Island-hopping RTW (20): Canary Islands, Spain, May 15-27, 2015

May 20 – 27, 2015: La Gomera, Tenerife & Lanzarote

Garajoy National Park, La Gomea

Lanzarote

May 20 Wednesday: Hiking in La Gomera

La Gomera is a small island with an area of 369.76km² and a population of about 23,000. The Garajoy National Park with an area of 3,986 hectares encompasses San Sebastian, Hermigua, Agulo, Vallehermoso, Valle Gran Rey and Alajero mountains. It consists of an eroded plateau and gently sloping central terrain whose steep sloping escarpments comprise uneven steps that extend as far as the park boundaries. The park harbours one of the largest continuous areas of laurisilva (laurel) forest, a habitat that has almost disappeared from southern Europe and North Africa. Almost half of the remaining forest in the Canary Islands is included in the park. In spite of being biologically diverse, a large proportion of the flora (25%) and fauna (50%) is endemic, and many species are considered to be nationally threatened (information from UNESCO website)

The island is served by seven bus routes. Two lines go to the aeroport while the remaining five cover the main settlements on the island but with fairly limited service. Lines 1 to Valle Gran Rey and 2 to Vallehermoso are the most popular routes.

Today, I took the first bus of Line 1 which departs at 10:30am everyday and got off at Parijito. My plan was to take the 13-km trail through the park to El Convento where I could catch a Line 2 bus back to San Sebastian. I met three German hikers on the bus who were heading the same direction. Achmid and Jessica live near Frankfurt while Ute is from Berlin. The trail is well-signed and the first 10 kilometres through the park is relatively easy. We met dozens of hikers on this trek.

The last 4km from El Cedor to El Convento is more challenging: part of the trail cuts into a cliff face. Though iron rail has been installed at a few dangerous spots, we were still scared. Ute simply slided down and all of us fell once or twice on the way down. We were relieved when we finally reached the bottom of the valley and passed by the Roche San Pedro.

The bus from Vallehermoso stops at El Convento around 4:15pm. Unfortunately we missed it as we were still some distance from the bus stop. Luckily a taxi passed by and we were happy to pay € 25 for a quick ride back to San Sebastian. Otherwise we had to wait till 6pm. We celebrated our safe landing with a cold beer before we said good-bye.

May 21Thursday: Hiking in La Gomera

Gomera is a hiker’s paradise with numerous trails. I picked the 14-km trail from Chipude to Vallehermoso with an ascent of 871m and a descent of 334m. I left with a day pack on my back leaving my backpack in Pension Colón. I was on the Line 1 bus again and got off at Chipude, the highest village (1100m) on the island.

Valle Gran Rey

El Cercado

Today’s walk is fairly easy and picturesque. I went through terraced fields going from one valley to another with superb views of Valle Gran Rey, passing through El Cercado and Las Hayes before reaching Las Creces. The section through the cloud forest which is part of the national park is atmospheric filled beautiful laurel trees.

Stepping out of the park, I was amazed by the scenery. There are mountain ranges on three sides with green valleys, terraced fieldsand villages below. Further afield is the sea. I had my first view of Vallehermoso.

The weather was good and sunny with few hikers. The trail is not difficult and well-signed most of the way. Somhow, I lost my way on the last 2.6km- leg to Vallesomo. I missed La Encantadora as I took a slippery and steep dirt road which later on descended directly onto my destination just after 4pm.

It’s early and I decided to go onto Agulo (250m) which has been described by a local as the ‘best’ place on the island. The bus departed at 6pm and I arrived at Agulo 30 minutes later. Agulo with a full view of Mt Teide across the water is enchanting.

I walked around for half an hour trying to find a pension or hotel. But the locals I met told me that there were only apartments to rent. Eventually I found a one-bedroom apartment with a balcony facing Mt. Teide for €40. I was happy when I sat in the balcony having two drumsticks for dinner and enjoying the view of Mt Teide at sunset.

Mt Teide, sunset (view from my balcony), Lugo Hotel (photo on the right)

After dinner, I strolled around looking at the church and a political rally in a town hall. Then I discovered Casa Lugo Hotel Rural, a beautifully restored 200-year-old house (www.hotelruralcasalugo.com) which charged only €35 for a single room in low season (€5 less than my apartment). I wish I had found and stayed here.

May 22 Friday: La Gomera – Tenerife

My boat to Tenerife would be leaving at 5pm. What should I do today?

• I got up before 6am in order to watch sunrise over Mt Teide. It was cloudy and was not as spectacular as I had expected. The memorable moment came just before 7:30am when the sun broke through the cloud. The top of Mt Teide and the clouds were tinted with rose and orange hues. I enjoyed the atmospheric though not a colourful or photogenic sunrise.

• I took the 8am bus to San Sebastian and then the 10:30am bus to Valle Gran Rey. The 40km-long journey took an hour and a half. The ride is scenic but Valle Gran Rey is not for me: I do not like a place full of resorts/hotels and tourists. I am glad that I have stayed in San Sebastian and Agulo.

• I took the 1:15pm bus back to San Sebastian and had a hair-cut (€14 only). No bad!

I had a good sight-seeing tour inn La Gomera by bus! My boat left at 5pm and I was back to Los Cristianos about 90 minutes later. I took Bus 110 to Santa Cruz which is 52km away and another bus La Laguna. Well at the end of the day, I must have done over 140km by bus!

I was hungry and had pork in a small local restaurant before returning to the B&B. Finally I could relax after 10pm in the cozy sitting room where I met Stephen from Germany who has been staying in the house for a while. As a ghost writer on geopolitical subjects, he is curious about my motive in having a website on my travel. I told him how I started the website as a mean to get myself gainfully employed during my travel, help me recall what I have seen, where I have been and my feelings and thoughts. We talked till 2am!

May 23 Saturday: Tenerife – Lanzarote

My plane for Lanzarote was scheduled at 7:10pm. I planned to take a bus to La Orotava, a historic town famous for its gardens, fine stone buildings and typical balconies. The city is applying to be listed as a World Heritage Site. At breakfast, I met Marek and Michelle from the Czech Republic who had rented a car (€6.50 a day). They kindly offered to take me to La Orotava.

Portuguese was the first European to arrive and brought with them their architectural styles which are visible from the balconies and the oldest churches. Following the conquest of Tenerife in 1496 and incorporation of the land into the Crown of Castle, aristocratic families from Spain, Italy and Flanders began to settle here. Twelve rich families from Spain arrived and began to shape the fortune and appearance of the town.

We set off around 10:30am and spent a wonderfully morning strolling around this old town with stops at the Church of our Lady of the Conception, Town Hall, Casa de los Balcones, Victoria Garden and Church of San Agustin.

I am lucky to meet nice new friends on the road. We share the same passion for travel and have similar travel style. We had a glass of white wine in a lovely garden in one of the old houses (Casa Sercaro-1654)  for only €8. They dropped me off at la Laguna before heading north in the afternoon. I stayed in the comfortable sitting room till 5:30pm before taking a taxi to the north airport for €8. The flight to Lanzarote was full.

Gorgeous sunset on arrival in Lanzarote

I landed at 8pm and picked up my luggage within ten minutes. I followed the sign to the bus stop and waited for 15 minutes. It is a short ride which costs only €1.6. I got off right opposite Lancelot Hotel at Playa de El Reducto.

May 24 Sunday- Arrecife – La Graciosa 

Lanzarote is the easternmost island of the Canaries and only 125km off the African coast. It emerged about 15 millions years ago as product of Canary hotspot. The greatest eruptions occurred between 1730 and 1736 producing 32 new volcanoes in a stretch of 18km. This area is the present day Timanfaya National Park.

Lanzarote, the fourth largest island, has an area of 125km² and a population of about 150,000. It is photogenic with a unique landscape and atmosphere: most of the buildings are white and low-rise while the hills (volcanoes) are mostly devoid of vegetation. César Manrique (April 1919 – September 1992) an artist and architect, is the man who has influenced the planning regulations thereby resulting in the present day appearance of the island. His works are visible all over the island including Manrique’s house in Haria, his foundation, Jameos del Agua, a cactus garden, El Diable, symbol of the Timanfaya National Park and the El Diable Restaurant.   La Graciosa, a small arid island (8km long and 4km wide) entirely made up of bushes and dry soil, is worth visiting too. Hence I decided to spend a night there. After checking out of the hotel at noon, I strolled along the waterfront of Arrecife and visited the Las Bolas Bridge, Castillo San Gabriel, San Ginés Churchand Charco de San Ginés (a natural lagoon). 

I took the 3:30pm bus to Órzola and brought a return ticket for €20 before boarding Bioferaexpress’s 4:30pm ferry to La Graciosa.  The El Río Strait is known for its rough sea. The small ferry rolled so much that I dared not walk around to take photos of the rocky coast, cliffs and the lighthouse. The journey only takes 30 minutes.

The island has 600 inhabitants and plenty of holiday flats/houses. There are three guesthouses in Caleta del Sebo, the main settlement on the island. I found a simple room for€28 and spent over two hours walking along the sandy path and the beach to Playa Francesa before reaching Playa de la Cocina located at the end of the southern coast right below Mna Amarilla (172m).  

I had sardines for dinner. They were small and not as tasty and fresh as the ones I had at Pension Victor in La Gomera.

May 25 Monday: La Graciosa – Tequise –  Arrecife 

I took a circular walk (Playa de Las Conchas – Playa del Ambar- Pedro Barba) before taking the ferry at noon. I set off shortly after 7am and returned to my room to pick up my backpack at 11:30am. 

Unfortunately, I had made a mistake. The Bioferaexpress ferry leaves at 11:30am and not 12 noon. The next one leaves at 3pm! I was annoyed with myself for being careless. Suddenly I found out that a ferry from the Lineas Romera would be leaving at 12:30pm. I did not want to waste time and simply brought another ticket for €11. I saw a lady cleaning the street and gave her my unused ticket to Órzola- she thanked me for the ticket and gave me a broad smile. One must note that there is no ferry between 12:30pm and 3pm.

I took the 1:10pm bus and got off at Teguise before 2pm, one of the oldest towns in the Canaries and the capital of the island from 15^th century to 1852. Known for its Sunday market, Teguise is picturesque with its traditions (the figures of devil and crucifix tradition) and impressive buildings and squares including the Plaza de la Constitución, Palaio Spínola,Church of “Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe”etc.

As there is no bus running between 3 and 4pm from Teguise to Arrecife, I had to spend over two hours there. Then I took a bus to Tahíche to visit César ManriqueFoundation. This museum, Manrique’s home built within a 3,000 m² lot, on the site of the Lanzarote eruptions in the 18th century, is impressive and beautiful. It was created upon Manrique’s return from New York in 1966. The rooms on the first floor, including the artist studios, were created with the intention of keeping with Lanzarote traditions, yet making them more modern with open spaces and large windows. The “ground floor”, more appropriately titled the “basement”, contains five areas situated within volcanic bubbles, the rooms bored into volcanic basalt. There is a central cave which houses a recreational area, including a swimming pool, a barbecue and a small dance floor.

After spending (or wasting) much time waiting today, I decided to take a taxi back to the hotel. Though I do not like driving, I should consider renting a car when travelling in places with limited public transportation.  

May 26 Tuesday: Lanzarote Grand Tour 

I do not join tours unless I have no better choice. This time, I had to join an island tour this time. It worked out quite well. I was picked up from my hotel at 9:15am (though the tour did not start till 10:30am). The tour is well-designed and value-for-money (€45 for a 7-hour trip including lunch and entrance fees). 

• We drove along the coastal road in the south passing the Salinas de Janubio which is photogenic (but there is no photo stop).
• First stop: El Golf, a small green lagoon by the sea which is shrinking and would disappear one day.

• Second stop: Timanfaya National Park which occupies an area of 51km². It has been declared a Biosphere Reserve in 1993, together with the whole island. It was very windy and chilly. While some passengers took an optional camel ride (€6), I stayed inside the coach in the coach in order not to catch a cold!

• Crater Tour: Visitors are not allowed to walk freely in the park as some spots are still dangerously hot. Instead, we had a wonderful drive on a narrow dedicated path and got very close to the craters. The moon- like landscape created by the eruptions some three hundreds years ago is stunning. It is a very special experience indeed.

• Third stop: wine tasting in La Geria, an area using traditional methods of cultivation of vines – each vine is planted in a pit 4-5m wide and 2-3m deep with small stone walls around it.

• Fourth stop: lunch at Manchu Blanca, a hamlet where the famousChurch Nuestra Señora de los Dolores stands. I had a buffet lunch and a 20 minutes’ walk before boarding the coach at 3:10pm.

• Fifth stop: a view point with a fantastic view of the Valley of the Thousand Palms and Haria.

• Last stop: Jameos del Agua, an impressive work by César Manrique

The tour ended at 5:30pm and I was back in my hotel an hour later. I spent the next two hours walking along the waterfront watching sunset.  

May 27 Wednesday: Lanzarote, Canary Islands – Milan, Italy

A travel day. My flight would be leaving around 1:30pm. I departed for the airport after a later breakfast, flied to Madrid first and waited for a connecting flight for over two hours. I finally arrived at the Milan Linate airport after 9:30pm. 

Remarks

I have added Canary Islands on my itinerary just because of their proximity to Cabo Verde: it would be a convenient stop on my way to Europe. In the end, I spent 11 full days on four main islands namely Gran Canaria, Tenerife, La Gomera and Lanzarote and one islet – La Graciosa.

This trip is exceptional and exceeds my expectations. The Canaries have been popular destinations for sun-seekers (thanks to many budget airlines) and cruise ships. I am not a beach cucumber nor sun-seeker and resorts and noisy crowds. Fortunately, I have found lots of interesting things to do and see: three World Heritage Sites and spectacular landscapes and culture on each island. I am taken by surprise by the beauty and uniqueness of some of the places I have visited.

La Gomera and Lanzarote are my flavourites. La Gomera is a hiker’s paradise. Hiking in the Garajoy National Park is blissful and safe even on my own. My stay in Agulo with a view of Mt Teide is wonderful.

Lanzarote, a world on its own, is unique and stunning. The surreal volcanic landscapes dotted with picturesque villages, whitewashed houses and palm trees are impressive. The drive in the Timanfaya National Park is a fun as well as unforgettable. I am most impressed by César Manrique whose vision and efforts have shaped the development and appearance of the island that has been declared since 1993 a Biosphere Reserve. I admire his artistic talents and creativity. My trip to La Graciosa, another world on its own, is another nice surprise.

I have seen many volcanic islands and volcanoes in my life. But I still find the expansive Teide National Park formed as a result of series of massive eruptions spectacular and impressive.

I prefer nature, small settlements and towns to big cities. I am pleased to find myself in the old town in Las Palmas de Gran Canaria, San Cristóbal de La Laguna and La Orotava in Tenerife and Teguise in Lanzarote.

The B&Bs I stayed in Las Palmas and Cristóbal de La Laguna are wonderful and highly recommended. Friends I have met on this trip from Germany and Czechs Republic are most helpful. I hope to return one day to Canary Islands to visit Fuerteventura, La Palma and El Hierro and to spend a few days hiking in the Teide National Park.