October 13 -16: Hawaiʻi Island & Kauaʻi Island
 Hawaii Volcanoes National Park |
 Na Pali Coast, Kauai Coast |
October 13 Tuesday: Hilo, Hawaiʻi Island
Hawaiʻi Island (the Big Island with a population of about 180,000) built from five volcanoes is the biggest and youngest island in the chain. With an area of 4,028 km², the Big Island is larger than all the islands in the rest of the state put together and boasts at least 11 climate zones. Furthermore, it is always growing from the active lava flow of the Kilauea Volcano. But lava eruptions from Mauna Kea are silica-poor and very fluid and tend to be non-explosive. The Big Island is known for its snorkeling and diving, widely considered to be the best in the state.
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We got up at 5:30 am and had a nice sunrise with pink colour and clouds over the mountain on Hawaiʻi Island. I watched our ship arriving at Hilo, a quiet east-side town with lots of local culture and history. Kylie and I joined a full day bus tour and set off at 8:30 am with Rob as the driver – guide. He is pleasant but talks non-stop. We had three brief stops at the Rainbow Falls, a Macadamia nut factory and an orchid gardens nursery.
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Then we arrived at the Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park with a land area of 1,308 km²,encompassing two active volcanoes 40km apart: Kilauea, one of the world’s most active volcanoes and Mauna Loa, the world’s most massive subaerial volcano showing the results of 70 million years of volcanism, migration and evolution in the Hawaiian Island-Emperor Seamount chain. Mauna Loa taking up over half of the island is the largest shield volcano on the Earth. The measurement from sea level to summit is more than 4 km and from sea level to sea floor about 5 km. The peak of Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa is 4,205m and 4,169m respectively.
Kīlauea Iki Crater
We had a wonderful time in the park for several hours. We were driving along the Crater Rim Drive and had a 30-minute stop at the Jaggar Museum. From the lookout, I stared with amazement at the expansive Kīlauea caldera. Hazardous fumes are still coming out from the Halemaʻumaʻu Crater which is the largest and most spectacular crater I have seen!
We then stopped at a small crater next to the road and had a short walk on lava. Further down the road is the Kīlauea Iki Crater and finally the Thurston Lava Tube. I have visited a similar lava tube in the Galapagos which is much longer and more impressive.
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We took a last glance at the Halemaʻumaʻu Crater from another lookout. Rob then took us to the ‘Candies Big Island’ where I had free tasting of half a dozen types of cookies and chocolate which are fresh and delicious. I felt less guilty as I brought a box of chocolate. The tour was over at 4 pm. The ship set sail at 6 pm while I watched sunset (not particularly impressive). The magic show “Wonders! A Magical Experience” by Charles Bach is entertaining and enjoyable!
Kona
October 14 Wednesday: Kona, Hawaiʻi IslandWe got up at 5:30am for the sunrise. Today, we went ashore by tender and landed in Kona by 7:45am. Kylie had booked a snorkelling tour on a zodiac while I would take a Historic Kona bus tour. Somehow, I thought my tour would start at 10:30am. Hence I strolled along the main road (Alii Drive) passing the Hulihe‘e Palace and Mokuaikaua Church, the first church in the state established in 1820. The interior of the church – all in wood – is simple and elegant. Then I found a lovely cafe by the beach on the Kahakai Road and spent over an hour having a coffee and using its free Wi-Fi.
 Mokuaikaua Church |
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Hulihe’e Palace
On my way to the pier, I saw a Roberts Hawaii coach with the sign “Historic Kona” on the windscreen. I puzzled for a moment wondering whether it was my coach. But I did not take action and stop it to seek clarification.
When I got back to the pier around 10:15pm, I discovered to my horror that the tour actually started at 10am and the bus had gone. I only have myself to blame! I always stay positive and try to reflect and learn from mistakes. First I must be getting senile and mix things up. Second, I am over-confident about my ability to remember details. I should have double checked the pick-up time that morning. Finally, I should trust my instinct. Had I waved at the bus driver when it stopped next to me on the main road, I would not have missed the tour. Even a professional tourist can get things mixed up occasionally – I should not feel embarrassed!
After feeling sorry for my folly and carelessness, I put things behind me. What should I do till 6pm? I had a few options:
- do nothing and return to the ship;
- get a taxi for $100-150 to discover historic Kona and find the spot where Captain Cook and his four crew members were killed in the Kealakekua Bay on Valentines Day in 1779;
- take a boat ride and snorkel with dolphins at 12:30 pm for $129;
- take a helicopter ride to see the Volcanoes National Park about $200; or
- take a shuttle for $10 to snorkel in the Kahalu’a Beach.
I returned to the ship to pick up my mask and put on my swimsuit. Then I took the shuttle to the Kahalu’a Beach. I snorkelled and saw some fish and a turtle. But I was not impressed: the beach was crowded and the water murky. I stayed only for an hour before returning to Kona to look at shops and a local market. I returned to the ship before 4 pm feeling dissatisfied for the first time. Anyway, I spoilt my precious stay in Kona.
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I watched a close-up magic session with Charles Bach before dinner. The evening show “Oh What A Night!- A musical tribute to Frankie Valli & The Four Seasons” by four singers is excellent. Kylie likes their singing and voices so much that she brought their CD for $20. Kylie’s day was also spoilt as her snorkelling trip was canceled. She ended up in the Kahalu’a Beach and saved over $100 without taking the tour. She was lucky and saw lots of colourful fish in clear water. As she was the first one to arrive at beach, the water was wonderfully clear. She also had her first swim with a big turtle.
October 15 Thursday: Kauaʻi Island
Kauaʻi (the Garden Isle with an area of 552.3 km² and a population of about 70,000) is considered the most beautiful island where over 60 films have been shot in this island. No building is permitted to be higher than a coconut palm tree. The coastal landscapes especially along the Na Pali Coast on the west side with deep valleys and knife-edge ridges running from the mountain to the sea is spectacular and breathtaking. It has the only navigable river in the state and boasts Waimea Canyon, sometimes called the “Grand Canyon of the Pacific”. The island boasts a dozen of public golf courses and expensive homes.
Our ship arrived at the port Nawiliwili before 9am. At 10:30 am, Kylie and I joined a tour with a cruise on the Wailua River with a stop at a fern grotto. The river is only a few kilometres from the port. We were entertained on the boat and the grotto by Hawaiian dancers and singers. Then we were back in the boat and were driven to a nearby lookout to look at the Wailua Falls (less than 30m high). The tour was over by 1pm. I do not enjoy the trip at all: the landscape is not particularly impressive and I have no appetite for touristic cultural performances.
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After having a quick lunch, Kylie and I took the free shuttle to Kmart where we boarded Bus 500 at 3:15 pm to Hanalei on the north shore. As a senior passenger, I paid only $1 for a 90-minute ride. Hanalei is a quiet town with a backdrop of dramatic mountain ranges and a beautiful sheltered bay with a picturesque pier stretching out into the bay.
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We watched a lovely sunset and missed the 6:15 pm bus. As we had to wait for an hour, I went into an art gallery and met Jennifer who comes from San Diego. She is kind and let me use free Wi-Fi in her gallery. I brought a bottle of red wine and invited her to drink with me. Then Chris, a surfer and a journalist arrived. He was in Nepal during the recent earthquake and is writing an article on impressive economic development in Vietnam. I like both countries and we had an interesting conversation on their development and future. The return journey took 80 minutes and we were back on the ship just before 10pm. We were hungry and rushed to the restaurant for dinner!
October 16 Friday: Kaua’i Island
Today, we took a tour to the Waimea Canyon before the boat set sailed at 1:30 pm. We got up at 5:45 am and had a quick breakfast. I got a glimpse of the golden rising sun around 6:45 am before rushing off the ship to board the tour bus.
We had a good 5-hour tour covering about 160km. Our first stop was the Spouting Horn, a natural wonder spouting water some 50ft high.
After a brief photo stop, we arrived at the Kaua’i Coffee Visitor Center at 9 am. The guide said Mt. Kawaikini is the highest point on the island at 1,598m but Mt. Waialeale at 1,569m with a record 17,300mm of rain in 1982 and an average 11,500mm of rain a year, is one of the wettest spots on earth!
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Hawaii with volcanic soil and the right climate is the only state in America that produces coffee. We had free tasting of some 20 types of coffee in the centre. I tasted only three types as I am not a coffee drinker. The nature walk next to the centre is interesting.
When passing through the town of Waimea before turning onto the Waimea Canyon Drive, we had a photo stop at the Captain Cook Landing. I am glad to set foot on this historic spot! On the way up to the lookout, we had a good view of Niʻihau Island (the Forbidden Isle), the westernmost and seventh largest inhabited islands with an area of 180 km² and a small population of about 200. The island owned by the Robinson family is off limit for mass tourism.
The highlight of this trip is the Waimea Canyon. From the Lookout, we had awesome panoramic view of the canyon which is approximately 16 km long and up to 900m deep only. The colours of the canyon with all shades of green, red, brown and gold are most impressive.
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We were back to the pier before 12:30pm. As I had to check emails and messages, I tried to find a cafe where I could buy a drink and have free Wi-Fi. Eventually I managed to do so inside the Marriott Hotel by the Kalapaki Beach. I was back on the ship around 1:15 pm.
After lunch, I watched an art auction and almost brought a painting for less than $200. As it costs $115 to ship it to Hong Kong, I drop the idea. I spent most of the afternoon on Deck 6 looking at the beautiful island as we sailed closely along the coast.
By 5pm, we reached the world famous Na Pali Coast partially veiled in cloud and mist. Then it cleared up with wonderful lights falling on the spectacular terrain that plunges from an elevation of about 1,300m to sea level over a distance of about 3km. This 25-km stretch of coast line is one of the least disturbed wild land in Hawai’i. Then we watched a gorgeous sunset till almost 6:30 pm.
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We had a quick dinner before going to Hollywood Theatre to watch the Farewell Variety Show at 7pm. We enjoy the magic show by Charles Bach, the master illusionist and the songs of Frankie Valli and the Four Seasons. But the highlight of the show tonight was the appearance of the Captain and his crew on stage. The key officers and entertainers greeted passengers at the exit and many took pictures with the Captain. All passenger came out with a broad smile on their face!
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I went to Mardi Gras to another show by Toby Beau who paid tribute to the Beatles. The salon was filled with gray-hair passengers young-at-heart like me! Beatles songs always bring back happy memories! Before going to bed, I packed my suitcase. The trip was over!