It was interesting to see different sugar cane plants – two are local species while several have been imported from other parts of the world. The canes look slender as compare with those I have seen in Asia or the Caribbean.  It is a small production plant and we had a chance to taste several rum and gin. The last stop was at a pearl farm with demonstration on how the famous black pearl is cultured.

Then the boat took us to the Taha’a Coral Garden located between two islands not far from the edge of the lagoon.  We first waded across a shallow lagoon to step on a small island where we followed a path to the end which is the beginning of  drifting snorkel. This spot is close to the edge of the lagoon. As water is chanelled through two islands, it creates strong currents especially at the beginning.  Our guide told us to float and let the currents carry us through the coral garden and back to our boat. As soon as I got myself afloat with a noodle below my chest, I was shooting off immediately. I hardly had time to gaze the coral formations and fish in the water. With a noodle, I found it difficult to flow naturally with the currents. I lost my control and balance a couple of times and brushed against coral which is close to the surface of the water. Luckily, I had long-sleeved top, long pants and shoes on. Hence, I was not hurt! I had done drift snorkelling in Indonesia. But this time the experience is totally different and a bit scary as my belly and legs were brushing against coral. I would have had a much better experience had I worn my own mask and snorkeled without a noodle.

After an exciting snorkelling experience, we had lunch in a private island. It was a delicious meal with raw tuna, tuna skewer and BBQ chicken. During lunch, we had a lovely girl performing the traditional dance. On the way back to Uturoa, we watched a group of at least 30 reef sharks swimming around the boat for some 15 minutes.

Dec 26 Today, I joined a half-day trip to visit the Botanical Garden, Taputapuatea Marae, and a pearl farm on Raiatea. The local guide was cheerful and informative. He and the driver sang cheerfully when he was not briefing us on the history, people, culture and places of interest. In the Raiatea Botanical Garden, we had a guided walk for over half an hour. The garden with an area of over 3 hectares is a tropical oasis with a diverse collection of over 300 plant species. We learned Tahitian Gardenia (known as tiare flower) is the national flower of French Polynesia and the Cook Islands.

The next stop was the Taputapuatea Marae, a WHS. It is a sacred, ancient Polynesian ceremony site with stone platforms. The site stretches over nearly 6 hectares located between land and sea, on the tip of the Matahiraitera’i peninsula.  The history of this high place begins with the cosmogonic myth and the creator god of the Ma’ohi universe, Ta’aroa-Nui, and ends at its last period with the god ‘Oro, whose cult was widely spread in Eastern Polynesia.

On arrival at the site, our guide asked us to take a drawing of an octopus depicting the various maritime routes originating from Raiatea. To fully understand the history and significance of the site, visitors can follow a path with ten stops with illustration. Our guide had time only to show us the three key sites. The old great Marae Taputapuatea is the most emblematic and most deified element of the WHS. The Marae Hauviri, the investiture temple of the paramount chiefs of the Tamatoas’ great lineage that ruled the Leeward Islands until Christianisation, is next by the Taura’a-tapu Beach the landing point for large canoes of the allied or younger chiefdoms invited to major inter-island gatherings or returning to their origins, besides their elders to renew alliances or share and acquire knowledge.

I stayed behind for a few minutes to look at the “Opu-teine’ marae next to the beach and noted it belonged to the younger lineages, who left the Great Ocean during the expansion period, following the great maritime routes plotted out by the mythical octopus Tumu-Ra’i-Fenua. I wished I had come here on my own   so that I would be able to follow the path at my own pace and to soak in the ambience.

Our last stop was a pearl farm not far from the pier. This time, the operator/owner of the farm explained in details about the history, technique and production of black cultured pearl with demonstrations. We were back on the ship well before 1 pm. Unfortunately, I had problems and pains when walking the whole morning. So, after lunch, I rested in my cabin and massaged my legs, knees and the back. The massage and rest seemed to work: I was able to walk in the evening. The ship set sail for Moorea as scheduled at 6pm.

D13 & 14 (Dec 11 &12) At Sea

D15-17 3 Days in Samoa

Samoa is an island country in the South Pacific Ocean with a total land area of 2,831 sq km and a population of about 200,000.  Located 64km west of American Samoa and 1,152 km northeast of Fiji, Samoa consists of two main islands (Savai’I and Upolu), two smaller inhabited island (Manono and Apolima) and several smaller uninhabited islands. The GDP(PPP) 2024 estimate is about 1.225 billion USD  i.e. 5,962USD per capita.

The Lapita people discovered and settled in these islands some 3,500 years ago. Because of the Samoans’ seafaring skills, pre-20th-century European explorers referred the entire island group (including American Samoa) as the “Navigator Islands”.  Christian missionary work in Samoa began in 1830. Germany, the UK and US all took interest in controlling this island group. When the islands became a colony of the German Empire in 1899, British and American warships descended in Apia. The three powers quickly  resolved to end the hostilities and divided the island chain at the Tripartite Convention of 1899, signed at Washington on 2 December 1899 with ratification in February 1900. The western islands became German Samoa while the eastern island-group became a territory of the US. The UK vacated all claims in Samoa and in return received termination of German rights in Tonga, all of the Solomon Islands south of Bougainville and territorial alignments in West Africa. The First World War bought an end of the German administration in Samoa in 1914. New Zealand gained control of German Samoa in 1920 under a League of Nations mandate. Western Samoa gained independence on 1 January 1962 and returned to its original pre-occupation name as Samoa in July 1997.

Dec 13. Apia, Upolu 

Odyssey was at the port by 7am for clearance. I joined a full-day trip organised by Nancy (80 USD pp). It was my first visit to Samoa and I am impressed by its mountainous topography, lust green vegetation, well-paved roads, beautiful and neat countryside. Life on the island seems tranquil and simple. The locals are well-dressed mostly in their local costume.  

We travelled in three minibuses and stopped at the Robert Louis Stevenson Musuem, Baha’i House of Worship, two waterfalls namely Papapapaitai Falls and Togitogiga Waterfalls, Sinalei Reef Resort & Spa for lunch, To-Sua Ocean Trench, Sopo’aga Falls Viewpoint to look at Fuipisia Waterfall and to watch a coconut demonstration. Our last stop was the Piula Cave Pool. There were four opportunities to swim. I only took a dip at Reef Resort looking for coral and fish off the beach and at the Piula Cave Pool.

On this trip, I learn more about RL Stevenson whose famous works include Treasure Island and Strange Case of Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde. Born in Edinburgh, Scotland in 1850, Stevenson and his family wandered the eastern and central Pacific for three years before arriving in Apia in December 1889. Stevenson decided to settle in Samoa in 1890 and bought 127.2 ha of land at Vailima to build a house. He suddenly died on 3 December 1894 at the age of 44 and was buried at Mount Vaea behind his residency which has become a museum since 1994.  

Our guide spoke most passionately about Stevenson who had totally immersed himself in the island’s culture and sparked off a “politically awakening”. Stevenson already foresaw the ascent of colonial powers upon Samoa and openly expressed his concern for Polynesians in the South Sea Letters published in magazines in 1891. Just a few months before his sudden death, he addressed the island chiefs: “There is but one way to defend Samoa. Hear it before it is too late. It is to make roads, and gardens, and care for your trees, and sell their produce wisely, and , in one word, to occupy and use your country…if you do not occupy and use your country, others will…. You and your children will, in that case, be cast out into outer darkness”.  I admire his insight and wisdom: in 1899, the Samoan islands were partitioned between Germany and the US. Today, Samoa is independent while part of the island group is still part of the US.  

Dec 14  People in Samoa are very religious: Sunday is for the church and family and most of the places are closed. The weather in the morning was fine but I was lazy to get up and go out. When I was ready to get off the boat to explore the town, I met Laurie who was interested in sharing a taxi. Unfortunately as she was planning to see some of the spots I visited the day before, I decided to do something on my own. I met two staff from the ship and we shared a taxi to town (5 USD). When we got off the taxi, it started to rain. I took refuge at McDonald hoping the rain would stop in an hour or so. I had a fish burger set meal for 21FJD. It kept raining non-stop and heavily at times. I spent two hours trying to read the Surangama Sutra which is most difficult to comprehend.  Finally I decided to leave at 4pm. I took a taxi and paid the driver 10 USD for a short tour along the Beach Road with a stop at the Immaculate Conception Cathedral rebuilt in 2014 (the original one was built in 1884). The architecture and interior are both impressive.  The carved wooden ceiling, stained glass windows and the ceiling piece at the centre depicting Samoan representation are beautiful.

Dec 15 Today I went to Giant Clam Sanctury, a nature reserve in Savaia, with Ilana. We found a taxi to take us there for 45 USD pp including an hour and a half waiting time. Our driver took an inland shortcut to Savaia which is located on the southern side of the island. I was delighted to see well-kept farms, plantations and homes all the way to Savaia.  Entry fee to the sanctuary is 20 FJD.  It was low tide and I had a great time gazing at a dozen of giant clams and countless small clams in an area marked with buoys and a flag. These wonderful creatures have incredible colours in blue, green, pinkish, purple, brown etc. The biggest ones, which were settled here over 15 years ago when they were already 14 years old, are now more than a metre wide.  It is my first time to see such a great number of giant clams in one location.  However we did not find turtles. Nancy’s group arrived around 1 pm saw two turtles during high tide. We were back to the boat before 1 pm. The boat set sail at 6pm and we crossed the International Date Line.

D18-20 3 Days in American Samoa (GMT-11)

Made up of five volcanic islands (Tutuila, Aunu’u, Ofu, Olosega and Ta’u) and two atolls (Rosa and Swains), American Samoa is an unincorporated territory of the US. It has its constitution since 1967 with an elected governor and a  bicameral legislature. Located about 3,500 km southwest of Hawaii, American Samoa has a land area of 200 sq km and a population of about 50,000. The great majority of the population (83%) is ethnically Samoan closely related to the native people of New Zealand, French Polynesia, Hawaii and Tonga. Pago Pago on Tutuila is the capital.

The economy is based on services and manufacturing with a large part of the income coming in the form of grants from the US federal government. Tuna canning (Starkist Canning Processors Inc.) and tourism are major industries. American Samoa boosts extraordinary nature beauty and biodiversity with marine ecosystems and tropical rainforest under the protection of the National Park of Samoa. Agriculture is organised on a semi-commerical basis for the production of taro, bananas, tropical fruits, and vegetables. It has a GDP (PPP) 2021 estimate at $709 million and per capita at $15,743.

Dec 15 It was Dec 15 again – I gained one day by crossing the International Date Line last night.  I was awaken by loud noises when Odyssey dropped anchor at the port of Pago Pago, Tutuila well before 7am. We were allowed to go ashore after customs and immigration clearance by the US authority.

I took a $20 bus tour with eight other residents of Odyssey. We spent over 3 hours travelling along the main road (Route 001) travelling up to the Turtle and Shark Lookout at Vaitogi before turning around heading to Lu Tala Beach (a private beach before the Two Dollar Beach) with several photo stops including a long stop at the Aerial Tramway (built in 1967 and discontinued in 1992 after damaged by hurricane Val) next to a Plane Crash 1980 Memorial and  a Lookout  offering excellent views over the natural Pago Pago Harbour. We also stopped at the  Fatu Rock, Lafiga Point, and Camel Back.

In the afternoon, Dianne, Inana shared a taxi ($20pp) to visit Vatia located inside the National Park of Samoa for over two hours. It was a wonderful scenic ride over the Afono Pass with fabulous views of the highest peak of the island of Tutuila – Mt. Matafao (653m) and the harbour. We also saw the iconic Vai’av Strait National Natural Monument and Pola Island. We had a leisure stroll in the picturesque Vatia and Afono.

Dec 16 My plan today was to take a ferry to Aunu’u Island, a small island that can be reached on a local ferry for $5 from Au’asi.   Ilana was interested and we set off at 9am. We tried to find a bus at the bus terminal without success. Two Samoan ladies at the Fagatogo Square offered to take us to Au’asi.  They are missionary of the Jehovah Witnesses believing in helping others in need. I told them that as a Buddhist, I respected all religions and fully appreciated their kindness. I gave them $10 as a token of appreciation.

When we arrived at the small wharf, we saw a boat moving away with three passengers. We tried to call it back without success. Then another boat came in. Phil and Conway (father and son) who just arrived in a private charted bus, joined us on the boat. Unfortunately, we found a cargo boat at the Aunu’u wharf transporting drums and vehicles from the island. We had to wait till 10:45am before we could land. While waiting, we asked the boatman to take us round the island. But we dropped the idea when he asked for $200! Too much! (I later found out that the boat before us took the three passengers round the island for $80. They saw many nests and boobies. I wished we were on that boat.)

Known for its unique freshwater marsh and volcanic features, Aunu’u is small island with an area of 1.5 sq km and a population of under 500. The Faimulivai Marsh that was formed from drainage into the low-lying Aunu’u Crater, is a designated protected National Natural Landmark.  As it was very hot, I only walked along the main road for 300-400m before I turned inland. Ilana who is fit, walked on in search of a path to take her to a vantage point to see the marsh and salt lake. I saw banana plantation and coconut trees along the path and met a farmer. He talked about life on the island with sadness: the island was once prosperous with some 200 families. But many have left and their houses are dilapidated. As I walked through the village, I understood what he meant.

I visited a church before heading to the beach next to the wharf. The waves were too strong for swimming.  I therefore walked to the beach on the other side of the wharf: it was covered with broken coral. Around 12 noon,  Phil, Conway, I and the boatman were at the wharf. They took the boat back to Au’asi while I waited for Ilana who turned up before 12:30pm. We met five other passengers from Odyssey.  Phil and Conway were still at the Au’asi wharf waiting for us. So, Ilana and I together with a couple took a ride in their chartered bus back to Pago Pago. Things worked out well saving us time and efforts to find a bus or a taxi back to the harbour. We were back on the boat in time for lunch.

After 4pm, I decided to walk to Goat’s Island Cafe for snorkelling and tasting Oka (Samoan fresh, ceviche-style dish where raw fish is “cooked” in lime juice and mixed with coconut cream, tomatoes, cucumber, onions, and sometimes chili). The mask that I bought in Denarau, Fiji did not work as expected. Hence, I only stayed in the water for a while before heading to the cafe. I met Harlee who was on the boat this morning with her two friends. When they learnt that I was about to order Oka, Harlee invited me to take the dish they had ordered but could not finish. I gladly accepted and her kind offer and enjoyed Oka (with fresh marlin) with a cold beer. I confess that I prefer the Japanese sashimi to ceviche. I met Conway again who spotted a turtle in the water. I watched it swimming close to the beach for some ten minutes.

Harlee had hired a car and offered to take me bird-watching the following morning at 7am. I am lucky: many people have helped me in my life. They are Bodhisattvas!

Dec 17 Harlee and I set off at 7:15 am. We stopped several times on our way to Vatia. I am not a good spotter: I can only identify a few common species including Island thrush, starling, common myna, swift, bulbul, tern, frigate-bird, kingfisher etc.  I love to see the unique and rare endemic birds such as Tooth-billed pigeon and Many-coloured fruit-dove. We also drove to Fagasa Bay which is a Marine Life Sanctuary. I saw many crabs and found the village picturesque. The only nice bird photo I got for the morning was a kingfisher on a tree.

On return to the harbour, we saw frigate-birds and other birds (booby and tern) flying close to the ship. We were back on the ship before 11 am and I had time for snorkelling. Harlee dropped me off at the Goat’s Island before returning the car. With another mask and a noodle for floating, I swam further out with confidence and floated above the coral. I had better snorkelling experience than the day before. But I failed to spot the turtle which was loitering around and seen by others.  I returned to the ship around 1:30pm for lunch. All passengers were on board before 3 pm. The Samoan gave us a farewell at the pier with traditional dance and music and the ship set sail around 4pm.

Remarks (to add)

I love the sea and islands: sailing around the South Pacific has always been on my list. I have been looking at a few cruises in the area including a 37-day Silversea expedition from Fiji to Chile in September 2026. In June, I discovered Odyssey – Ville Vie Residences from a friend who is a resident on the ship, which has been sailing round the world since end September 2024. Its South Pacific segment runs from 10 November 2025 (Cairns) to 19 February 2026 (Sydney). As I have already been to Papua New Guinea, Solomon Islands and Vanuatu, I decide to join the ship in Suva, Fiji on 29 November 2025 and disembark in Noumea, New Caledonia on 3 February 2026. During these 65 days, I shall visit Fiji, Samoa, American Samoa, French Polynesia, Cook Islands, Niue, Tonga, and New Caledonia.

Fiji 25 – 28 November 2025  

Fiji is an island country consisting of an archipelago of more than 330 islands and 500 islets with a total land area of about 18,300 sq km. It has a small population of about a million with the majority (87%) of the population living on the two major islands, Viti Levu and Vanua Levu. Fiji’s history began with Lapita people settling around 3,500 years ago evolving into distinct Melanesian-Polynesian cultures known for warrior traditions. Europeans began to arrive in the 17^th century. In 1874, Fiji was annexed as a British colony and Levuka remained the capital till 1877 when the British moved the capital to Suva.  Fiji claimed independence as a Dominion in 1970 and was declared a republic in 1987. Fiji has suffered instability with several coups d’etat since 1987 with the military often involved in politics.  Ethnic tension has been an issue: Fijians make up about 57% and Indo-Fijians around 43.6% of the population.

I was in Fiji twice. First, I took a 3-day cruise to the Blue Lagoon in 1980s. On my second visit, I had a short diving trip somewhere I have forgotten. Hence, this voyage has given me a chance to see Fiji.

November 25-28 Viti Levu

November 24-25. I departed Hong Kong on Qantas in the evening for Melbourne for a connecting flight to Nadi, Fiji after 1 pm on November 25. As I had a 5-hour transit, I was able to meet up with Caciano, a friend from HKU at the airport. Eventually I arrived in Nadi around 8 pm. I took a taxi (7FJD) for a very short ride to a hotel close to the airport. The taxi driver proposed to take me to my hotel in Suva the following day including two stops (at the sand dune park and Tavuni Hill Fort) for 350FJD.

26 November. I received a message from the taxi driver who said he had problem with his car and would send his cousin instead. I was not comfortable with the arrangement and told him I would find another driver. The receptionist in the hotel called a driver known to the hotel who would charge 300FJD. The driver seemed honest and friendly. But once I was in the car, he said he was not aware of the two sightseeing stops. It started to rain heavily. When we reached the sand dune park, I did not want to go as the ground would be slippery. He was reluctant to go to the hill fort as he was not sure about the road condition. Anyway, as it was raining cats and dogs, I had no alternative but went straight to the Rainforest Eco Lodge located about 10 km from downtown Suva, the capital of Fiji where I stayed for three nights.

I arrived at the lodge next to the Colo-I-Suva Forest Park around 1:30pm. I had a simple but comfortable room on the first floor with a balcony overlooking a pond. The only problem was that the toilet and shower were located on the ground floor. I spent the rest of the day listening to the falling rain and resting. At 11 pm (HK time 7 pm), I joined a zoom session organised by the Centre for Spiritual Progress to Great Awakening (SPGA) chanting for those who died, were injured or helped in a disastrous fire in Hong Kong.

27 November. Suva, the political, economic and cultural centre of Fiji, is home for a third of its population. It is also the economic and cultural capital of the South Pacific with the presence of major international corporations, international agencies and diplomatic missions. I took a local bus (2FJD) and spent the morning exploring the downtown. The traffic around the bus terminal  was chaotic. I like the market which has lots of fresh fruits and vegetables. But once I went beyond this messy area, I found broad avenues, lush parks and grand British colonial buildings.  I visited the City Carnegie Library before arriving at the Fiji Museum which set within the Victorian-era Thurston Gardens. It houses a collection of Fijian artifacts. I was disappointed as the print  were too small and the place was poorly illuminated.

I went to the iconic Grand Pacific Hotel and my curry lunch and beer only cost me 45 FJD. I enjoy the view from the veranda and the charm and architecture of this heritage hotel built in 1914.  Then I took a pleasant bus ride along the beautiful Queen Elizabeth Drive all the way to the University of the South Pacific before heading back to the bus terminal. I took a minibus (3FJD) back to the lodge. As soon as I got back to my room, rain poured down again. I had a wonderful day and joined the chanting on zoom at 11 pm again.

28 November. Odyssey arrived in the Port of Suva in the morning. I met up with Harvie and Yayoi around 1 pm at the car rental office where Harvie picked up a car for two days. Harvie is interested in election systems and we went to the election office where Harvie had written to the office for setting up a meeting. The officer was on sick leave and Harvie would contact him a few days later. Then Yayoi found a nice Indian restaurant and we had a great meal for FJD 75 for three persons. It was almost 3 pm when we set off. Harvie is interested in the off-beaten track and village life of the locals. We followed the Princess Road and then turned left ending up in a village at Lomai. We met a retired police officer who invited us to his home. He was very friendly and told us about life in his village where every family has someone working aboard. Life is good and peaceful. He treated us with kava before we left around 6pm. It was not safe to drive at night especially part of the road was not in good condition. They dropped me off at the lodge. I was on zoom with SPGA chanting till 1:30 am.

29 November 2025 – 3 February 2026 Onboard Odyssey

12 Days in Fiji

D1(29 Nov). I checked out the lodge at 11 am and took a taxi to the port of Suva. I got onboard Odyssey before noon. I was pleased when stepping into cabin 4038 – my home for the next 65 days. The self-contained cabin with an area of about 130 sq ft, has everything I need. As usual, I had to attend a safety briefing at 5pm. I was happy to have my first dinner onboard with Harvie and Yayoi. I spent my first day in my floating home peacefully and had a good sleep.

D2 & 3 Lautoka, Viti Levu

Nov 30. Lautoka is the “Sugar City” and Fiji’s second largest urban area on Viti Levu. The ship docked at the terminal early in the morning. I planned to visit the Garden of the Sleeping Giant, a 20-hectare botanical garden originally curated by Hollywood actor Raymond Burr. It showcases over a thousand varieties of orchids. I asked whether someone on the boat would be interested in sharing a taxi. I got a prompt response from Dianne and we set off before 12 noon sharing a taxi (FJD25 pp). The entrance fee is 30FJD. We spent some two hours appreciating the orchids. I even walked up to a lookout point for a panoramic view of the expansive sea and lust green hinterland. After the garden, Dianne took the taxi back to the terminal while I went to a mud pool nearby. I paid an entrance fee of 40FJD and spent over an hour enjoying a mud bath and soaking in a thermal pool. Wonderful and relaxing!

Instead of paying FJD50 for a taxi back to the ship, I took a short ride (10FJD)  to the main road where I jumped onto a local bus to Lautoka (2.5FJD). I always prefer to travel like and with the locals. I was back on the boat before 5pm.

Dec 1. Today, I joined a snorkelling group (85USD). We were told to meet at 8 am. But we were not picked up till 9am: they said it was Fijian time. I found this annoying as I was tired of standing and wasting time. I would rather spend my time reading or chanting sutra. It was even more frustrating when we spent an hour travelling beyond Nadi to get on a boat. It was around 11 am when we arrived at a sandbar. After snorkelling for half an hour, we moved to a submerged rock nearby with lots of fish. Then the tour operator planned to take us to Treasure Island for lunch and more snorkelling. The island said it was full. The guide then went over to Beachcomber Island which again turned us away. Finally we went to Serenity Island. I did not bother to snorkel as there were currents. The snorkelling experience was so-so and not value-for-money. The arrangements were poor. We got back to the boat before 5 pm and the boat set sail at 6 pm.

D4 & 5 Port Denarau,Viti Levu

Dec 2. Today, I joined Nancy’s group to visit two main attractions in Sigatoka.  We paid 41USD pp for transportation and our first stop was the Sand Dune National Park which I missed on 26 November due to heavy rainfall. We spent an hour and a half hiking in the park which was the first national park in Fiji. Then we had lunch in Sigatoka before driving uphill to visit the Tavuni Hill Fort on an off-beat track. The fort overlooks the Sigatoka River. We had a good Fijian guide who explained the history of this ancient fort constructed by a clan of Tongans who arrived in early 1800s under its chief Maile Latumai. She showed us the onsite archaeological features including the foundation of the chief’s bure, limestone walls, lovo pits, nearly 60 house mounds and sacrifice stone. The hill fort was stormed and destroyed by the British colonial government in 1876 and has never been resettled. The fort has been restored since 2000s.  I had a really interesting and enjoyable day with fine weather.

Dec 3. I spent the morning in Club Wyndham listening to a presentation on its time-share scheme. Out of the blue, I ended up joining the club which would entitle me to have 7000 credits a year till 2080 for spending on the club’s accommodation! Then I spent two hours trying to get a prescribed mask for snorkelling. I failed to get one and eventually bought soft contact lens for use when snorkelling.

D6 – 8 Savusavu, Vanua Levu

Dec 4. The boat did not dock arrive at Savusavu till 2 pm. Savusavu, with lust rain forests, pristine bays, hot springs and world-class diving has been known as “Hidden Paradise”. I shared a taxi with Nancy and two other passengers (10FJD pp) to visit the Flora Tropica Botanical Gardens which is famous for its extensive collection of palm trees. We spent an hour and a half in this paradise and learnt a lot about endangered palm trees.

Dec 5. I joined Nancy’s party of six to share a taxi (8FJD pp) to go to snorkel at Split Rock. The new mask I bought in Denaru did not fit properly. I dared not go too far from the shore and didn’t see much. Luckily it was a freebie!

In the afternoon, Nancy organised a visit to the Muanivatu Waterfall (60FJD). The drive to the waterfall was nice. The waterfall is pretty with refreshingly cool water. Most of us had a cool dip!

Dec 6. Nancy arranged a snorkelling trip in Natewa Bay. We snorkeled three times. I was thrilled to find a variety of soft and hard coral in healthy and pristine conditions. Even without a prescribed mask, I could see the coral and colorful fish (big and small) clearly as the coral was close to the surface and the water was crystal clear. Some saw a large eel, clams, yellow puffer fish etc. I was back on the boat by 3 pm after a most wonderful snorkel.  

D9 At Sea

Odyssey’s original itinerary would take us to Futura and Wallis after Savusavu, Unfortunately owing to lack of landing facilities, the Captain had to change course. We would instead spent four more days in Fiji. Today, we spent a day at sea which was very rough. I took the opportunity to relax and rest.

D10 Leleuvia Island Resort

Dec 8. We arrived at Leleuvia, a coral cay in Lomaiviti Archipelago in the morning. But I did not get off till 1 pm as I had a training session with Lu: I want to build up muscles and improve mobility through exercise. This picturesque island resort is popular among beachcombers and kite surfers. The water is pristine and we could snorkel close to the beach. I walked around the island before snorkelling close to the beach. I took a tender back to the ship around 5:30pm. Alas, though the sea appeared calm, the swell was horrific. When the tender was approaching the ship, it was suddenly thrown onto it. A lady was thrown off her seat and hurt her head and back. I was almost thrown off my seat too! She cried out in pain. I prayed she was not badly injured and would recover as soon as possible.

D11 & 12 Levuka, Ovalau Island

Dec 9. Located in Lomaiviti Archipelago, Ovalau is Fiji’s sixth largest island with a total area of 106.4 sq km and an estimated population of 10,000.  Levuka, Fiji’s former capital and a World Heritage Site, is the largest place on the island. A 50-km long road circles the island. Odyssey anchored off the island and we took a 20-minute tender ride to the port at Levuka.

I landed on the island after 10 am. Founded in 1820 by European settlers and traders as the first modern town in Fiji islands, Levuka is a port town displaying exceptional testimony to the late colonial port towns in the Pacific. Marist priests established a mission in Levuka in 1858 and built the Sacred Heart Church on the Beach Street which is lined with historical buildings. Much of its unique heritage is in its wooden architecture. The economic activity is related to fishing. In 1964, the Pacific Fishing Company (PAFCO) was founded by a Japanese firm in 1964 and specialized in freezing and shipping canned tuna mostly to markets in Europe and Canada. A cannery, a joint PAFCO-government venture was opened in 1976 is the largest private employer on the island. Owing to its isolated location, tourism plays only a minor role in local economy.

As I had a whole day on the island, I intended to take local transportation to go round the island. But there was no round-island bus. Instead, I took the first truck I found and went to Lovoni that is nestled in an inland crater in the centre of the Ovalau Island. During the most bumpy and uncomfortable hour-long ride to Lovoni, I was lucky to meet Seru, a retired dentist who invited me to visit her home.

The Lovoni valley surrounded by mountains with six villages, is a paradise. Seru treated with me lemongrass tea, cracker and roti. She is a few years younger and her husband who was a teacher died four years ago. Her three sons and eight grandchildren now live in Nadi, Suva and Nausori on Viti Levu. She is a devoted Christian and now works as a part-time counsellor at a middle-school while keeping a handicraft stall in the market in Levuka. She gave me a fan made from banana leaf as a souvenir.

The heat and humidity made me drowsy. I dozed off on the sofa for almost an hour.  She invited me to spend a night in her house. As I was dirty and sweaty, I preferred to return to the ship. Seru showed me around and pointed to me the real centre of Fiji which is located in her village in Lovoni. As there was no transportation back to Lovini, she found me a driver in another village to take me back to Levuka for 50FJD. The ride back in a car was much more comfortable. I was lucky to visit the crater valley and had a truly Fijian experience.  As I had an unused cash coupon of 50FJD from Jack’s of Fiji, I gave it to Seru as a Christmas present. My driver dropped me at the top of the 199 Steps Mission Hill for a panoramic view of Levuka. I took a 6pm tender back to the ship.

Dec 10. I was back ashore shortly after 9am. Today, I took a taxi (FJD50) to travel along the coast all the way to Arovudi with stops at an Anglican church, the Bishop’s Tomb, St John the Baptist Church and College, and European War Memorial. I enjoyed the 2-hour ride with Inoke, my driver. At the Bishop’s Tomb, I met Ana, a young girl from a nearby village. I invited her to take a ride to Arovudi: she became my sheperd. I was delighted to meet two lovely Fijians.

Around 11:30am, I got off at the market trying to look for Seru. She was not at her stall. Then I walked to Royal Hotel, Fiji’s oldest operating hotel built in 1852. Unfortunately the Australian owner is away, the hotel might be reopen next year. I visited the Sacred Heart Church which interior is simple but serenely decorated. I must have local food before leaving Fiji: the locals recommended Bula Vinaka on Beach Street to me. The place is simple but clean and I went to the kitchen to choose the fish I liked! I paid 12 FJD for a fish tail cooked in coconut milk and cassava. An interesting experience though the fish was tough and fairly tasteless.

As I had more than 220FJD left, I went to Westpac hoping to change the money to USD. The officer in change was off for lunch and I had to wait for his return. Alas, the procedure was unbelievably cumbersome and inefficient. Possibly owing to different culture and miscommunication, I spent over 30 minutes at the counter. He first told me I could get USD96. Then he said he had no dollars and could only give me USD43. For the remaining sum, he would give me Australian dollars (about AUD110 + 10 FJD). As a matter of fact, he only had US 100 bills. Had he explained the situation clearly, I would have simply got all in AUD saving time and efforts for both of us! By the time I got to the port, the 2 pm tender had just departed. I had to sit for an hour for the next tender. That is life on slow lane at sea! I was back on the boat after 3 pm and the boat set sail at 6pm. I watched a gorgeous sunset with pink, gold and orange hues over Ovalau Island before dinner.  

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