After having completed the 88-Temple Pilgrimage last November, I decided to join a pilgrimage to visit 20 sacred sites associated with Kukai, Kobo Daishi (774-835). This 20 sacred site pilgrimage route celebrated its 50 anniversary this year. We had a small group led by MY with 14 participants. covering over 1000km in four days in Shikoku. We began and finished the journey at Tokushima visiting one site in Kochi, four in Kagawa, six in Tokushima and nine in Ehime.

October 9 Hong Kong – Osaka – Tokushima

The group taking a 8am-flight from HK to Osaka, arrived at Osaka Kansai Airport after 1 pm. I waited for them at the arrival hall. By the time the group was ready to set off, it was 2:30 pm. We boarded a comfortable bus and drove all the way to a shop in Tokushima to buy noukyocho (stamp book), name slips, other pilgrim regalia (incense, candles etc). It got dark shortly after 5:30pm. We arrived at JR Clement Hotel next to Tokushima train station before 7pm. A long travel day!

October 10: 4 Temples- Temple 1 – 4 in Tokushima

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We basically followed the same routine setting off at 8 am. When we arrived at each site, we followed the same procedures including washing/cleansing our hands and mind, lighting incense/candles, put name slips in a box, reciting Heart Sutra, chanting mantra for the principal image in the main hall. We then moved to the Daishi Hall and repeated the same procedure but without chanting the mantra of the principal image. While some of of the sacred sites are located in built-up area/village and close to each other, a few are located high in the mountain. On a few occasions, we had to drive about two hours to reach the site. One the first and second day, we only visited four temples.

We visited Temple 1 -Taisan-ji with Senju-kanseon-bosatsu as the Principle Image. We had to walk a few flights of staircases. The temple ground is peaceful. It did not take long to arrive at Temple 2-Dogaku-ji which Principle Image is Yakuyoke-yakushi-nyorai. It is said that Kobo Daishi had played in this site when he was a child. Hence the name.

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In Temple 3- Jugen-ji, there is a cave at the top of the hill behind the main hall where Kobo Daishi had medicated. As a return trip would take an hour, we did not visit the cave. Pilgrims have to pass a body fitness test here: I passed the test as I was able to squeeze through the narrow space behind a marble stone plaque as shown in the photo below. The Principle Image of this temple is Juichimen- kanseon-bosatsu.

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Temple 4 – Sabadaishi-Honbo which Principle Image is Kobo Daishi is unique. In the Daishi Hall, there is a stone mackeral with a story. A horseman once used abusive language at and refused to give a salted mackerel to Daishi. Then when his horse reached Umabikizaka, it suddenly began to suffer. The horseman then realised the monk he had seen was a Great Master and went to apologize and offer the mackerel to cure the horse’s illness. Once Daishi gave the horse divine water, it immediately recovered. When Daishi blessed the salted mackerel on Hosho Island, it came back to lifeand swam away. The horseman then built a hermitage there making it a sacred place for salvation for people in the past and future.

October 11: 4 Temples: Temple 5 in Kochi and 6-8 in Ehime

Temple 5 Daizen-ji which Principle Image is Kobo Daishi, is the only site in Kochi. Over 1250 years ago, the sea inlet at Susaki was very wide and the current Daishi Hall site was a cape jutting out into the sea. At that time, people usually went over the mountains and could go around the edge of the two-stoned cape. Sea disasters were frequent and people who were unclean were said to sometimes encounter strange phenomena. When Daishi heard about this, he prayed on a large rock on the coast for the souls of those who had died in sea disasters, praying for safe travels on land and sea and built a temple which is the origin of the current Daishido. From the grounds in front of the main hall, one can see the Pacific Ocean below. Even today, Kobo Daishi prays for everyone’s eternal happiness on top of the two rocks.

Daishi lived in various parts of Shikoku while training, received cultural blessings from the cities he visited, requested the creation of 88 spiritual halls in Shikoku. In the year of Daido, his personal wish came to fruition: Temple 6 Ryukoin was built in 1615 in commemoration by Hidemune Date, the first feudal lord upon his entry to Uwajima, to ensure the peace and security of the domain and its people. The Principle Image is Juichimen- kanseon-bosatsu.

After lunch, we proceeded to Temple 7 Kinzan Shusseki-ji which Principle Image is Senju-kanseon-bosatsu. The temple was founded in 718. A hunter followed a deer up this mountain. When he was about to shoot it, the whole mountain shook and a brilliant light shone. The deer disappeared and the rock under its feet split into two and the statutes of the Thousand-Armed Kannon Bodhisattva ( Senju-kanseon-bosatsu) and Jizo Bodhisattva emerged from the ground emitting a golden light. The hunter gave up hunting and became a Buddhist. Daishi during his visit to this place praised the statue as “the most beautiful gold mine in the three countries” and sealed it in a stone chamber as a secret Buddha.

It was almost 5 pm when we arrived at the location of a former earthen bridge over a stream where Daishi had spent a night and that one night felt like ten nights. This is the raison d’etre of Temple 8 Toyogahashi Eitoku-ji ( Principle Image – Miroku- bosatsu) that was badly damaged during a flood in 2018. The main hall has been totally rebuilt and the Daishi Hall next to the stream has been renovated.

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Today, I took a few photos of the countryside in Kochi, the Shimanto River and the coastline. I watched sunset from the coach. During a brief stop, we met an elderly Japanese man drinking sake and having sashimi by a beach. A simple but most wonderful way to enjoy life!

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October 12: 7 Temples- Temple 9-14 in Ehime and 16 in Kagawa

Guided by Bodhisattva Manjusri, Daishi had stayed in Temple 9 Monjuin with Jizo-bosatsu and Monju-bosatsu and enlightened the people. Kono Emon Saburo who realized his sin after losing eight children, set out on a pilgrimage to repent and apologize to Daishi. This was the beginning of his pilgrimage and after eight years and 21 pilgrimages to the sacred sites of Shikoku, he finally met Daishi again. Later Daishi reincarnated Emon Saburo as the lord of Iyo Province and ruled well. In later years, the temple was moved to Emon Saburo’s former residence and became the Kono family’s temple.

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Temple 10 Nishiyama Koryu-ji covering an expansive ground on West Hill founded by monk Kuhachi in 642, is a gem with many scenic spots and nationally designated important tangible cultural property. It was visited by Daishi and highly revered by imperial families, military commanders and feudal lords, and local believers. The Principle Image is Juichimen- senju-sengen-kanseon-bosatsu. We had a beautiful walk to the main hall and the three-story pagoda. This was a highlight of the day!

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Temple 11 Ikiki Jizo (Living Wood Jizo) has an interesting legend. Daishi slept one night at Mt Shio and saw a brilliant light on the mountain. At dawn he saw the auspicious large camphor tree. A boy appeared and the Buddha spoke to him saying, “The boy’s incarnation will show me”. That night Daishi struck the camphor tree with his sacred sword, making three bows and carved a sacred statute of Enmei Jizo Daibosatsu which becomes the principal image of this temple. On September 26, 1954, the sacred camphor tree was blown down by strong winds but the Jizo statue did not fall: it still stands in the Main Hall today.

After a short drive, we reached Temple 12 Enmei-ji which Principle Image is Enmei-jizo-bisatsu. Daishi found a certain Izari Pine tree at this temple taking pity on her and created an Awl Amulet. He gave one to Izari and due to subtle miracle, she immediately recovered. She recited the Awl and was ordained as a monk. The Awl from that time still exists as a temple treasure. It is a vow that if you pray sincerely for this awl Amulet morning and evening, you will be relieved of all kinds of illness. You will also be praying for safe childbirth.

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The spectacular and atmospheric Temple 13 Sennryu-ji perching on a cliff was founded by Kobo Daishi at the age of 42 when he climbed the mountain and enshrined Takizawa Daigongen and Kaiun Fudoson in Kongo Cave. He built a goma altar for health and disaster prevention, purify his body and mind in the “Kiyome-no-taki” waterfall every morning and evening, and made tow requests for “good luck protection” and “protection from insects and bountiful harvests”. He performed goma training for twenty-one days and then carved a statue of himself and enshrined it on the mountain. The principal image of the temple is Kobo Daishi and believers from all over the country visit the temple throughout the year.

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Temple 14 Tsubakido which Principle Image is Enmei-jizo-bisatsu, was first built in 807 as a hermitage by Kuniji Koji. A traveling monk (Kobo Daishi) visited the hermitage on 15 October 815 and learnt about a terrible fever that spread and caused suffering to the residents. He gathered the residents and stuck his walking stick in the soil, prayed and sealed the disease in the soil along with the stick before leaving. Later, a camellia sprouted and grew upside down from the stick. Nowadays, faithful believers come to touch Daishi’s left hand with his/her right hand and then touch the parts of his/her body with problem.

Founded by Kobo Daishi during the Daido era, Temple 16 Hagiwara-ji is serene and elegant: it was the place of imperial consultation for Emperor Suzaku. Later it became a place of prayer for Lord Hosokawa. It has been the head temple of the Roppoken Shinkata school, the light of the law has been passed down and the Onza Goma ritual is famous. It is known as a famous spot for Hagi, with Hagi bush clover designated as a prefectural natural monument. There are also numerous temple treasures. The Principle Image of the temple is Karadasan-hibuse-jizo-bosatsu.

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October 13: Temple 15 & 20 in Tokushima, and 17-19 in Kagawa

When I opened the curtain in the morning, I was thrilled to find clouds floating in the valley and at top of two mountain ranges. We sat off as usual at 8 am hoping to visit the last five temples today. First after a short drive, we reached the foothill of Temple 15 Hashikura-ji (Principle Image – Konpira-dai-gongen). We had a short ride on a cable car followed by a fairly long walk to the main temple. It is wonderful to find the Heart Sutra engraved into the long staircases lined with old trees. Very serene atmospheric!

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Another interesting feature of this temple is the installations of the principle deities of the 88 Temples on a flat ground after the temple ground. By walking counter-clockwise this year, one can accumulate three times the merit. So I walked counter clockwise twice! I could have spent the whole morning in this temple.

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Temple 17: Kanno-ji founded by Kobo Daishi, protects the Mannoike Pond with Yaskushi-nyorai as the Principle Image. In 1581,the temple was burnt down and became abandoned. In 1934, the Manno Daishi Associaiton was formed and rebuilt the temple marking the 1,100 anniversary of the death of Kobo Daishi. Here The Daishi Hall is open-air and unique: a Kobo Daishi copper statue stands on a small hilltop overlooking at the pond. Here we met an elderly pilgrim in shorts who chanted, sang Italian opera and rode a bicycle.

MY, our guide explained Temple 18 Kaigan-ji with Sho-kanzeon-bosatsu as the Principal Image, was the birth place of Kobo Daishi and his parents. The Main Hall looks relatively new. The Daishi Hall considered the inner sanctuary, which is quite a distance from the Main Hall, is atmospheric and ancient. It is said that one can see the birth basin. But I missed it. I also climbed a small hill with a two-storey pagoda a next to Daishi Hall.

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Temple 19 Kozai-ji founded by the monk Gyoki in the Nara period was originally located at the foot of Mount Shoga and called Shoga-ji. Kobo Daishi rebuilt and moved it to the current location. The Principle Image is Enmei-jizo-bisatsu. The temple has a fairly complicated history rebuilt, relocated and renamed several times. It was selected as an imperial temple by Emperor Saga and during the reign of Emperor Suzaku, it was selected as a dangisho (a place to study for monks). It was rebuilt and named as Kozan-ji during the Kamakura period. It was relocated back to the current site during Manji era (1658-1661) and rebuilt in the Kanbun era (1661-1673). However most of the original seven buildings were lost in a fire and today, only the grand Main Hall, Daishi Hall and a couple of small structures remain. However, I can see its grandeur during its hey days. MY arranged our certificates here as the 86-year-old head of the temple writes beautifully.

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We then raced to Temple 20 Otaki-ji which Principle Image is Nishiteru-dai-gongen. Located near the peak of Mt Otaki (940m above sea level), the temple is accessible by taking a narrow and winding for over half an hour. I almost had an upset stomach. We arrived at the temple just before 5pm and we were thrilled to complete the pilgrimage within four days. MY gave us the certificate of completion and we took photos in front of the temple while watching sunset. It took us almost an hour to reach the hotel.

October 14 Tokushima-Osaka-Hong Kong

We had a relaxing travel day. We departed at 8:30am returning to the same area where we purchased our stuff on the first day. We placed order for a Buddhist beads bracelet using the 20 beads obtained from each temple. Then we had a sumptuous lunch in the same private club where we had our 88-temple graduation lunch last November. The setting, presentation and quality of the food were both gorgeous. We set off for Kansai Airport after lunch. While the group CX flight was at 6:45pm, my cheap HK Express flight would not leave till 8:50pm. I had to spend over five hours at the airport. By the time I got home, it was after 12:30 am on October 15. I felt exhausted but was glad to be home after almost two months.

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Remarks

I am pleased to have completed the 88-temple pilgrimage that I began in 2012 as well as the pilgrimage to 20 sacred sites on the occasion of the 1,250 anniversary of Kobo Daishi. I particularly like Temples 1 (Taisan-ji), 2 (Dogaku-ji), 7 (Shusseki-ji), 10 (Koryu-ji), 13(Senryu-ji), 15 (Hashikura-ji) and 16 (Hagiwara-ji). It would be wonderful to see foliage in Temples 7, 10, 13, 15 and 16. I hope to revisit some of the 108 temples one day. (to continue)

A Gap Week

The raison d’etre of my visit to Japan is to join the Shikoku pilgrimage would take place from October 9 – 14. After Hokkaido, I flied to Tokyo, spending two nights in Nikko and three nights in Tokyo before spending a night at the Nikko Hotel at Osaka Kansai Airport to wait for the group from Hong Kong.

October 2 Sapporo – Tokyo

I toyed with the idea of purchasing a 7-day Japan Rail Pass for use after Hokkaido. As I find it increasingly difficult to travel with my luggage, I finally decided to fly when I found a cheap ticket on Spring Airlines. The plane took off around 11 am and I was in Narita an hour and a half later. I took an airport bus to Shinjuku and then a taxi to my hotel in Kabukicho. It was the first time I stayed in this entertainment district best known for adult-oriented nightlife. I am not interested in nightlife: a brief stay and people watching give me a feel about this district. The young people I have come across early in the morning all look pale and a bit weird. I suppose they might have stayed up the whole night drinking, smoking and having fun. It is an eye-opening experience. But I would unlikely return to stay in this area.

October 3-4 Nikko

Nikko is one of my favourite places in Japan. I was looking for foliage on my third visit. Unfortunately it was too early. On this occasion, I bought a 4-day Nikko All Area Pass (4780 yen) which covers a return ticket on local train on Tobu Railway between Asakusa and Nikko / Kinugawa Onsen, an extensive bus network in Nikko and a lake cruise. I had to pay an extra 1650 yen to take a limited express to Nikko. This was the first time I bought this pass. Though I would use it only for three days as I had to return to Tokyo on 5 October, I still considered it most value for money and would highly recommend it to visitors without car.

Despite the unstable weather, I enjoyed doing whatever my mood took me and my hip allowed me to do. I treasured my time in Nikko with many memorable moments.

First, I loved the long scenic ride to Lake Yunoko (with 45 stops) each day. Second, I visited the three most famous falls in Nikko and enjoyed walking 1-2 km through the wood or along the river to the Ryuzu and Yudaki Falls. For the Kegon Falls, I paid 600 yen to take a lift to a platform 100m below in order to have full view of the waterfall.

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Third, I had a most atmospheric Lake Chuzenji sightseeing cruise. When I got on the boat, it was so foggy that I could not even see the boat till it was right in front of me at the pier. Then with ten minutes later, the sun suddenly pierced through thick cloud resulting in most beautiful lights and rolling mist over the lake.

Fourth, I took the train to Kinugawa Onsen and saw the Kinu River and the famous steam train in action.

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Fifth, I was stuck in the Lake Yunoko for an hour owing to the rain. So I could not walk round the lake to Yodaki Falls as planned. But I enjoyed sitting in the cafe watching the rain, trout jumping out of water and talking with a French couple from Avignon. Later despite the rain, I went to the Yodaki Falls, then follow the boardwalk to Kodaki Falls and finally following the staircase next to the Yodaki Falls back to Lake Yunoko where I took a bus.

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Finally, I was moved when an Austrian couple whom I ran into twice that day offered to give me a lift. As it started to drizzle and getting dark, I took their kind offer instead of standing in the rain to wait for a bus.

October 5 – 7 Reunion

On October 5, I had dinner with Miyo a friend I first met in Yellowknife Canada watching Northern Lights in 2014. She accompanied us hiking Mt Fuji in 2016. She is elegant and kind and we had a great time catching up while having most delicious sushi omakase.

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On October 6 and 7, I went to Yokohama to meet Alan, my brother from Australia and Vicki, my sister-in-law. They just got off the boat in Yokohama after a 13-day cruise. It was wonderful to be able to meet up and spend time together. We had dim sum lunch in Yokohama China Town and sashimi and tempura in the fish market.

During my stay in Tokyo, I went to the National Art Centre to see “Keiichi Tanaami: Adventures of Memory”. Tanaami (1936-2024) is highly regarded as a pop-artist and modern border-crossing person. I don’t know him but am most impressed by his energy and 60+ years of creativity: as a prolific artist, his graphic designs, illustrations, paintings, collages, sculptures, animations, experimental videos, installations etc are iconic and distinctive.

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After lunch in Yokohama, I went to Harajuku strolling aimless for almost two hours. It was wonderful to see a young dog-walker with 19 dogs. It was nice to window-shopping. I have no fashion sense and it is great to watch the young people in trendy fashion walking by. I sat outside Laforet watching people and the streetscape. Then I went to Tokyu Plaza which has an expansive green garden on the sixth floor. A nice urban escape!

I had never taken long distance bus in Japan. This time, I took the overnight bus leaving Shinjuku Express Bus station at 10:35pm. It was quite an experience. The Bus with 44 seats is neat, clean and tidy. There is a curtain between each seat (for privacy I suppose). Most the passengers were Japanese young ladies/girls probably under 30. I noticed that the men were assigned seats at the front. I do not fine the seat too comfortable (perhaps it is designed to meet Japanese preference and habits).

October 8 Osaka Kansai Airport

Today was a rest day as I had nothing particular I wished to do. I got off the bus at Namba Osaka shortly after 7 am. Then after having a breakfast in a nice coffee shop, I took the Nankai train to Kansai (970 yen) and waited till 2 am to check in Nikko Hotel at the airport. As the hotel Chinese restaurant offers a dim sum buffet, I might just as well enjoy a nice lunch before check-in. As a senior citizen over 65, I only had to pay 3600 yen for a buffet with a choice of 25 types of dim sum. The restaurant has elegant decor. Presentation of the dim sum was good though the dim sum in Hong Kong is more authentic and delicious. I spent the rest of the day in my comfortable room writing travel notes and read. A relaxing day

Why Japan?

I have joined a 6-day pilgrimage trip to Shikoku from 9 to 14 October. Hence, instead of returning to Hong Kong after the Northwest Passage, I decide to spend the gap time looking for foliage in Hokkaido.

September 21 Sapporo

I must be exhausted and managed to sleep on the 12-hour flight to Taipei. After a 3-hour transit in Taipei, I continued my journey to Sapporo which I visited in ?. I took the train to the city centre and stayed in Hotel Gracery opposite the station. I bought a 10-day Hokkaido train pass for 33,000 yen. Everything was settled and I went to bed after 8 pm.

September 22 -23 Sounkyo

I got up after 4 am after a good rest. So I set off before 8 am for Asahikawa where I took a local train to Kamikawa followed by a bus to Sounkyo (890 yen). The scenery of the 12.4-mile Sounkyo Gorge flanked by 100 meter high forested cliffs is impressive. I arrived at my destination around after 11:30 am. As I could not check in at Sounkyo Kankou Hotel till 3pm, I took a local bus departing at 12:50 pm with three stops at Ginga Waterfall, Obako and Taisetsu (450 yen). I met two ladies from Hong Kong on the bus. We went to the lake but there was nothing to see. We later discovered we should have got off at Obako for a close-up look at the gorge by the Ishikari River. On the way back, I got off at the Ginga Waterfall (350 yen). Here I got a good view of both the Ginga and Ryusei waterfalls. I walked 2km back to Sounkyo. The scenery is not impressive. After checking in, I spent time in the onsen which is good for my hip and back problem.

I got up very early the next day and was ready to visit Mt Kuro (1984m). Visitors can take a cable car to the fifth station followed by chair lift to the seventh station for 3,300 yen return. The cable car begins to run at 6 am. I was on the 6:20am cable car and reached the seventh station after 7 am. I was lucky as the weather was good. I watched clouds rolling in the Sounkyo Gorge and the sea of clouds over the mountain range. I began my ascent after 7:15am. While an average hiker takes about an hour to hike 1.7 km with an ascent of 452m to the top of Mt Kuro. Given my hip problem, I walked slowly and struggled to climb over the stony path. I thought of giving up at one point. Anyway, I was thrilled to reach the top just before 9:30am. I loved the tranquility and warm sunshine and could spend the whole day there. But as the weather could change quickly, I had to pull myself up and began the descent which was slightly easier. But I had to be cautious with descent to the seventh station.

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I also followed a 360-m path to the Amaryo Falls viewing platform before taking the chair lift. While sitting on the chair lift, I realised I had left my walking poles before getting on the chair lift. The staff told me to get back to pick up my poles. I therefore had a free scenic ride! Before taking the 3:20 pm cable car, I had a quick lunch as I was hungry and thirsty. I was tempted to hike to see the Momiji Falls known for the foliage. But after walking for 20 minutes, I decided not to go. I was afraid I might have already done too much.

September 24 Abashiri & Lake Notoro

My second destination was the Lake Notoro to see “coral grass”. I took the 7:50am bus to return to the Kamikawa station and waited for almost two hours for the 10:24 train to Abashiri. Then I waited for over an hour for a bus to Lake Notoro (640 yen) which would depart after 1:30pm. By the time I reached the hotel Kagaryi by the grass field, I was able to check in. The traditional Japanese guesthouse is most comfortable. After leaving my bag in the room, I headed to the field which is opposite the guesthouse. I went to the onsen before having a sumptuous dinner at 6 pm. What a treat!

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September 25 Shiretoko National Park

I set off after having a big breakfast at Kagaryi. The bus at 8:53 am took me to Abashiri train station. The train departed at 10:20 am and arrived at Shiretoro-Shari station around 11 am. I caught a connecting bus to Utoro Onsen at 11:15 am (1,650 yen). I originally booked Shiretoro Village which is 15 minutes’ walk from the bus station. On arrival, I found I could not walk with two small but heavy backpacks. Hence, I simply went to stay at the Bon’s Home with good reviews close to the bus station. The owner is very helpful and polite. I ended up paying 7,800 yen for accommodation, breakfast and dinner. On reflection, I thought I had made a good decision as I lost no time to start my exploration. Once I put down my backpack, I returned to the bus station to take a bus to the Natoinal Park (1,400 yen for a bus ticket).

Shiretoko National Park a World Heritge Site covers most of the Shiretoko Peninsula with an area of 386 sq km at the northeastern tip of the island of Hokkaido. Most of the peninsula is only accessible on foot or by boat. It has an estimated population of 500 brown bears. It is also home of many birds such as Steller’s sea eagle and white-tailed eagle, and marine animals such as spotted seal, orca and sperm whale. It has a hot springs waterfall called Kamuiwakka Falls.

I arrived at the entrance of the Five Lakes just before 1 pm. I had to pay 250 yen for taking the 3-km Five Lake trail and attend a mandatory briefing on safety measures to be taken to protect brown bears as well as hikers. I began the hike just before 1:30 pm. At Lake No 3, I met a nice couple from Hong Kong who kindly gave me a lift to the visitor centre instead of taking the scheduled bus. As a result, I had time to take a 2-km trail to see Furepe no Taki Falls near the Visitor Centre. I took the last bus at 4:45pm back to Utoro.

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In the evening, I joined a 2-hour night wildlife trip. I saw a bear, plenty of deer and a fox. I had a great day!

September 25 Shiretoko National Park & Kushiro

My original plan would be to take the 9:30am bus to get a train at Shari to Kushiro followed by another train to Nemuro. But when I passed by a shop offering a 3-hour boat ride at 9am to Cape Shiretoko for 9500 yen, I decided to take the cruise. The 3-hour cruise was cut short to two hours owing to strong winds and waves and I got a refund of 3000 yen. Anyway, I was pleased to see the 200-m high sea cliffs, numerous sea caves, spectacular rock formations, several waterfalls and got a glimpse of the plains, gorges and valleys, forests and plains, and mountain ranges. We also saw a bear and a school of tuna.

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As the cruise was over by 11am, I was able to walk up the Oronco Rock for a panoramic view of Utoro and the sea. I took the 12:30pm bus to Shari and spent three hours waiting at the train station for the train to Kushiro. For some unkown reasons, the train went very slowly at times and eventually arrived at Kushiro half an hour late. The last train to Nemuro had gone. So I had to spend a night at Kushiro. But all the hotels were fully booked. After walking to five hotels near the station, I gave up and eventually paid 31000 yen to stay at Crown Plaza by the cruise terminal! Someone told me that they had some events for youth and all hotels were full. Ridiculous!

September 27 A Frustrating Travel Day Kushiro – Nemuro

Today was a frustrating day. I planned to take the 11:15 am train to Nemuro. Around 11 am, the board announced the train was cancelled. I asked the station staff who told me to wait for the next one at 1:25 pm. I went to a bakery and had a coffee and cake. When I planned to go to the platform, the board indicated the train was cancelled. I was told to wait for the next one at after 4pm. I returned to the bakery and waited. Nothing I could do! The train departed on schedule but was delayed when a deer ran across the track. Later it stopped again. It was 7:20 when it arrived at Nemuro (half an hour late). It was raining and I walked almost half an hour before reaching the guesthouse. The owner is a young America who was able to tell me that they had an earth quake the day before and had heavy rain for two days. As a result, they had to check the tracks and repair as necessary. I could understand the reason for the delay. But I could not understand why the railway management / staff at the control gate could not put up a board/notice in simple English informing non-Japanese passengers what was going on.

September 28 A Frustrating Travel Day Nemuro – Kushiro

I want to travel to Nemuro at the eastern end of the train line in Hokkaido. From Nemuro, I can visit Cape Nosappu located at the easternmost point of Japan. It is the earliest place in Japan to see the sunrise on mainland Japan and home to the oldest lighthouse in Hokkaido built in 1872. It is also famous for being able to see the Northern Territories including Shikotan, Kunashiri, Etorofu and Habomai Islands. I have been planning to visit these islands which are now under Russian sovereignty and have been a point of conflict between Russia and Japan. Standing at Cape Nosappu, I can understand the Japanese frustration and sorrow for losing these territories to Russia after WWII. All politics!

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September 29 Kushiro – Sapporo – Otaru

I took the express train from Kushiro to Sapporo (8:32 am-12:45pm). After checking in JR Inn next to the station after 3 pm, I was able to take a train to revisit Otaru. The sun was setting and most tourists had gone. Few shops except the eateries were open. I had a deluxe seafood bowl for 4800 yen with sea urchins and toro before taking the 6:30 train back to Sapporo.

September 30 – Lake Toya & Noborebutsu

Today, I took a 2-hour train to Lake Toya which is a volcanic caldera lake. It is part of “ToyaCaldera and Usu Volcano Global Geopark”. I had to take a 25-minute bus to Toyako Onsen. I enjoyed my peaceful promenade walk, taking a footbath in a hot spring before visiting the pleasant and peaceful. Mt Yoteisan was half hidden in the cloud. I visited the Toya-Usu UNESCO Global Geopark which has excellent illustrations. I took a short walk behind the museum where traces of disasters of the 2000 eruptions with damaged buildings and roads are visible. I took the 2:55 pm bus back to the train station and took a train to Noborebutsu at 3:30pm

By the time I arrived at Noborebutsu, the bus to the onsen had left. Then three other Japanese heading to the onsen asked me to join a pool taxi. I gladly jumped into the taxi and arrived at the onsen before 4:30 pm.Instead of paying 350 yen for the bus, I only paid 670 yen for a shared taxi. Wonderful. I walked quickly to the Hell Valley as the sun was setting. The landscape is impressive. I spent almost an hour in peace as most tourists had gone. I took the 6:25pm bus to the station and managed to

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October 1 Biei & Furano

Today was my last day to use my train pass in Hokkaido. I took the 8am train from Sapporo to Biei via Asahikawa and then a local bus to the Shirogane Blue Pond. The pond is fairly small with a large crowd. I stayed for more than an hour before taking 12:16pm bus to Shirogane Hot Spring to see the Shirahige Waterfall with a truss bridge. Both the Pond and the Waterfall are worth seeing.

I took a bus back to the Biei train station and waited a while for the 2:19pm train to Furano which is famous for its lavender and flower fields. But the lavender season was over and it was difficult to move around without a car. At the station I discover that another local train would be leaving for Takikawa at 4:28pm and arriving at Sapporo around 6pm. This would be much faster than the route Furano – Asahikawa – Sapporo. Also I would see different areas. So I only had time to take a short walk near the station and had a drink in a nice new hostel called Tomar. the train ride was a nice surprise: the train with purple decor inside has a nostalgic feel! The sun was setting over the valley. It turned out to be a scenic train ride. Life is always full of nice surprises if one is flexible and adventurous!

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Nowadays, I often travel for meeting my family and friends and reunions. This time, a friend would celebrate his 35th birthday on 27 April in Tokyo . As spring is a great time to see flowers in Japan, I took this opportunity to visit a few flower parks before joining my friends in Tokyo, Kamakura and Karuizawa.

Tokyo 23 – 29 April

I took a late morning flight and landed in the Narita Airport, Tokyo around 4:30 pm. The immigration service was very efficient (unlike the bad experience in Osaka last November) and I was on a bus heading to Shinjuku at 5:20 pm. I checked in a WPU Hotel which is very convenient and close to meeting points of the two day trips I had joined.

On April 24, I took a minibus tour (only nine passengers) to Mt Fuji on a rainy cold day. At the first stop – Fuji Motosuko Resort, we were given only an hour to visit a flower park known for Phlox subulata (ground pink). We paid an entrance fee of yen 1,000. While most tourists look for sunny days for selfies, I don’t mind all weathers: it is more atmospheric and moody with drizzle, mist and an overcast sky. The next stop was a spot for a postcard view of Mt Fuji. As it was raining, there was no view at all. We left after five minutes and stopped for lunch. All of us rushed in a mini-supermarket for bento / cup noodles / sandwich. Thereafter we were taken to the Gotemba Premier Outlets for two and a half hours! I headed to Konohana no Yu, a hot spring day spa which open-air baths overlook Mt Fuji. Though there was no view, the spring water proved to be good for my bones and muscles. At 4:30pm, we headed back to Tokyo. Most people on the minibus were disappointed. I took things easy enjoying the journey through mist, rain, spring green leaves and flowers.

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On 25 April, I joined a tour to Hitachi Seaside Park in the morning and Ashikaga Flower Park in the afternoon. We set off at 7:30 am and did not return to Shinjuku till 6 pm. The bus was full with over 40 passengers. It took two hours to get to the seaside park: locals as well as tourists all come to see hemophilia. I found the crowd horrifying: I ran into people every single step. As I walked slowly I spent two and a half hours in a small corner of this expansive park enjoying the blue and purple hemophilia, yellow canola flower and watching people and their dog.

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We had a bento/lunch box in the bus and arrived at Ashikaga famous for wisteria and rhododendron (azalea) at this time of the year. I spent a whole day in this park on my own in 2019. This time I was only given an hour to see the park. How could one really enjoy and appreciate the flowers when being surrounded by thousands of visitors? As a professional and flexible tourist, I made best use of my time revisiting the old and gigantic wisteria trees. The azalea was in full bloom with gorgeous colours. The park is indeed an extravaganza and the bright and colourful azaleas made me dizzy.

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On 26 April, I moved to a hotel in Tsukiji where the famous fish market was once located. As I could not check in till 3 pm, I strolled in the area and had a fish bowl for lunch. I discovered that the Tsukiji Honganji was celebrating from 26 to 29 April the 850th anniversary of Honen (1173-1263) and the 800th anniversary of the founding of the Jodo Sect (Pure Land) of Buddhism in Japan. On the way back to the hotel, I stayed in temple and attended a ceremony. The hall was full and as the scripture was written in Chinese, I could follow the chanting. When I got back to the hotel after 3 pm, Alice also arrived from Hong Kong. We walked around Ginza with a view to finding a nintendo switch (a birthday present for Alan) to no avail. We googled and decided to take the metro to Shibuya which is a vibrant area full of young people. It was an eye-opening experience for me to see this famous game shop in a hip area. Alice and I had a beer after we accomplished our mission before joining Robert, Alan, Reiko, and Tracy for an excellent 8-course dinner at Habukatei in Shinjuku-ku.

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Today was the big day for Alan. Robert, Alice and I spent a relaxing and most enjoyable afternoon to experience the neighbourhood in Omotesado Hills. I like the leafy, trendy, and relaxing atmosphere. We began with lunch at Afternoon Tea, an institution in the area famous for cakes. Then we visited a boutique shop to buy watches. We ended up in another shop buying pottery and drinking sake! In the evening, we had a sumptuous 8-course dinner in a French restaurant to celebrate Alan’s birthday. What a great day!

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On 28 April, I spent a day with friends in Kamakura. We visited a friend’s holiday home in Enoshima with a lovely sea view on one side and Mt Fuji on a clear day from the other side. After spending a leisure morning strolling around and having a Thai lunch, we headed to Genjiyama Park to meet architect and ‘minka‘ expert Yoshihiro Takishita. His passion for wood and preservation of minka are admirable. We spent two hours talking about architecture, minka and art. Inspiring! We returned to Tokyo and had beef for dinner. But I had too much meat which upset my stomach.

Karuizawa 29 April – 1 May

I got up early from a sleepless night and attended a morning ceremony at Tsukiji Honganji from 7 to 8 am. Only a small number of Buddhists came and I once again could follow the chanting. The setting, clothes, decorations, music and rituals are different. I returned to the hotel doing nothing till I checked out at 11 am. I went straight to the Tokyo train station to wait for the 2 pm train to Karuizawa as I was in no mood to walk around. Tracy and I arrived in Karuizawa before 3:30pm. This was my second visit and I walked to the Kumobo Pond which still looked lovely. At 7:30pm, Robert, Alan, Tracy and I had another sumptuous dinner with wine, grilled beef and chicken at a nice western restaurant called Pyrenees.

We started the day on 30 April with drizzle. Despite the weather, we had a great busy day. We started off with a brunch finishing 1.5kg of soba in a typical noodle restaurant in Ginza shopping street in old Karuizawa. Then we visited the Shiraito Waterfall measuring 3m in height and 70m in width, in a lush forest. The next must-see is the Kumanokotai Shrine located at 1200m at the border of Nagano and Gunma Prefectures. I saw three elegant dogs that I have never seen before . The last stop was the Stone Church built with stone and glass in 1988 by American architect Kendrick Bangs Kellogg in honour of Uchimura Kanzo, the Japanese Christian evangelist who founded the Nonchurch Movement in 1901. It is now a popular wedding venue. We were delighted to enjoy a nice cup of coffee in Bakery and Restaurant Sawamura that was opened in 2015. In the evening, Robert invited Tracy and I to his new vacation home which is a dream house! We had delicious shabu shabu paired with nice white and red wine. A great day!

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The weather on my last day in Karuizawa was bad, cold and miserable. I took the 8:04 am bus to Kusatsu Onsen in Gunma Prefecture which is one of Japan’s three most famous onsens (the other two are Arima Onsen in Hyogo Prefecture and Gero Onsen in Gifu Prefecture). Kusatsu Onsen boasts the largest flowing water volume of all hots springs. The water is one of Japan’s most acidic. It is a small town with lots of hotels and eateries.

The first place I visited was the Kosenji Temple located up in the hill above Yubatake. The temple celebrates the glory of Kusatsu Onsen and has many monuments including a famous Edo poet Issa Kobayashi (1763-1827). Once again, I paid respect to Kobo Daishi here. I walked around the amazing Yubatake. Then I wandered around the narrow lanes, sampling the local pudding before finding my way to enjoy a soak in Ohtaki-no-yu. It charges a high entrance fee of yen 1100. But I am not impressed and only stayed for an hour. The onsen experience in Mt Fuji is much better. When I left, it poured with rain. As I had no umbrella, I took shelter in the cafe having a drink and noodles for half an hour. I planned to take the 2:50 pm express bus back to Karuizawa and decided to walk in the rain to the bus terminal. The rain was so heavy when I got back to Karuizawa. Having got myself an umbrella, I went shopping buying a T-shirt, a pair of pants and a windbreaker in a small local shop run by an elderly lady. She looked so happy to see me and I spent almost an hour there! A highlight of my day!

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May 2 Tokyo- Hong Kong

My plane would depart at 5 pm. I decided to take the 8:17am train to Ueno so that I could visit the garden or a museum in the morning. It worked out well and I spent two hours looking at the special exhibition “Honen and the Pure Land” in the Tokyo National Museum, to mark the 800th anniversary of the founding of the Jodo sect. The exhibition is indeed impressive tracing the history of the Jodo sect through an extensive collection of national treasures and cultural properties owned by Jodo sect temples across Japan. The oldest exhibits dated back to the 13th century. They include invaluable notebooks, illustrated biographies, paintings, sculptures, calligraphy and Buddhist scriptures etc. Japanese are perfectionists: the meticulous way they have preserved these Buddhist treasures is most admirable. As a Buddhist, I could have spent a whole day with an audio guide to better understand the Jodo sect and to fully appreciate the excellent exhibits. But I had to leave around midday to take the Keisei Skyliner to the airport. Everything went smoothly and I landed in Hong Kong as scheduled at 9 pm.