North America 1: Heavenly Hawaii, October 9-17, 2015

Island-hopping in Hawaii, October 20-27, 2015

I have to go to Turks and Caicos in the Caribbean for a wedding and Taunton in the UK to celebrate my godmother’s 90^th birthday. As a time-rich wanderlust, I buy a round-the-world ticket which offers an economic way to fly me to 13 cities in three continents in 94 days.

Why Crusing

I first visited Honolulu in 1980 on my first round-the-world ticket. As I do not like packed beach, touristic destinations and high-rise resorts, Honolulu does not appeal to me at all. I have no plan to return till I am eager to see the Hawaiian volcanoes after my recent visits to countless volcanic islands in the Atlantic Ocean and Greenland. One of the easiest and leisure way to see the islands without flying and driving is to take a 7-day cruise on Pride of America which goes to Hawaiʻi, Maui and Kauaʻi, the three largest islands in the archipelago. Kylie, my roommate for the trip to Iraq, Russia and Yellowknife, Canada, joins me. As sea view makes her seasick, we take an inside cabin for about $1,500 per person. I also take a ‘5 Tour Combo‘ with Roberts Hawaii for $150 and a  ‘Heavenly Hana Adventure Tour‘ for $135. All set- I am ready for heavenly Hawaiian islands!October 9 Friday: Hong Kong – Toyko, Japan (GMT +9)  – Honolulu, USA (GMT -10)

I took a midnight Cathy Pacific flight to Tokyo in order to visit the Tsukiji Fish Market, the world’s largest fish market which would be relocated this November. I landed at Narita Airport shortly after 6 am.  By 7 am, I was already on the Keisei line (¥1,330 one way) and got off at Higashi Ginza 75 minutes later.

Namiyoke Inari Shrine

The inner market for fish and seafood is closed to visitors till 9 am though a small number of visitors are admitted to the auction hall to watch the auction. Nonetheless, they need to queue up between 4 and 5 am. This market provides a most authentic Japanese experience. Japanese crave for raw fish and seafood. A traditional market place is the best place to appreciate their organisation, efficiency and passion for top quality fish and products.

I arrived around 8:30 am and was able to walk around the fish market. The market is vibrant filled with energy and action amid fishy smells and heat. Though wet and crowded, it remains clean and tidy.  Electric delivery carts are speeding through narrow alleys delivering boxes of fish and seafood to the successful bidders/buyers and their delivery vehicles. I watched with amazement how a metre – long tuna is sliced up neatly (like an art) with a 2-metre long knife in less than ten minutes! What an interesting experience! Almost two hours later, I sat in a small eatery next to the market and had a bowl of rice covered with raw fish and two fresh oysters for ¥3,750 (about US$31). Good value!

I visited the Namiyoke Inari Shrine (1658-1661) nearby and many side streets in the outer market selling seafood, beef and pork, vegetables, dried food and food-related products. There are also countless eateries and stalls selling all sort of food. Free tasting is offered: one can fill his/her stomach without paying! I saw a stall selling two big grilled scallops for ¥500. I was not hungry but could not resist the temptation. Wow, the scallops are most delicious!

After a brief visit to Tsukiji Hongwanji, a branch temple of the Jodo Shinshu Hongwanji-ha denomination, I walked along the Chuo-Dori Street in Ginza which is lined with luxury brand stores. I had no recollection of this area: I might not have been here before as I had no interest in shopping. Anyway, I enjoyed standing at the Ginza Yonchome Intersection and looking at some of the historic photos of the area displayed on the roadside. I saw groups of Mainland Chinese tourists walking by and was greeted in Chinese by many shop attendants.

	Ginza Intersection
My brunch – raw fish, oysters & scallops	Tsukiji Hongwanji

I was tired and in no mood for sight-seeing. I walked to the Shimbashi Station to take the Keisei line to the airport. My original plan was to take a rest in a lounge inside the airport. Unfortunately there are only lounges provided by airlines which do not take passengers using a Priority Pass. I brought an ice-cream in a cafe in order to get a comfortable seat to use free Wi-Fi.

I flew with Japan Airline to Honolulu. Most of the passengers are Japanese who are neat and quiet. The seats in the economy class are fairly spacious and comfortable. I fell asleep as soon as the plane took off around 8 pm. As the plane crossed the International Date Line, I gained a day and arrived in Honolulu shortly after 6 am on October 9.

The Hawaiian Archipelago

Located about 3,000 km from the nearest continent, the archipelago comprises some 130 islands and several atolls stretching over 1,500 miles with a total land area of 16,636 km^². The eight major islands are Hawaiʻi, Maui, Oʻahu, Kauaʻi, Molokaʻi, Lānaʻi, Niʻihau and Kahoʻolawe.  The Papahānaumokuākea Marine National Monument encompassing 360,000km^² of ocean water, including ten islands and atolls of the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands, is a World Heritage Site for its cultural and natural values.

Hawaiian islands are the exposed peaks of a great undersea mountain range known as the Hawaiian-Emperor Seamount chain formed by volcanic activity over a hotspot in the Earth’s mantle. The southwest island is volcanically active whereas the islands on the northwest end of the archipelago are older and typically smaller, due to longer exposure to erosion.

It is estimated that the northwestern most island, the Kure Atoll is the oldest at approximately 28 million years (Ma); while the southeastern most island, Hawaiʻi is approximately 0.4 Ma (400,000 years). The only active volcanism in the last 200 years has been on the southeastern island, Hawaiʻi, and on the submerged but growing volcano to the extreme southeast, Loʻihi. Almost all of the magma of the hotspot has the composition of basalt, and so the Hawaiian volcanoes are composed almost entirely of this igneous rock. The majority of eruptions in Hawaiʻi are Hawaiian-type eruptions because basaltic magma is relatively fluid compared with magmas typically involved in more explosive eruptions.

Brief History

Roughly 1,500 years ago, Polynesians from the Marquesas Islands first set foot on Hawaiʻi Island. Five hundred years late, Tahitian explorers arrived and settled in the area. The Hawaii civilisation gradually evolved and the islands were ruled by chieftains.

On January 18, 1778 Captain James Cook on his third voyage to find a Northwest Passage between England and Asia landed on Kauaʻi at Waimea Bay. He called the islands the ‘Sandwich Islands” in honour of the then First Lord of Admiralty John Montagu, 4^th Earl of Sandwich. This name was used till 1840s. Cook was killed a year later in Kealakekua Bay on Hawaiʻi Island.

In 1791, North Kohala born Kamehameha united the warring factions of Hawaiʻi Island and established a single kingdom in 1810. Euro-American immigrants began to arrive followed by several waves of workers from China and Japan. In 1820, the first Protestant missionaries arrived and Hawaii gradually became a port for seamen, traders and whalers.

In 1893 the Hawaiian monarchy was overthrown by American colonists who controlled much of the nation’s economy. Queen Liliˋuokalani withdrew from the throne to avoid bloodshed. In 1898, the US formally annexed the islands. In 1959, the State of Hawaii (except Midway) became the 50^th state of the USA.  

The immigration and customs officers are friendly. Speedishuttle got me to Hotel Equus for less than  $30 on a return ticket. The hotel kindly arranged early check-in for me as I had not lied down for almost 45 hours. The first thing I did was to take a hot shower and then slept for four hours. At 5pm, I took a 2-hour sunset walk along the Waikiki Beach.

Flying with Delta Airline with a stop-over in Guam, Kylie turned up in the hotel shortly after 7 pm. A 5-minute firework is displayed every Friday at 7:45 pm outside Hilton Hawaii Village. I took Kylie to the beach to watch fireworks – the one at Disney Hong Kong is much better! After a quick Indian curry dinner, we went to bed as both of us were exhausted.

October 10 Saturday: Honolulu, Oahu Island

I had a good sleep till 4 am. Then I got up at 5 am, left the room in order not to disturb my roommate and used free Wi-Fi in the lobby to upload my Greenland photos to my website. Kylie got up early too. We went to McDonald next door for breakfast (I go to McDonald only when I am on the road and have nothing better to eat).

Maui Island (the Gathering Place) has an area of 1,545 km²and a population of about 1 million. Honolulu, the state capital, is the hub and top tourist destination. Both of us have been to the Pearl Harbour. We decide to take Bus 55 which goes around the eastern and northern parts of the island for $2.50. I am keen to see the world famous North Shore which is a surfers’ paradise.

We boarded the bus at 10:15 am. This bus is slow stopping dozen times giving me time to enjoy the mountainous and lush green landscape and the picturesque coastline with sandy beaches, palm trees and huge waves! After passing the Polynesian Cultural Center, the traffic suddenly came to a standstill as a result of collision of two vehicles in the middle of a two-lane road. Nothing we could do but wait! The traffic resumed after 30 minutes.

We got off at Haleiwa, a historic town which was once a prosperous resort area. Today, it is a popular spot for surfing and known for its shrimp trucks. It’s 1:30 pm and the sun was burning hot. We walked from one end of the town to the other end in search of the famous shrimp trucks. We were hungry and paid $13 for 12 spicy prawns and two scoops of rice. Yummy, yummy!

At 2:48pm, we jumped onto Bus 52 which is slightly faster than Bus 55. Anyway, we did not get back to Hotel Equus till 4:45pm! The cheapest scenic island tour I have ever taken!

All passengers must be on board Pride of America by 6:30 pm. We took a taxi for $13 to Pier 2, Aloa Tower  (a shuttle service per person is $7) and settled in our cabin 4071 on Level 4 by 6 pm. The ship is a medium sized one with 13 levels manned by a crew of 950. There are several swimming and spa pools, a fitness centre and half a dozen restaurants for 2,400 passengers. As the Hawaii laws do not allow gambling, there is no casino. Instead, there is a wood-panel library with sea view. How wonderful!

Sunset Sail, October 10, 2015

My cabin mate – Kylie, a novice photographer

We were hungry and went to the Aloa Cafe on Level 11 for a buffet dinner. Both of us do not like buffet and the noisy setting. So we go to the Skyline Restaurant on Level 5 or Liberty Restaurant on Level 6 for a proper 3-course dinner for the rest of the cruise.

Every night, there is a show from 7 to 9 pm. The Welcome Abroad Show at Hollywood Theatre on Level 5 tonight was a variety show – a preview of the singing, comedy and Hawaiian cultural show for the next few days at sea. The next Broadway cabaret show took place in Mardi Gras on Level 6 at 9:15 pm. We were exhausted and left the show half way. We slept like a log and did not get up till the alarm went off at 7am.

October 11 Sunday: Maui Island – Road to Hana (120 miles)

Maui (the Valley Isle), is the second largest island with an area of 727 km². The majority of Maui’s population (over 150,000) lives in Central Maui which is the center of the business community. South Maui is the hottest and driest part of Maui while West Maui has some of the best beaches on the island. Upcountry Maui is dominated by the mountain of Haleakala located in the center of Maui. The Road to Hana with many scenic stops leads to East Maui: the Hana Highway is a 52 mile road that winds 620 curves and 59 bridges. This side of the island gets more rainfall; hence the forests are lush and green. President Obama and Dr Sun Yat-sin, Father of modern China had both lived on this island.

Our ship arrived at the port at Kahului early in the morning. I had an early breakfast as my full day tour would start at 8:30 am. The Heavenly Hana Adventure lives up to its reputation: the road is incredibly scenic with countless sharp bends, flowing waterfalls, plunging pools on one side and dramatic seascapes with lava or sandy beaches and cliffs on the other side. Our driver – guide Jim talked non-stop. But I hardly heard what he was talking about. A problem of my hearing and English or his accent?

We stopped at Hookipo Beach (top 4 photos with waves) and Keanae peninsula to look at the land and seascape and watch waves. It was almost 1 pm when we arrived at the Black Sand Beach for lunch. Instead of having my sandwich, I spent the whole time exploring the area with a rugged lava coastline.

Keauae Peninsula

We drove through the tiny town centre of Hana before arriving at the Kipahula Visitor Center at the end of the paved road. I had 30 minutes of free time and walk to the beach to see the Oulch 7 Pools. I cannot find the postcard view of the seven pools: there are only two waterfalls with a couple of unimpressive small pools of water.

Black Sand Beach

It began to rain. For the next 45 minutes, Jim drove along a narrow dirt road along the southern coast which is exciting. Then we were back on paved highway and reached the pier at 6pm. I was hungry as I had no lunch. I went to the East meets West Restaurant and had seafood noodle and a slice of steamed Mahi-Mahi. Not too bad but nothing compared with the Chinese food in Hong Kong.

Kylie who was out on a Haleakala Crater Sunset excursion, did not get back till 8pm. I went to see Aloha Polynesia show at 7 pm. The singing and dances from Hawaii, Tonga, Tahiti and Samoa bring back happy memories of my visit to all these places except Samoa.  I joined Kylie and had my second dinner at the Liberty Restaurant after the show.  The grilled red snapper is light and delicious. I was tired and slept as soon as my head touched the pillow.

October 12 Monday: Haleakala National Park & Lahaina, Maui Island

I had a good sleep but got up at 4 am. Kylie was up too. We watched sunrise which was so-so. At 8:30 am, I was on a coach tour to the Haleakala National Park. The weather was excellent weather with clear blue sky and good visibility. The route is scenic: the lower part of the slopes is covered with lush green vegetation while the upper part is green but treeless. Michael is a nice guide and speaks good English. It took us an hour and a half to reach the Haleakala Visitor Center.

We had an hour’s free time to walk up to the summit (3,055m) which affords awesome panoramic view of the cinder cones and craters below. It was such a clear day that I could see the top part of Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa on Hawaiʻi Island.  It would be magical to watch sunrise and sunset when weather permits! Kylie was up here the day but hardly saw much owing to rain and mist.

Mauna Kea & Mauna Loa, Hawaii Island appearing above the cloud

The bus took us back to the pier shortly after 1 pm. As I still had four hours to spend on land, I took  the 1:30pm bus to Lahaina, a whaling village during the whaling boom of the mid-1800’s and the capital of Hawaiian Kingdom in the early 19^th century. The ride takes less than an hour. I had to catch the bus leaving at 3:30 pm and had less than an hour to explore the historical sites and buildings.

	Chinese Museum

I followed part of the historic trail along the Front Street to see the Pioneer Inn, the Courthouse and remains of the fort. The banyan tree next to the court house is the largest banyan tree in the country. Today the Front Street is filled with galleries, souvenir shops and eateries while dozen small boats and yachts are eager to take tourists on fishing and snorkeling trips. The channel off the coast of Lahaina is one of the best places in the world to spot humpback whales. I managed time well and was back on the ship shortly after 5 pm.

We watched sunset before taking dinner. The show “Lights, Camera, Music” featuring popular songs from musicals brings back happy memories. We were exhausted and I had a good sleep!