Shuilu Fahui China 10-19 October 2025

The Shuilu Fahui  水陸法會(Water and Land Dharma Assembly) is the most elaborate Buddhist ceremony in Chinese Buddhism. The full name of the ceremony is the Fajie Shengfan Shuilu Pudu Dazhai Shenghui (法界聖凡水陸普度大齋勝會), which translates to “Water and Land Universal Deliverance and Grand Feast Assembly for Saints and Ordinary Sentient Beings in the Dharma Realm”. Performed with the aim of facilitating the nourishment and ultimate liberation of all sentient beings in saṃsāra and lasting from 7 to 49 days, this fahui  it is often credited as one of the greatest rituals that require great resources of the monastics and financial funding of lay supporters.  

The ceremony is attributed to the Emperor Wu of Liang 梁武帝 (502-549) who was inspired after having a dream in which a monk advised him to organise a ceremony to help all beings living on land an in the seas to be surfeited from their suffering. The rituals itself was composed by leading monastics under the guidance of a Chan Buddhist master Baozhi (5th-6th century). The liturgy received further edits and addendums in later periods during the Song dynasty (960-1279) and Ming dynasty (1368-1644). The ritual combines features of Chinese operatic tradition (including a wide range of instrumental music and vocal performances), the citation  of various sutras and repentance rites from both the Mahayana rituals and esoteric Vajrayana practices (including recitation of esoteric mantras of Buddhist divinities and visualization). Hence, the The Shuilu Fahui has been seen as a union of the various traditions in Chinese Buddhism such as Chan, Pure Land, Esoteric, Tiantai and Huayan.

The entire ritual is typically structurally divided into two types of rituals: those conducted at the Inner Altar (內壇) and those conducted at the Outer Altars  (外壇). The Inner Altar is traditionally considered the most sacred with limited access, where the core of the entire liberation rite is performed. It comprises 24 smaller alters: ten for the higher beings and and fourteen for the lower beings. Each alter has their own classification ranging from other buddhas, bodhisattvas, sages, and celestial protectors down to the lower beings dwelling in the six realms of rebirth: lesser devas, demigods, humans, animals, hungry ghosts, hell beings and deceased individuals. Each altar has a set of paper plaques decorated with paper flowers and talismans which contain the core essence of the invited spirit and a painting that described who each of the beings are along with a verse taken from the Inner Altar ritual text. Tables are set out for the monastics and sponsors to use, complete with kneelers, the ritual text for reference, a handheld censer, and plates of flowers to use when inviting beings. Offerings of food, beverages and incense, chanting and reciting of secret mantras and various sūtras, transmitting precepts and bowing in repentance on behalf of the higher and lower beings are the core procedures in the Inner Altar.

The Outer Altars consisting of separate halls in the monastery/temple, are open to all participants to help create merit for the work being done in the Inner Altar. Typically this group consists of a total of six or seven altars each focusing on different scriptures and rituals. The Repentance Ritual of the Emperor of Liang 梁皇寶懺 and other rituals such as gongfo zhaitian  (供佛齋天) rites where offerings are made to the Triple Gem and deities and tantric Yujia Yanhou (瑜伽燄口) are usually performed in a Grand Hall/Great Altar (大壇). The Lotus Sutra, the Amitabha Sutra, the Medicine Buddha Sutra, Suramgama Sutra, Avatamsaka Sutra and various sutras are recited together with associated devotional practices in the Lotus Altar  (法華壇), the Pure Land Altar (淨土壇), the Yaoshi Altar (藥師壇) the Lengyan Altar (楞嚴壇), the Huayan Altar (華嚴壇) and Various Sutras Altar (諸經壇) respectively.  

In July 2023, I formally took refuge in the Three Gem (the Buddha, Dharma and Sangha) with Venerable Hin Shuen of the Centre for Spiritual Progress to Great Awakening (SPGA). The centre has been collaborated with the Shaolong Temple 紹隆禪寺in Rugao Jiangsu to organise a Shuilu Fahui  from 11 to 18 October. Some 60 Buddhists from the centre joined Ven Hin Shuen and four venerables from SPGA to participate in the ceremony. This was the first time I attended this special ceremony as a sponsor and took part in the procedures in the Inner Altar.

October 10: Hong Kong – Shanghai – Shaolong Temple

We took an early CX flight and departed Hong Kong after 9:30 am for Shanghai. Then we had a three-hour bus ride to the temple where we stayed for nine nights. Located in a rural area, the place is quiet with comfortable accommodation. Each room has toilet with heated water. I shared a room with Lisa and Susan.

October 11 – 18 Shuilu Fahui

Some 80 monastics performed 22 foshi 佛事 (ritual/ceremony) over the entire period. I as a sponsor was kept busy joining events that took place both in the Inner and Outer Altars.  e had breakfast at 7 am, lunch at 11:30am and dinner at 4:30pm. On five evening (from 5:30 to about 11-11:30pm on11-14, and 17 October), we had Yujia Yanhou typically performed to nourish and liberate hungry ghosts, to promote the lifespans of the living and to avert calamities and prevent disasters. Since taking up the HKU Master of Counselling Course in 2022, I have watched several times this tantric ritual that combines features of Chinese operatic tradition (including a wide range of instrumental music as well as vocal performances such as solo deliveries, antiphonal and choral singing), recitation of sutras as well as esoteric Vajrayana practices (including mandala offerings, recitation of esoteric mantras, execution of mudras and visualization practices involving identifying oneself with a divinity).

October 11- We all attended the ceremony to purify the entire monastery space  in the afternoon. When it was finished, the outer and Inner Altars were opened. At 5:30pm, we had the first of the five performances of Yujia Yanhou in the Yuan Man Hall 圓滿殿.   Today, I still find the rituals, mantras and countless mudras (symbolic hand gestures) fascinating.  The music and chanting by 60-80 monks were deafening, powerful and fearsome!

October 12– All participants gathered at the Great Altar to recite the Repentance Ritual of the Emperor of Liang the whole day and watched Yujia Yanhou in the evening.

October 13– Today, the ritual at the Inner Altar began with a series of preparatory work, including setting up the altar as well as purifying the ritual space. I entered the Inner Altar for the first time at 8am together with about 20 sponsors. A series of elaborate rituals conducted by three elder monastics, took place here for five days. The monastics set up the boundary and performed ritual purification (啟壇結界) [Through the recitation of secret mantras, a ritual purification and boundary was placed around the Inner Altar to protect it from negative influences, allowing the rite to progress without outside hindrances, and for all beings to be invited without obstruction]

In the afternoon, the invitations were issued and banners were hung up (發符懸幡) [A ritual writ of invitation describing the intent of the main donors that the liberation rite was occurring at the temple was issued by the presiding masters. This was done in the form of a paper horseman who was tasked with issuing the invite. This paper horseman was then burned outside the temple premises] A giant banner (for the higher beings) and lanterns (for the lower beings) were  raised on flagpoles, and a paper effigy sentry was erected outside the Inner Altar, and a ceremonial bulletin announcing the liberation rite and who the sponsors were ritually marked by the temple abbot using a calligraphy brush]

In the evening, Yujia Yanhou was performed in the Yuan Man Hall.

October 14– In the morning, we recited text inviting Saintly beings to come (請上堂) [10 tables for these beings] and Fangsheng  放生 (Life/Merit Release) was performed in the afternoon.

October 15– Making offerings to the saintly beings (供上堂) [Offerings of incense, food, flowers, and other delicacies were made].

October 16– We had to be at the Inner Altar by 5am for Issuing petitions for amnesty (告赦) [A petition is issued specifically to Brahma, Sakra, deities from the lower realms and locality gods to grant reprieve to lower beings to allow them to be present for the liberation rite. Another paper horseman is ritually burned and sent off]. After breakfast, we returned to the Inner Altar to recite Ksitigarbha Bodhisattva Purvapranidhana Sutra.

Inviting the mundane beings (請下堂) was issued in the afternoon [As in the previous invitation, a cloth bridge is set up to welcome lower beings into the Inner Altar. Esoteric mantras are recited to bring the beings from the lower and hell realms to be present for the ritual] There were 14 Tables.

Precepts for the netherworldly beings (幽冥戒) were cited in the evening [The presiding masters invoked teachings to the invited lower beings. The registered ancestral or deceased relations of the main sponsors would also ritually receive the precepts by proxy]

October 17– All participants were at the Yuan Man Hall to make offerings. In the afternoon we made offerings to the mundane beings (供下堂) in the Inner Altar.

We had the last Yujia Yanhou performed in the Yuan Man Hall. The abbot of the monastery kindly arranged fireworks. It was miracle that rain came after the fireworks. We went to bed after midnight!

October 18– Final offering of completion (圓滿香) [A final offering of incense, food, drink, and flowers are made to all invited beings]

In the afternoon, we had the last and most fascinating procedure – Seeing off the Guests (送聖) [Each of their effigies in the Inner Altar (in the form of paper plaques) are paraded on the temple grounds and collectively placed onto a paper boat and burned, symbolizing their ascent to the Pure Land. The burning of the boat serves as an aid to visualizing the beings ascent and also serves to mark the conclusion of the liberation rite. The procession was accompanied by an orchestral band].

It was a grey day with occasionally raindrops. As I had problem walking fast, I did not join the official procession led by the monastics to see off the guests. The temple was deserted when the party left. I decided to walk around to take photos. By the time I stepped out of the temple, I saw the party returning! I watched from a distance the burning of the paper horsemen, effigies, a boat etc. Towards the end, I suddenly saw very dark and thick smoke/cloud rising but  quickly disappearing into the sky above. I noticed a few raindrops falling thereafter. Were these auspicious signs?

The ceremony came to an end. We lined up to give red packets to all monastics that had taken part in the ceremony. We took pictures with the abbot of Shaolong Temple and the venerable from Hong Kong.  The abbot said this ritual would be performed again next year. I am sure many of us would return. In the evening, we tidied up and cleaned our room. I packed my bag and had an early night.

October 19 Shanghai -Hong Kong

After breakfast, we set off for Shanghai Pudong Airport at 8 am. We had a smooth ride and I checked in at noon. I was able to have lunch with a friend from Shanghai at the airport. The plane took off at 2:30pm and I landed in HK after 5pm. 

Remarks (to add)

I love autumn foliage. In August, I joined a Hong Kong tour to visit Northeast China  from 26/9-3/10/25. The tour was canceled. As a result, I decided to  spend five days in Tian Zhen Yuan 天真園 (TZY) to experience the Tai Chi  太極culture and two days with friends in Beijing.

26-30/9/2025 Tian Zhen Yuan Tianjin 天津

Catherine and I departed Hong Kong at 10:20 am and arrived at Beijing Tai Hing Airport around noon. A driver from TZY met us on arrival and we arrived at the centre before 3 pm. TZY is an institution dedicated to manifestation, propagation and education of traditional Chinese culture rooted in the Tai Chi philosophy. It was co-founded in 2001 by Xing Qiling and Cui Ailing, the fourth-generation successors of Li’s Tai Chi.  Located  in Chengquan Town, Wuqing District, TZY covers an area of 180 acres. The architectural layout is based on the Neijing diagram of the Yellow Emperor’s Classic of Internal Medicine. As a national intangible cultural heritage project, TZY has established a five-in-one teaching system of “civil, martial, medical, agricultural and art”. It also carries out diversified courses such Tai Chi martial arts, Chinese medicine health preservation, calligraphy, and painting art. Catherine who has problems with her legs and difficulties in walking, has highly recommended the treatment she had during her brief stay in July. I am curious and hope the treatment could help my hip problem.  

On arrival we met two instructors: Miss Lau,  a volunteer from Hong Kong who has been staying in TZY since 2019, and Mr Wang. Miss Lau showed  us around for an hour and a half before dinner. We followed a structured routine in TZY: exercise at 6:30am with Miss Lau; breakfast at 7:30pm; two lessons starting at 10:20am; lunch at noon; two lessons at 2 pm; treatment at 4-6pm and dinner at 6 pm.  I had  an enjoyable full schedule for four days.

Tai Chi martial art 太極拳. Catherine and I had a total of six sessions with Miss Lau. We took the first stage of the foundation course that comprises three stages. We learned and practised four simple movements. I hope to complete the foundation course on my next visit to TZY probably early next year if possible.

Tai Chi Movements with Ruler / Stick 太極尺and Balls 太極球. Mr Wang taught us basic walking movements, how to practise with a Tai Chi ruler that can also be used for massage purpose as well. We played with three types of balls: a medium-sized Tai Chi wooden ball and a small ball with our hands, and a football with our feet. All these movements would help coordination, concentration, flexibility resulting in improvements of the functioning of internal organs and chi circulations. I am clumsy and inflexible!

Tai Chi Scent Making. We had three sessions with Miss Lau on scent making using different techniques. Though clumsy, I was able to accomplish the assignment creating different shapes of scent. An engaging experience! 

Tai Chi Tea Tasting. I had a tea session on 30/9 with Mr Wang after Catherine had left. Cherie who comes from Hong Kong,joined. Wang prepared tea and applied energy to the tea when blessing it. It was interesting to watch his hand movements and the tea tasted different each time. Cherie and I also applied our energy following his instructions. Mr Wang then shared the taste he experienced from the tea from me and Cherie. An amazing experience!

Treatment

I have both hip and knee problems. So I had four treatments with Dr Lee who is a qualified doctor specialized in heart disease before taking up Chinese medicine. Then she came to TZY four years ago and now applies Tai Chi and classic internal medicine approach to treatment. According to her diagnosis, my body is “cold and wet” thus preventing proper circulation. I showed her x-ray of hip bones. She believes treatment using internal Chinese medicine (such as  artemisia argyi – silvery wormwood or Chinese mugwort), and skills including gua sha (scraping therapy), massage 推拿, acupuncture 針炙etc could improve overall circulation, muscles etc could help instead of going for hip replacement. Dr Lee applied Chinese mugwort 艾草and thorough massage with a ginger cream for four days on my back, tummy, hip, leg and feet.  She also applied scraping therapy刮痧 on my back and side of my right leg with more serious hip problem. I indeed felt better after treatment.     

Beijing 30/9 – 3/10

30/9. After having lunch at TZY, I had a comfortable ride to Beijing. This time, I chose a hotel next to the Tuanjie Lake 團結湖station close to Sanlitun 三里屯 close to the second ring road. After relaxing for a few hours, I had a leisure walk through the Tuanjie Lake Park. I had a wonderful dinner with Qiao whom I have known for some 20 years. We last met in Zhuhai before Covid and were happy to catch up.

1/10 National Day. I decided to revisit Yonghe Temple 雍和宮. As it was the National Day and a public holiday, there was not much traffic on the second ring road. Instead of taking the metro, I took a taxi instead. The comfortable short ride only cost RMB20. The temple had lots of people but not over-crowded.

Located at the northeast corner of Beijing City, Yonghe Temple is considered the largest and most perfectly preserved lamasery in China. It was built initially in 1694 as the residence of Emperor Yongzheng (1678-1735) when he was a prince who reigned as the fourth Qing emperor from 1722 to 1735. In 1744 the Qing Dynasty formally changed the status of the residence to that of a lamasery which has since become the national centre of Lama administration. 

The architecture and art work of the temple is unique with a combination of Han Chinese and Tibetan styles. Arranged along a north-south central axis, it has a length of 480m covering an area of 66,400 sq metres. The memorial gateways, red walls and stone lions are symbols showing its origin as the dwelling of an Imperial Family member. It has three prominent Paifangs 牌樓 namely Zhaotai Gate the main gate with three archways, Yonghe Gate (Gate of Clarity and Prosperity) and five main halls separated by courtyards in addition to the common temple features such as a Drum Tower on the western side and a Bell tower on the eastern side. In front of these towers are two octagonal Stele Pavilions with words by Emperor Qianlong carved in the stele explaining the traditional and historical reasons for changing the dwellings into a lama temple. An ancient copper cooking vessel standing on a white marble stone made in 1747 has high artistic value is said to be among ‘the three rarest things in Beijing’.

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Among the dozen halls, the most prominent five main halls are-

Hall of the Heavenly Kings 天王殿 (Tianwangdian) with the statues of four Heavenly Kings located on both sides of the inner palace walls and a smiling Maitreya Buddha in the centre.

Hall of Harmony and Peace 雍和宫(Yonghegong) (the main building of the temple) with three bronze Buddhas of Three Ages – Sakyamuni (the Present) in the middle, Dipankara (the Past) on the right and Maitreya (the Future) on the left and 18 Arhats on three sides.

Hall of Everlasting Protection永佑殿 (Yongyoudian) (formerly the Emperor’s living quarters and where his coffin was placed after his death) with a statue of Bhaisajya Buddha where sacrificial offerings are made to it.

Hall of the Wheel of the Law 法輪殿 (Falundian) (formerly the dwelling of the Emperor’s wives) with a large statue of Tsong Kha-pa, founder of the Geluk School of Tibetan Buddhism and the Five-Hundred- Arhat-Hill, a carving made of red sandalwood with statues of the Arhats made from five different metals (gold, silver, copper, iron, and tin). The structure contains the architectural styles of both Tibetan and Han Nationalities. It now functions as a place for reading scriptures and conducting religious ceremonies.

Hall of Boundless Happiness 萬福閣 (Wanfuge) with an 26-metre tall statute of Maitreya Buddha carved from a single piece of white sandalwood and placed on a white marble base (18m above ground and 8 metre underground). This was a gift from the seventh Dalai Lama to Emperor Qianlong. Tens of thousands of Buddhas are also displayed along every level.

The bronze statues of the Buddhas of the Three Ages, the Five-Hundred-Arhat-Hill and the white sandalwood statue of Maitreya Buddha are the three fabulous artworks of the temple. I am glad that after pursuing two Buddhist courses during the Covid period and have taken refuge since 2023, I now have more understanding about Buddhism as a whole and the three traditions of Buddhism. Hence, I can better appreciate the history, symbols, structure, layout and  architecture, as well as the underlying meanings and significance of this unique temple. But there was simply too much to see and absorb. I was surprised to find many young worshipers in the crowd.  

After having spent two hours in Yonghe Temple, I left after 2 pm skipping lunch and taking a bus direct to Guanji Temple 廣濟寺 in Xicheng District.  I had a most wonderful ride along Changan Street passing by Tiananmen and Beihai Park and watching lots of local people on the street.  Quite a festival atmosphere! Guanji Temple was originally built in the Jin dynasty (1115-1234 CE). But the present temple was completed during the Ming dynasty (1368-1644). it is the headquarters of the Buddhist Association of China founded by Master Xuyun (1840?-1959)who is the father of modern Buddhism. My friend Qiao highly recommended me to visit this temple. When I arrived around 3:15 pm, I saw a queue outside the main hall and was told to stand in the queue.  I hesitated as I intended to explore the temple first. A few elderly ladies told me to stay in order to keep my place. Later on I knew what they meant: there was only a limited number of worshipers that could be admitted to join the monks for the evening practice. They helped me to download the sutras from internet. The monks led the chanting for almost 45 minutes. I managed to followed without problem: the procedures were similar to those I followed in Hong Kong. But the sutra reading part was much longer. To be able to joint the evening practice with senior monks of the temple was a blessing. As soon as the practice was over, we had to leave the temple. All visitors were out by 4:30pm. What a special experience!

I headed straight to Sanlitun and went to a highly recommended vegetarian restaurant Qing Chun Perma  慶春撲門for dinner. I had a special soup and black truffle fried rice for dinner. This delicious dinner only cost me over RMB100. Incredible!

I strolled around Taikoo Li Sanlitun, a shopping centre developed by Hong Kong’s Swire Properties. It comprises 19 modern buildings on two sites with upscale designer shops and eateries blending with art, music, culture, fashion, F&B and shopping. I saw young people enjoying themselves! I walked back to my hotel exhausted and had a good sleep.

2/10. I had a relaxing day meeting with Wendi and Qiao. Wendi, a young lady from Beijing who took the HKU Master of Buddhist Counselling course in 2022-23, returned to Beijing last year. I contacted her and we were able to meet up. She lives not far from Fragrant Hill. So we decided to have lunch at  Fragrant Hill Hotel 香山飯店  followed by tea in the garden in the afternoon. Wendi is an intelligent and well-travelled lady in her 20s. We had a great time catching up.

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I returned to Beijing and had a vegetarian hot-pot dinner in Tibetan style with Qiao not far from the hotel. Another wonderful experience!

3/10. I took a local train shortly before 9:30 am before switching to the Tai Hing airport express (40 RMB). The whole journey took just over an hour. Very efficient. I had to spend some four hours at the airport before the flight took off. I had a pleasant flight and landed in Hong Kong around 6pm.

Remarks (to add)

D10 Tashkurgan – Kashi (300km)

We set off at 9am and had two nice photo stops to take photos of Mt Muztaga and the grassland. The panorama photo of the snow-capped mountains and the lake was taken with drone by our driver Wang.

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On our way back to Kashi, we would visit the Oytak Glacier Park 奥依塔克冰川公园 after lunch. We turned off G314 driving 30 km to reach the glacier park through an amazing area with deep red mountains and cliffs.

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At the visitor centre, we had to take a short ride on another bus and walked 1.5 km uphill to reach a viewing platform. Unfortunately owing to a landslide, the platform was closed. We could not get a closer look of this glacier. We were back in Kashi after 6 pm.  

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D11 Kashi

We had another leisure day in Kashi. We first visited the Kashi Old Town喀什老城 which is an ancient city with over 2,000 years of history. It is the historical centre of Uyghur culture, trade, religion and art. I enjoyed looking at the ruins in this old town.

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Then we walked across the road to the Kashi old town scenic area 喀什古城景区modeled on the old town. It is all about shopping! After lunch, we walked across the road to reach the mosque 艾提尕尔清真寺and explore the area around it. I walked slowly on my own and had a most refreshing pomegranate juice (15 RMB). I reached the Rainbow Alley彩虹巷 before walking back to the mosque to meet up with the group at 4 pm. We had a quick tour of the mosque which is smaller than I have thought. I wonder whether it is still in use: it looks more like a museum!

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Bing, Ellen, Cynthia, Sam, Roger, Masy and I returned to a popular local restaurant for dinner. We ended up having a feast with roast pigeon, grilled fish, mutton, and red wine. There was a wedding banquet and we were delighted to see the beautiful bride and her family.

D12 Kashi – Aksu City 阿克蘇市 (450km)
We had a long drive today with a stop at Dao Lang 刀郎. We arrived before 4 pm just in time to watch a city-gate opening ceremony with dance and music performance. Dolan culture refers to the dance, music and culture of a tribe of the Uyghurs. We entered the gate and stopped at various places that showcase their life style including iron-making, their house etc. Then we had a guided tour to several museums with exhibitions on populus euphratica and sculpture,  culture life style and musical instruments, and stones from the region.  The area is expansive eco-park with plenty of plants, hundreds of populus euphratica, a lake, an aviary in addition to the museums. I enjoyed the visit and we left about 7 pm. We stayed in Vienna Hotel which is nice and comfortable.

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D13 Aksu City – Kucha 庫車市 (400Km)

We set off at 9 am and had two attractions to visit namely Tianshan Tomur Canyon and Kizil Caves, both World Heritage Properties.

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Tianshan World Heritage Site comprises four components – Tomur, Kalajun-Kuerdening, Bayinbukuke and Bogda, with a total area of 606,833 hectares.  The Tianshan Tomur Scenic Area 托木尔峰大峡谷include the grand canyon, Tagelake Village and Bozidun. This region is described as a “living museum of geological evolution” that displays ancient rock formations and impressive canyons. The Danxia and Yadan landforms feature dramatic red sandstone canyons (Danxia) and unique Yadan geological wonders. It also has rock salt karst landform with salt rivers and 36 giant salt mountains.  

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The grand canyon is a typical fissure gorge stretching 20km in length and approximately 25 in width.  It is composed of three main valleys and 12 tributary valleys.  The scenic area visitor centre provides visitors with transportation to visit the canyon.  We only had time to visit two valleys. First we went to No 4 Valley (Source of Life) where we stayed for an hour. There are six viewing platforms. I managed to climb up and down some 400 steps to reach three platforms which afford wonderful views of the majestic landscape. Then we took a ride to No. 3 Valley and walked along the wide valley floor with close up views of the canyon. Different perspectives! 

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We had a wholesome lunch after the visit before driving to the Kizil Caves. The caves have an important role in Central Asia art and in the Silk Road transmission of Buddhism. They are said to be the earliest major Buddhist cave complex in China with development occurring between the 3^rd and 8^th centuries CE. This complex is associated with the ancient kingdom of Kucha. When the caves were first created, the area of Kucha was following the orthodox Sarvastivadin school of early Buddhism. Other famous sites nearby include the Kizilgaha caves, the Kumtura Caves, Subashi Temple and the Simsim caves.

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There are 236 cave temples in the Kizil Cave complex. Caves were carved into the cliff stretching from east to west for about 2km.  It is said that 135 caves are  still relatively intact. Many of the caves have a central pillar design, whereby pilgrims may cir-cum-ambulate around a central column that often have a niche for a statue of the Buddha. Three other types of caves are also present: square caves, caves “with a colossal image”, and monastic cells. A notable feature of the murals in Kizil is the extensive use of blue pigments. In terms of styles of painting, they are mainly grouped under “Indo-Iranian style I” (delicate tone-on-tone paintings using browns, greens and oranges) and Indo-Iranian Style II”s (strongly contrasted colours and strong line strokes with the use of a vivid lapis-lazuli blue). The art of Kizil Caves is thought to have influenced cave art in Mongao Caves in Dunhuang.

We arrived after 6 pm and had to walk some 700 m to reach the bottom of the cliff. We visited six caves (No. 8, 10, 27, 32, 34 and 38). It is sad to see only fragments of mural paintings remaining in these caves which do not seem to be well preserved. I think the caves in Dunhuang are better preserved.  It was a long drive to Kucha and we did not arrive at the hotel till 10 pm.

D14 Kucha – Bayinbukuke 巴音布魯克 (220km)

We departed at 9 pm. After a relative short drive, we arrived at the Mysterious Tianshan Grand Canyon (or Keziliya Grand Canyon) which is spectacular with reddish-brown cliffs formed by millions of years of natural erosion, featuring oddly-shaped rocks, craggy pinnacles, and deep ravines. It contains an ancient A-ai Grottoes (or Kizil Thousand-Buddha Grottoes) of historical significance which is closed. We had two hours and I walked slowly on my own soaking in the atmosphere.The natural wonders are awesome and the narrowest section is only 0.4 metre wide. After exploring all possible sites en route (less than 2 km I guess), I took a ride back (20 RMB)

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We set off after lunch around 3:30pm for Bayinbukuke (the grassland), a vast scenic area with three main spots: swan homeland, a Tibetan monastery and the famous “nine turns and eighteen bends”. On the way, we had a photo stop at a small beautiful alpine lake.  

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As we did not have much time, the group decided to go straight to the “nine turns and eighteen bends” where one with good luck, can watch  nine suns at sunset. It was cold and windy. When we reached there, things looked promising. Unfortunately it became cloudy and by 8 pm, it was clear there was no chance to watch sunset. We made our own way back to the visitor centre which took one hour on the bus. I was back in the centre after 9:20pm. As a result, we had a late dinner after a long and tiring day.

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D15 Bayinbukuke -Nalati  (200Km)

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We set off leisurely at 10 am and had a scenic drive with a stop at an alpine lake. After lunch, we set off for Nalati Grassland. We had two stops – half an hour at a viewing platform and a hour and a half in the grassland. I confess I do not find anything special about Nalati which has been spoilt by over-tourism.  

D16 Nalati  – Zhaosu 昭蘇 (400km)
We set off at 8:30 am for the Zhaosu county, which is under the administration of Ili Kazakh Autonomous Prefecture and shares a border with Kazakhstan. Zhaosu region is the home of the famous Heavenly Horse 天馬 that Zhang Qian brought back to Emperor Wu after his mission to Xiyu. I love watching the landscape and topography along the highway. Today, I could see golden wheat  along the road side ready for harvest. After lunch, we drove on and arrived at the wetland scenic area around 3pm. There were few birds in the wetland. The show began at 4pm. I took a vantage point watching some 50 majestic Heavenly Horses gathering at the starting point and running in the river. Beautiful animals!

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After the show, we drove another half an hour to the Jade Lake, another small alpine lake formed when a dam for a reservoir was built. The lake with an exquisite blue colour, though smaller than Tianchi, is more pleasant with few tourists. We returned to Zhaosu at 6pm. It was a pleasant day without excessively long drive!

D17 Zhaosu – Yining 伊寧市 (110km)

We had a late start at 10am.  As it was raining, we could not take the scenic mountain route to Yining. Instead,we had to return via highway which took about two hours to reach Yining. We had a nice lunch in a local restaurant serving delicious baked bun with beef. We also ordered two legs of lamb which was tender and delicious!

After lunch, we visited old Yining with a guide. We went into two traditional Uyghur houses, strolled along a residential area and had a homemade ice-cream. After a guided tour for an hour, we watched a cultural performance in a big house that used to serve as a caravan. We looked at the elegant and well-preserved house of this rich man.

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In the evening, we went to a very famous and popular Xinjiang restaurant in the Six Star Street for dinner. The area with Russian and Central Asia atmosphere is lively and full of eateries. We had Russian beer, a roast leg of lamb, ribs of lamb and other special Xinjiang dishes  for 480 RMB for six people! It was indeed the best Xinjiang dinner I have had.

D18 Yining – Sayram Lake 賽裡木湖 (150km)

We set off at 10 am and drove along G30 for about two hours.  The weather was poor and rained intermittently. We drove on a newly completed and spectacular highway that had taken six years to complete. We had lunch at a fancy modern Xinjiang restaurant with interesting menu and nice presentation. It was wet and cold. Luckily, we were able to have early check in so that we could put on layers of warm clothes.

The programme today was a drive around the Sayram Lake (historically known as the “Clean Lake”) which is an endorheic freshwater lake in the northern Tianshan Mountains at Bortala Mongol Autonomous Prefecture less than 50 km from the border with Kazakhstan. At an elevation of 2070m above sea level, the lake has a surface area of 459 km² and a round-the-lake drive of 100km. We would have four stops including the Commanding Platform Relic Park with Eight Banners and the swan area. We saw plenty of gulls but no swan. Luckily the weather improved slightly: at least it was not raining heavily whenever we stepped off the vehicle.  

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We finished about 7pm when it started to drizzle again. After a simple dinner, we returned to the hotel ready to pack.

Day 19 Sayram Lake – Urumqi (550km)
We set off at 9am and the whole day was spent on the road. Apart from two toilet stops and a lunch stop, we remained in the vehicle till we got back to Urumqi around 5 pm. We returned to the same restaurant in Red Light Hill for our farewell dinner. Our drivers, Li and Wang joined us. We had a nice dinner to end our South Xinjiang trip.

Day 20 Urumqi – Hong Kong

We departed for the airport at 7:30am. The check in was smooth. But it took a long time to go through security. As Bing had left her power bank in the check-in luggage, she had to go to a special area to have her luggage checked. It took almost half an hour. Then we all had our carry-on bags checked when going through security. So, by the time we reached the gate, it was well after 9:15 am! Incredible. The plane took off as schedule around 10:30am and I was back in HK around 4pm.

Remarks

Xinjiang is incredibly diverse, expansive and rich in history, topography, landscape, and natural resources (oil, coal, natural gas, iron, gold, copper, salt, potash, solar and wind energy, cotton, water etc). I first visited Urumqi, Red Flaming Mountain, Tianchi and Jiaohe Ruins in early 1990s. Then I went to north Xinjiang for autumn foliage in 2012. I came to Urumqi again in 2018 to visit Turpan and Gaochang Ancient City after my remarkable journey over the Kunlun Mountains from Pakistan to Tashkurgan via G314 before reaching Tajikstan and the Pamir Plateau. But the travel through the historical deadly vast Taklamakan Desert where Faxian and Xuanzang had risked their life on their way to India in the 4^th and 7^th centuries, has really introduced me what modern day Xinjiang is all about.  The most impressive infrastructural project is the taming of the desert and successful plantation of cash crops in the desert.  It is indeed an eye-opening experience with profound implications and significance beyond China!

This journey has taken me to travel along all the main trunk routes/highway including G314, G217, G315, G218, G30 and G312, covering over 5,550 km. I am most impressed by Xinjiang’s geology and landscape, and a few recent developments.

First. The geology, topography and landscape are truly splendid and awesome: the canyons, oasis, grassland, lakes, Tianshan, Kunlun Mountains, Pamir Plateau as well as the desert are stunning and incredibly beautiful. As I was there in September, it was too early to enjoy the golden foliage of the alpine forests and the populus euphratica in the Taklamakan Desert.    

Second. The determination, perseverance, long-term views and efforts of the people of China and the government in preventing desertification have stunned the world.  As a result of successful application of technology and efficient management of water resources, there are green belts along the highway, and vast areas under cultivation of wheat, corn, cotton, fruits, sunflowers, trees etc.  

Third, the infrastructures including highway, Guozigou Bridge and train are impressive. As a result of the “One Belt, One Road” initiative, Xinjiang bordering Pakistan, Tajikstan, Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan and Mongolia, is strategically important. No doubt, it is one of the fastest growing regions in China. I was in Tashkurgan in 2018 and can already see rapid developments in this remote part of China.

Fourth. Tourism is one of the key economic forces bringing jobs, trade and people to these parts of China.  The number of self-driving mainland tourists in addition to the number of group tourists show both the growing prosperity of the mainland Chinese and the importance of tourism to Xinjiang.  I am sad to find “disneyfication” and excessive commercialization of some of the top attractions: there are too many tourists and ugly man-made structures! Also Chinese tourists are making too much noises and they are crazy about photos and selfies. I could hardly fine peace and tranquility despite the heavenly scenery. What a pity!

All in all, there is simply too much to discover in Xinjiang. This trip has brought me to major top tourist attractions including canyons, grasslands and lakes. As I am interested in the history and archaeological sites, I hope to return one day in mid October to visit some of the archaeological sites including ruins and ancient cities, Buddhist temple ruins, tombs, caves etc. Many of these sites are along the Silk Road in the Taklamakan Desert and Lop Desert in south Xinjiang. I also love to see populus euphratica at its best in the Taklamakan Desert. I would spare more time for the Urumqi Museum too.  

Xinjiang China September 1-20, 2025

Xinjiang 新疆 (full name: Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region) with an area of  approximately 1.66 million km² and a population of 25.85 million (2020), is China’s largest administrative division, covering about one-sixth of the country’s total landmass. It consists of two main regions geographically separated by the Tianshan Mountains天山: Dzungaria to the north and the Tarim Basin to the south. Its indigenous population is principally Uyghurs 維吾爾族  who are agriculturalists and pastoralists.

Xiyu 西域 (Western Regions), a historic name specified in Ancient chronicles between the 3^rd BCE to 8^th CE, refers to the vast land mass west of Yumen Pass (land of the Tarim Basin in present day southern Xinjiang) and Central Asia. During the Han dynasty (206 BCE -220 CE), Emperor Wu 漢武帝established a Protectorate over “Xiyu 36 countries” 西域三十六國 which had risen, fallen and eventually vanished during a millennium.

Xiyu is also an emotive term closely associated with Chinese history and territory.  Zhang Qian 張騫 (195 -114 BCE), the first Chinese diplomat, was dispatched by Emperor Wu  in 138 BC to make contact and build an alliance with Yuezhi 月氏 (modern Tajikistan) against the Xiongnu 匈奴. He was captured by the Xiongnu twice and did not return to report to Emperor Wu till 125 BC. During his extended stay in Central Asia, he was able to learn and bring back first-hand and invaluable information on countries in Central Asia and beyond including Dayuan (the Ferghana Valley in present day Tajikistan),  Daxia (Bactria – present day Afghanistan) and Anxi (Parthia). Zhang Qian   played an important role in bringing the vast territory in present day Xinjiang under the rule of the Han dynasty and in facilitating the development of the Silk Road. Also Buddhism was brought to China by merchants and missionaries through the Silk Road.  Chinese monks including Faxian 法顯 (337-422 CE) and Xuanzang 玄奘 (602 – 664 CE) had travelled to India through Xiyu.

Our 20-day journey designed by Roger (leader) and Zennon (deputy leader) with six members (Bing, Cynthia, Ellen, Masy, Sam and I) would take us  through South Xinjiang passing through the Taklamakan Desert, driving along the north side of the Kunlun Mountains, skirting the Pamir Plateau and transversing Tianshan with stops at archaeological sites of  some of the legendary nations, ancient towns and major attractions.

Day 1 Hong Kong – Urumqi烏魯木齊市
I departed Hong Kong with Bing, Cynthia, Ellen and Sam on Cathay Pacific at 1:30 am and had a smooth flight. I watched three films and arrived in Urumqi  at 7 am. I was surprised to find an enormous new airport on arrival. I later learned that it has a designed capacity for 90 million passengers a year and had a soft opening since May. We waited a long time for our luggage and were met by our guide Li after 8:30 am. Though the hotel is not too far away, we spent well over an hour because of horrific traffic jam.  On arrival, we met our group leader Roger who had led a group of eight to visit North Xinjiang from 20 to 30 August. Since the hotel kindly arranged early checked in for us, we were able to freshen up. I even had a nap before the afternoon trip to Tianshan.

I travelled with friends along the Silk Road in early 1990s. This was my fourth visit to Urumqi: the city has changed remarkably with better infrastructure, numerous high-rise buildings, more modern shopping malls and hotels since my last visit in 2018. At 1:30pm, we set off for Tianshan which is about 150km from Urumqi.  Located north and west of the Taklamakan Desert and directly north of Tarim Basin, the mountain range extends eastwards for about 2,900km from Tashkent Uzbekistan to Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan and Xinjiang.  Its highest peak Jengish Chokusu (Victory Peak) at 7,439m which I saw while in  Kyrgyzstan, is shared by Kyrgyzstan and China.

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I was glad to meet up with Masy and Jenny whom I met on the Shikoku Pilgrimage in 2012 and 2023 respectively. I also met a monastic whose name I have heard before. Good karma! I visited Tianshan during my first visit to Urumqi when we rode a horse to reach Tianchi 天池 (Heavenly Lake), an alpine lake with an area of 4.9 km²  located at 1,907m above sea level. Today, Tianchi is a top attraction with a fleet of buses taking visitors from the visitor centre for a 30-min ride up the mountain. Then we walked for another 10 -15 minutes to reach the lakeside. Li arranged us to take a boat ride followed by an hour’s free time to explore on our own.  I walked along the lake and saw the thousand-year old elm tree (the only elm tree in the lake area). I was amazed by the beautiful coniferous forests comprising primarily the Schrenk’s spruce, and the geology of the area. We departed at 6 pm and had a simple dinner next to the hotel.

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Day 2 Urumqi
We had a leisure day and visited a temple in the Red Light Hill 紅光山. The temple was constructed during the Qing dynasty but destroyed in 1933. Reconstruction began in 1989, and the temple was completed in 2010. A standing golden Buddha at a height of 40.8m is a landmark. After a tour, we went to an excellent Xinjiang restaurant 吉尔花园生态餐厅 for lunch.

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In the afternoon we spent two hours in the enormous Xinjiang Museum that boosts 381 national first-grade cultural relics. We had a guided tour to see the ancient mummies of Xinjiang. I find the illustrations and interactive presentations impressive! But it was too crowded as there was much room for visitors to move around.

These days, I find it tiring to stand and walk in a museum. After the mummies, I only had time to take a glimpse of Hall 7 and 8 that showcase historical relics in Xinjiang. I now have a better idea where the mummies were discovered and the locations of the legendary Xiyu 36 Countries. The exhibits are well-preserved and presented.

We then visited the Grand Bazaar. I bought camel milk power which is supposed to be nutritious (though expensive), several kilos of dried fruits and four cute Labubu!

D3– Urumqi – Korla 庫爾勒 (550km)
This was our first long travel day. We travelled in two 7-seater vehicles, and I was with Ellen, Zennon and Sam. Normally we stopped every two hours so that the driver could take a break and we could go to the toilet. Toilet facility along the highway has improved a lot: as I cannot swat, I have to look for toilet for families and disabled.  Most of the time, I had no problem in finding one in large service areas along the highway.

After a late lunch, we drove to Bosten Lake 博斯腾湖. It is China’s largest inland freshwater lake with an area of 1,019km² and an important wetland supporting some 300 species of birds.  We saw lots of lotus though the season had gone. We then drove half an hour to another scenic area with weeds. The weather was not good and there were few birds. We did not stop and drove to Korla, the second largest city by population in Xinjiang and is the seat of Bayingolin Mongol Autonomous Prefecture (the largest prefecture of China).

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Our hotel was close to the famous Kongque River (Peacock River). Bing, Ellen, Cynthia, Sam and I went out for dinner. Afterwards, we walked to the river and found a small night market with a dozen of food stalls. We could have come here for dinner.  It was a pity that we had no time to visit any of the attractions in the area including ruins, mosque, and ancient city.  It wound be wonderful to visit the Minlan Ruins 米蘭遺址with the world famous mural painting of winged angel of the 3^rd century, eight stupas, three monasteries and ancient city ruins.  

D4 Korla – Kuqa 庫車市 (540 km)
We had a smooth drive and arrived in Kuqa a county-level city in the Aksu Prefecture for lunch. It was the homeland of Kucha (Quici龜茲 ), an important ancient country on the Silk Road and an ancient Buddhist Kingdom where Xuanzang had visited in the 7^th century. Though it is one of the historically significant places, it is often overlooked.   Kuqu is also the end of the famous Duku Highway 獨庫公路  (G217) running through the Tianshan range with a length 561 km.

After lunch and a rest, we visited Kuqa Palace to learn more about naan (a traditional flatbread). In Xinjiang, naan is not just food, it is a link connecting daily life and cultural heritage. Among the more than 200 types of naans in Xinjiang, Kuqa naan is regarded as the “king” with an average diameter of over half a meter.  

I am interested in history and archaeology. When I caught sight of the Kuqa Wei Jin Ancient Tomb Museum on a notice board at the exit of the naan palace, I asked Li to take us to the museum. The Wei Jin dynasties 魏晉朝 ran from 220 to 420 CE . This archaeological site with some 2,000 tombs was discovered in 2007 and the museum was formally opened in July 2024.  Our driver Huang found his way to the Kuqa Museum instead. This museum was formally opened in May this year.  We paid for a guide for 100 RMB and had a good tour for an hour visiting two exhibition halls.  I learned more about Quici, the motherland of Kumarajiva鳩摩羅什  (344 – 413CE), a Buddhist monk, scholar, missionary and one of the four greatest translators of Chinese Buddhism.

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We then spent over an hour in the famous Restan Street filled with local eateries and shops, a mosque, royal palace and many old houses. I did not join the group to go shopping. Instead I strolled aimlessly around the colourful side streets decorated with street art and musical instruments. The old houses with colourful doors and windows are beautiful. I planned to visit the mosque. But it was too far to walk. Instead, I went to an old house where a dozen of elderly artists performed for a small group of tourists. I paid 20 RMB for a cup of tea and set down to enjoy the performance. I find this a wonderful way to soak in the relaxing atmosphere and enjoy the local culture. I met up with the group in the car park at 7:30 pm. Ellen and I found a Cantonese restaurant near the hotel where we shared a hot-pot rice (30RMB for two!).  

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I left Kuqa feeling a bit lost. I have been been fascinated by Quici as a result of my Buddhist studies and reading about Kumarajiva. But I was not been able to visit the notable cultural and archaeological sites such as the Haradun site, and Subashi Buddhist Temple Relics. 

D5 Kuqa – Alar 阿拉爾市 (430km)
We spent two hours in the Kizilya Scenic Spot located in a salt water river canyon area with unique landscape: distinctive Danxia landform featuring colourful, layered rock formations and dramatic canyon terrain. We had three stops. At the first stop, Li, Roger and I even explored a newly developed path and got lost. At the end of a small canyon, we arrived at an open air temple! At the second stop, we climbed up a sandy slope to reach a flat top named Harry Potter Fortress! We had a nice lunch in a new restaurant nearby where we had  delicious steamed fish and fish soup.  A nice surprise!

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We were back on the road at 3 pm driving 300km to reach Alar.  On the way, we began to see the desert populus euphratica 胡楊 which had not turned yellow yet. We reached the hotel after 8 pm.

D6 Alar – Hotian 和田 (450km) The Taklamakan Desert Road
Alar marks the beginning of the desert road through the Taklamakan Desert to Hotian. Today, we set off at 9 am with a couple of toilet stops on the way. I watched the desert with fascination. Through China’s determination and successful efforts to fight desertification since 1978, the Taklamakan Desert, the world’s second largest shifting sand desert with an area of 330,000 km²,  has been tamed with grasses, shrubs and trees. Crops, cotton and sunflowers are grown wherever possible. 

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Hotian was the centre of the ancient Iranian Saka Buddhist Kingdom of Khotan 于闐 (56-1006CE). It has been famous for its jade, silk and carpets. We checked in the Mecure Hotel before 4pm. As we had no programme till 7:45pm, I decided to visit the Hotian Museum. Bing, Ellen, Cynthia and Sam went with me but left after an hour. I spent almost two hours at this relatively small museum where I found some interesting mural paintings and exhibits displaying Gandhara, Persian, and Central Asia influences. I took a taxi back to the hotel (8 RMB).

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At 7:45 pm, Li took us to the Yotkan 約特干Old City built on the site of ruins about 11 km west of Hotian. The buildings were modeled on descriptions of the palace, architectures of the palace, streets and city walls of the Khotan Kingdom. Li said 500 millions RMB were spent in constructing this attraction. There is a daily show from 9:30 to 11 pm that showcases the history of Khotan with reference to its royal family, Zhang Qian and Ban Chao 班迢 (32-102 CE) both were closely associated with the expansion of the Han Dynasty territory to Xiyu and eventual development of the so-called “Silk Road”. Tourists would follow the performers walking through the entire site. Unfortunately with my hip problem, I can’t walk for hours. Instead, I found a comfortable place, sat down and watched a full blue moon rising. Cool! Sam was tired and joined me. We watched the finale in front of where we sat before joining others to return to the hotel. The show actually finished at 11:15pm and we were back to hotel around midnight!  Once again, it is a pity I had no chance to visit some famous Buddhist temple ruins including the Andir Ancient City, Niya, Balawaste, and Rawak.  

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D7 Hotian – Kashi 喀什 (250km) 

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We departed at 9 am and had lunch before heading to the Xiyu Lost City 西域迷城 at Ye Cheng 葉城. It is a new tourist attraction built next to an expansive archaeological site. We took a horse ride and spent an hour and a half looking at rustic mud houses, a palace and city walls. I climbed up the walls and saw  a desolate desert with expansive ruins close by. I think the archaeologists are still trying to unearth the secrets below. I like this place much more than the tourist Disney-like Yotkan Old City. It was so hot that I did not attempt to walk along a trail with the names of the legendary Xiyu 36 Countries.

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On our way to Kashi, we visited two villages. One is specialized in knife-making and the other in pottery. I like the pottery village and we met a pottery master. We arrived in the hotel after 8:30pm. Tonight a total lunar eclipse could be visible provided we had a clear sky from about 1 to 3 am. I started watching the beginning of the lunar eclipse till 1 am. Then I could not see anymore as it became cloudy. I got out of the bed from time to time to look up the sky but failed to see anything. At the end, I had a sleepless night.

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D8 Kashi – Tashkurgan 塔縣 (300km)
We set off at 9:20 am and had to go to the border control office to get a permit. Poor Li had to get here to queue up at 7:10am. The office opened at 10am. It was chaotic with probably about 100 people applying for permits. When the office opened, Li got ticket No 1. Today, there was only one officer handling the issuance of permits. Each of us had to present oneself in front of the officer to take a photo. Luckily we were done by 10:20am and could set off.

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We drove along G314 (the China-Pakistan Highway). Our first stop was the White Sand Lake 白沙湖 (elevation:3100m). Unfortunately, we were stuck for almost an hour before we could pass through the check-point for Tashkurgan. It was almost 3 pm when we had a quick lunch by the lake. The weather was not good with poor visibility: we could hardly see the snow-cladded mountain range surrounding the lake and the White Sand Mountain. Anyway, we had an hour free time. I strolled along the lake and watched the Mainland Chinese taking photos with white yaks. ，

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The stop at the Karakul Lake 卞拉庫勒湖 (elevation 3600m) with a surface area of 4.8  km², was much more enjoyable. The weather had improved with blue sky and reflections of the snow-capped Mt Muztaga 慕士塔格峰 (7546m), Kongur Tagh 公格尔峰 (7649m) and  Kongur Tiube 公格尔九别峰 (7530m).

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We arrived in Tashkurgan around 8pm for a hot-pot dinner. This was my second visit to Tashkurgan: I was here after visiting Pakistan in 2018. The town has grown a lot with more hotels and eateries! We had hot-pot for dinner.

D9 Tashkurgan (100km)

We had a leisure day with a scenic ride along the 36-km winding Dragon Old Road  盤龍古道. Li thought given our age and my hip problem, we should not walk uphill to reach the highest lookout platform at 4216m. I assured him I would be fine: I walked slowly and had no problem to reach the lookout point. Great views! We had two more photo stops on the way down.

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We continued the scenic drive back to Tashkurgan for lunch with a stop at the Bandir Blue Lake 班迪爾藍湖 which is described as the bluest lake in the Pamir Plateau. The lake was formed as a result of the construction of a reservoir.

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After lunch we visited the historic Stone City石頭城  which I did not have time to visit in 2018. This ancient stone castle located in the north of the city, is a famous heritage along the ancient Silk Road which dates back to the Jin Dynasty. Archaeologists believe the city was the site of the ancient Heptanese Kingdom in the Tang Dynasty. We spent over an hour wandering through the stone city walls, gates, watch towers, etc. There is a temple ruin in the Outer City while the Inner City mainly comprised the royal palace, government offices, official residences and temples. There is a platform which is supposed where Xuanzang had preached during his stay in the city on his way back to China.   After a quick tour of the Inner City of the Stone City, I spent half an hour enjoying the grassland nearby. I still remembered my time in the grassland in an early September morning in 2018.

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