North America 4: Canyonland, October 23 -27, 2015

October 23 – 27: Monument Valley, Page, Bryce Canyon and Zion Canyon

Antelope Canyon

Bryce Canyon

Day 4– October 23 Friday: Monument Valley – Lake Powell – Page, Arizona

Monument Valley is a region of the Colorado Plateau characterised by a cluster of vast sandstone buttes, the largest reaching 300m above the valley floor. The valleys lying within the range of the Narajo Nation Reservation, has been featured in many films since 1930s. Director John Ford used the location for a number of his best-known films featuring John Wayne. In this way, Monument Valley has defined the image of the American West. 

I had the busiest day of the whole tour with three side-trips. In the morning, we had a 2-hour tour of the Valley. Unfortunately, the weather did not cooperate: it was cloudy and grey. The landscape without a blue clear sky looks dull. Our Navajo guide also does not tell us much about their people, history and culture. I also took a quick look at John Wayne cabin, a stage coach and a museum of the trading post first established by Harry Goulding and his wife Leone who arrived in the Valley in the early 1920’s.

Shortly after 11 am, we left the lodge and arrived in Page before 12:30 pm. I strolled along the main street of this sleepy town which owes its existence to the Glen Canyon Dam which took seven years to construct. Upon completion of the Dam, Page becomes a popular holiday location for houseboats on Lake Powell, the second largest man-made lake after Lake Meade and a gateway to Antelope Canyon.

In the afternoon, I had two tours which I paid. The first one took me to Antelope Canyon with a 20-minute bumpy ride on a 4WD ($35). Our local guide took us into the canyon which is narrow with spectacular and beautiful sandstone formation. Flash floods for million years have created amazing natural sculpture! Our enthusiastic guide tried to help us to take photos of the arches, waves and sandstones of all colours. The canyon is wonderfully lit up when natural lights shine through small openings.

The narrow passage through the canyon is not made for large groups. Hence, each guide takes a group of 10-12 and the tour lasts for 30-40 minutes. I hardly had time to fully appreciate the canyon’s natural beauty; not to mention to take photos that would do justice to this small but most amazing canyon.

At 4pm, I was off again for a boat ride on Lake Powell ($50). The boat first took us to see the Glen Canyon Dam before heading down the Antelope Canyon which rocks are in all shades of white. Ocher and red. The canyon is very narrow at some places: one can even touch the side wall! It is a very interesting boat ride even by my standard. I was back in the hotel at 6:30pm and spent the evening quietly in my room sorting out photos.

Day 5- October 24 Saturday: Page, Arizona – Bryce Canyon, Utah

Today is the least satisfying day. We did not leave the hotel till 9:30pm as some passengers were off on scenic flights to Tower Butte and Rainbow Bridge.

Utah, the 45^th state admitted to the Union in January 1896, is the 13^th largest state with an area of 219,887 km²and a population of about 3 million. Approximately 62% of the population are reported to be members of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints or LDS (Mormons). About 80% of the population live along the Wasatch Front, centering on Salt Lake City.

As soon as we entered Utah, I noticed the houses in even small towns and settlements look tidy and with manicured front yard. We drove along the Grand Staircase and arrived at Ruby’s Inn just outside the Bryce Canyon National Park at 12:30 pm.

Bryce Canyon National Park covering an area of 145km², is located in southwestern Utah. Bryce Canyon is not a canyon but a collection of giant natural amphitheaters along the eastern side of the Paunsaugunt Plateau. Its distinctive geological structures called hoodoos have been formed by frosting, weathering and stream erosion of the river and lake bed sedimentary rocks. The rim varies from 2,400 to 2,700m. The area was settled by Mormon pioneers in the 1850s and was named after Ebenezer Bryce who homesteaded in the area in 1874. After lunch, we were taken to Bryce Point and were given 75 minutes of free time. Sven said we could either stay at the rim or walk down to see the canyon floor.  I love to walk along the rim as well as to see the canyon floor. Unfortunately the time given to us is simply inadequate. I was annoyed when we returned to Ruby’s Inn for rest at 4:30pm.

The landscape is too beautiful and the canyon at sunset is beautiful. As the park service has stopped the shuttle service, it is difficult to explore the Park without a car. Anyway, I was determined to do something. A local suggested me walk to Fairyland Canyon which is closest to the Ruby’s Inn (4-5km away).  It was 6pm when I reached the rim of the Fairyland Canyon. The sun was setting fast and the lights were not too good for photos. I saw four deers in the wood. I had not expected any car coming to this place at this late hour.

On my way out, I was delighted to see a car passing by. Ten minutes later, it was on its way out too. The driver and her two passengers, all from the UK, offered me a lift. They stayed at the same hotel and things worked out perfectly. I was back in the hotel shortly after 6:30pm. I am very lucky! I spent the evening on my Hawaii photos.

Day 6- October 25 Sunday: Bryce Canyon – Zion National Park, Utah

In the morning, the bus took us to the Sunset Point in the Bryce Canyon National Park. We had over two hours’ free time. Sven said the first trail between Sunrise and Sunset Point along the rim is easy enough for everyone. The 1.6-mile circuit route which goes all the way to the canyon floor is more demanding. He reminded everyone to be back to the bus by 11:45am. After lunch at Ruby’s Inn, the bus would leave for Zion National Park at 1 pm.

Eating is unimportant for me: I prefer to spend time in exploring the park. I am determined to take do both trails. I told Sven not to wait for me if he did not see me on the coach at 11:45am.

I started with the walking from Sunrise Point to Sunset Point along the rim. I saw the Inspiration Point which is located high up at the Rim: I wish I had time to go there! Anyway, I walked down the path from the Sunrise Point for almost half a kilometre before returning to the Rim. 

Inspiration Point (at the rim)

Then I began the circuit walk around 10:50 am. The views along the path are awesome and arresting: the hoodoos, soaring pinnacles in beautiful golden and orange colours, narrow canyon and pine trees are inspiring.

I had a great time and good exercise. When approaching the car park at 11:45 am, I saw our bus pulling away. No need for panic: I approached another coach driver and asked whether he could give me a lift. He spoke with his guide who said “OK” without thinking. Hence I was back in Ruby’s Inn before 12 noon. Steve, our driver looked at me with great surprise when I said ‘Hello’ to him! We had a short but scenic drive to Zion National Park.

Zion National Park with an area of 590 km² is a southwest Utah nature preserve distinguished by the steep red cliffs of Zion Canyon which is 24km long and up to 800m deep. The lowest elevation is 1,117m and the highest one is 2,666m. “Zion” is an ancient Hebrew word meaning a place of refuge or sanctuary. The geology of the Zion and Kolob canyons area includes nine formations that together represent 150 million years of mostly Mesozoic-aged sedimentation. At various periods in that time warm, shallow seas, streams, ponds and lakes, vast deserts, and dry near-shore environments covered the area. Uplift associated with the creation of the Colorado Plateaus lifted the region 3,000m starting 13 millions years ago.

Small family groups of Native Americans- the semi-nomadic Basketmaker Anasazi lived in the area about 8,000 years ago. Later came the Virgin Anasazi and Paraowan Fremont. After their departure around 1300, Parrusits and other Southern Paiute sub-tribes moved in. Then Mormons arrived in 1858. In 1909, the area was declared a National Monument in order to protect the canyon and a National Park in 1918. The Park includes mountains, canyons, buttes, mesas, monoliths, rivers, slot canyons and natural arches.

A Natural Arch	Two Windows of the tunnels through the mountain

The Zion Canyon Scenic Drive cuts through its main section, leading to forest trails along the Virgin River which traverse Mojave Desert lands and join the Colorado River in Lake Mead’s handmade basin. The river flows to the Emerald Pools, which have waterfalls and a hanging garden. Also along the river, partly through deep chasms, is Zion Narrows wading hike.

Realising the presence of hikers in the group, Sven made special arrangements this time. The driver dropped Carlisle, Sophie, a couple from New York and I got off at Zion Lodge around 4 pm before taking the group to Holiday Inn Express at Springdale. Sven explained to us how to take the shuttle to the hotel after our hike.

Sophie took on the strenuous 5-mile Angel Landing Trail. Carlisle and I took the shuttle to Temple of Sinawava and had a leisure Riverside Walk (3.2km return). We then took the shuttle back to Zion Lodge. As it was only about 5:30pm, I decided to do the Emerald Pools Trails as well. Carlisle joined me too.

There are three pools and It was getting dark fast. The walk to the upper cool is demanding but I was determined to complete it. Carlisle turned back after the Middle Pool. By the time I was back at the shuttle stop, it was almost 7pm. I was relieved to find Carlisle at the bus stop at the Visitor Center: I was afraid she might get lost. We got on the last shuttle to Springdale and were at the hotel before 7:30 pm.

The hotel is very comfortable and provides hot water, coffee, tea and chocolate. I was hungry after walking some 13km today and had two cup noodles!

Day 7- October 26 Monday: Zion National Park – Las Vegas, Nevada – End of tour

We spent two hours in the Park in the morning. While most of the group members took either the Riverside Walk or the Emerald Pools Trail, Carlisle and I set off for the Weeping Rock, a short trail for 15 minutes. Then I walked along the river to enjoy the landscape in a clear day.

At 11:45am, we began our journey back to Las Vegas with a lunch stop at St George, the most important Mormon community in southern Utah with the oldest Mormon church. I had an excellent buffet with plenty of fresh salad and cooked vegetables for only $10 with a discount for customers over 60. Things here are indeed cheaper: St George is said to be the 5^th fastest growing place in the States.

By 4 pm, we were back in the City of Sin. After check-in, I walked with Carlisle to see the ‘Fashion Show’, a large mall opposite Wynn Hotel. Here one finds all the household brand names of America! Carlisle likes the flower/garden arrangements of Wynn Hotel which is posh and expensive. I went with her for a quick look.  Anyway, I do not fantasy elaborate and artificial decorations made of flowers and light bulbs. Then we tried to get to Flamingo Hotel which has a garden with flamingos. Unfortunately, it was after 6 pm when we got there and it was too dark to see the birds.

I crossed the road to Bellagio Hotel to watch the light and sound fountain show at 7 pm. Well done! At 7:30 pm, I went to see a musical ‘Menopause’ at Harrah’s Casino and Hotel. It is funny with many old tunes of the 50’s – 70’s. Most of the audience were as expected females of over 50 years old! I have no sense of humour and only laughed occasionally!

Day 8- October 27 Tuesday: Las Vegas – Phoenix, Arizona – Travel Day

I had to return to L.A. first in order to take a flight to Phoenix using my round-the-world ticket. I departed Las Vegas at 10:15 am and spent five hours at the airport lounge before boarding the 4:15 pm flight to Phoenix. I had a good rest and spent my time gainfully in writing and sorting photos.