Madagascar (2) June 22 – July 20, 2016

June 27 – July 3, 2016: Andasibe. Morondava, Baobabs & Tsingy

Day 2 June 27 Monday: Antananarivo – Andasibe (135km)

After breakfast, Sol briefed us on the arrangements for the 2-day side trip to Andasibe before returning to Tana on Day 4. The whole group of 16 met for the first time: six from the UK (two Ian, Inge and Mike, Mark, Ciaran and Alison); five from Hong Kong (Joyce, Henry, Hana, Miranda and I), three from Australia (Janet, Lou and Angie) and Harvey from the US. It’s Mark’s birthday and Sol had prepared a cake. So we had a big slice of birthday cake before leaving the hotel at 9am.

We drove along RN2 towards Andasibe with a stop in the Peyeiras Reserve to see many species of chameleons including the Parson’s Chameleon, the largest species with a massive casque. We also saw our first Sifaka. We had lunch at the reserve before driving two more hours to reach the Grace Lodge where I had a lovely cottage for two nights.

We had a leisure afternoon before taking a night walk with two guides looking for Mouse lemur. I could vaguely spot two tiny shadows when they were moving. We did not have dinner till 8pm. It’s not healthy to sleep with a full stomach.

Day 3 June 28 Tuesday: Andasibe National Park

We visited our first national park on this trip today. Andasibe National Park is known for the Indri, a teddy-bear like lemur and the largest as well as one of the most endangered Madagascar’s lemur species. The park has over 70 indri which cannot survive in captivity and often lives in a family of five. Indri communicate regularly through their piercing and deep cries which can be heard three kilometres away. We saw a couple of Indri high up the tree but it was difficult to take a decent picture owing to poor light and the dense forest. We also saw Diademed Sifaka which has been reintroduced here from Mantadia. They always look gorgeous and striking.

After a nice lunch, we went to the Vakona Lemur Island, a sanctuary comprising four islets with a population of about 75 lemurs that have been abandoned or donated. We spent an hour with a dozen of Bamboo lemur, Common Brown lemur and Black and White Ruffled lemur on one of the islets. They are used to visitors and greeted us by jumping from shoulders to shoulders. One Black and White Ruffled lemur received a massage from Angie: it looked relaxed with its eyes half closed. They behave like pets and have become toys for visitors!

Common Brown Lemur

Bamboo Lemur

We also saw a group of Diademed Sifaka and brown lemurs on another islet.

Before returning to the hotel, Sol took us on a walk through the Andasibe village. There is no paved road and the sanitary conditions are poor. But the villagers mostly with filthy clothes and walk barefooted look relaxed. Lou handed out stuffed dolls and tops (labour of love) to kids: she loves knitting and her gifts have brought so much joy to these kids. Some moms rushed out with babies in their arms in order to get a gift from Lou.

We walked past a church and school run by the missionary. I am glad to see many of the pupils are girls who are well-dressed. I only hope that these girls after receiving education are empowered to change their life as well as those of their children one day! By 5pm, we were back in the hotel to relax and had a 3-course set dinner with fish at 7:30pm.

Day 4 June 29 Wednesday: Andasibe – Antananarivo (135km)

We spent the whole morning in the minibus and reached Tana for lunch followed by a city tour. We were taken to the Martyr Cathedral, a viewpoint overlooking the city, the Rova and the Prime Minister’s Palace. Instead of taking the bus, I followed Sol on a walking tour to the hotel. We stopped at the Catholic Cathedral and a couple of points of interest along the way. Sol had arranged two security guards to walk with the group. I stayed at the back walking with one of the guards. He, like many people I have met, is discontent with the present situation. Jobs are scarce and he seems to be glad to get a job as a security guard for tourists.

I went to see Hanta to discuss my itinerary from July 11 to 19. Henry who would have three more days after the group tour, came along to get more information on places he could visit. In the evening, Henry, Joyce and I had dinner at Sakamanga Hotel where I would spend my last night in Tana before leaving for Johannesburg on July 20. I had crab which looked nice and big but barely had any meat. Henry ordered foie gras and carpaccio as starter to share. I rarely have starter and dessert and only take a main course to avoid overeating. Thanks to them, I had a chance to taste more dishes than usual.

Day 5 June 30 Thursday: Antananarivo – Morondava (by air)

Today, we took the 12:15pm flight to Morondava (370km from Tana) in order to see baobabs and tsingy. In view of congested road condition, Sol arranged us to leave the hotel before 8:30am. We checked in as soon as the counters opened at 10am and spent almost two hours in the small and uncomfortable waiting lounge. We had a snack lunch while waiting.

A photography group from Mainland China was taking the same plane and I had an interesting chat with one of the members from Shanghai, who has been to Hong Kong many times for work. The group would stay in Morondava for only one day to take pictures of the Avenue of Baobabs and fly back to Tana the following day. Such a whirlwind trip is definitely not for me! As soon as we landed around 1pm, we had to peel off our winter clothes. Sol arranged six 4WD for the group and I shared Car 1 with Joyce and Henry and our driver is Fina who immediately drove us to see baobabs.

Baobab Tree (genus Adansonia named in honour of Michel Adansonia, a French naturalist and explorer) – Of the nine species of baobab tree, six are native to Madagascar (namely Grandidier’s, Madagascar, fony, Perrier’s, Suarez and za baobabs). One African species has also been introduced to the island. Babobabs reach heights of 5 to 30m and have trunk diameters of 7 to 11m.

We stopped a couple of times to take photos of a twin baobab tree and the famous Avenue of Baobabs. These giant trees are an 800-year-old legacy of the dense tropical forests that once grew here. Over the years the forests were steadily cut down leaving only the baobabs which have been preserved for religious reasons. I had a quick count which must be around 40, mostly Grandidier’s baobab trees.

After the brief baobab tour, we were back on the dusty road and arrived at Camp Amoureux in Kirindy Dry Forest Reserve at 4:45pm. I guessed we had covered some 60km today. I had a spacious tent with a double bed, attached toilet and an open air shower. We had electricity from sunset to about 10pm. Of course, there is no hot water and I had a refreshing cold shower. At 6:15pm, we had a night walk and saw two rare species of mouse lemur namely Grey Mouse lemur and Madame Berthe’s Mouse lemur. It was freezing and I was cold. Hence a sleepless night!

Grey Mouse Lemur

Madame Berthe’s Mouse Lemur

Chameleon

Day 6 July 1 Friday: Kirindy – Bekopaka (175km)

I got up before 5am though the breakfast was not served till 6:30am. We had a long way to go and set off at 7:15am. First we went to see a 1000-year-old Grandidier’s baobab before going to the Kirindy Dry Forest for a 2-hour walk.

Sakalava Tomb

At the reception area, we saw our first fossa which came out to take a bone near the cafetiere. We saw a Sakalava tomb which is unique with erotic sculptures. Sol, Mike and I who were walking at the back were lucky to spot a male fossa walking quickly past.

In the forest we saw more lemurs including Coquerel‘s Sifaka, Forked-marked lemur and Red-fronted lemur.

Then we spent two hours driving through an arid semi-desert region. The dirt road is in bad condition and Fina had to manouvere his way through countless pot holes and crossed many streams. I can understand why the area is accessible only during the dry season (June – November).

We had to cross two rivers to reach our destination. Peanut is an important cash crop here wich is bought by the Chinese. We reached the port around noon and spent about half an hour waiting for a boat to cross the Tsirbihina River. Several boats were at the river bank with dozens of men each carrying a bag weighing roughly 45kg to a collection station where the bag is weighed. I wonder how much they earn for carrying a bag.

The boat ride turned out to be a dramatic experience (rather like what I have seen in films). Our six 4WD went on two flimsy boats. I set at the front of the boat sun-bathing and watching locals farming, washing and bathing along the river banks. When the boat was just about 200m from the landing point, it was stuck owing to low tide and shallow water. The other boat got stuck as well. Nine men from the two boats spent some 20 minutes in pushing the boats off the sandy bottom.

We finally landed around 1:30pm and had a late lunch in Belo. I had shrimp and rice which was most delicious. We had another three-hour drive and I watched the ever-changing landscape and vegetation. I was hoping to reach our destination before sunset. But the sun set just before we arrived at the Manambolo River bank. It took us five minutes to cross the river and another ten minutes to reach our lodge, Olympe de Bemaraha where we stayed two nights. I found my bungalow comfortable (and luxurious!) especially after a night in the bush.

Day 7 July 2 Saturday: Grand Tsingy

The Tsingy of Bemaraha National Park covering an area of 666km² and located about 150km north of Morondava, is a World Heritage property with fascinating rock formation. The karstic landscapes and limestone uplands cut into impressive ‘tsingy’ peaks and a ‘forest’ of limestone needles, the spectacular canyon of the Manambolo river, rolling hills and high peaks. The park is covered with dry deciduous forest and savannah. At the same time, the area is an important mangrove forest preserve harbouring substantial population of wild birds and lemurs.

We set off at 7:15am and drove for about an hour. We were divided into three groups and were told to put on harness before beginning our hike at 8:30am. We first walked through a dry forest where we saw Verreaux’s Sifaka and Red-forked lemur.

Through a dry forest

Then we began our adventure tour to explore the famous Grand Tsingy. The 5-hour hike is not for people who are unfit, clumsy with balancing problems, claustrophobic or scary of height. The spiky limestone rocks are made accessible by fixed cables, temples, ladders and bridge, rope bridge, tunnels and walkways through caves, cracks and cliffs.

When we arrived at the edge of the tsingy, we began our ascent. As I was at the back, I did not know at the front. What had happened was that Mark who was with the first group had fallen with his head down into one of the pinnacles. Luckily, he had a narrow escape with minor cuts on his head and face covered with some blood, bruises on his back and arms. His 500mm lens was broken. It’s scary!

Then we entered a cave and groped in dark with a hand on the cave wall. Then we arrived at the bottom of several vertical ladders which lead climbers to the viewing platform which affords the best and infinite view of the tsingy.

1-Beginning of rock climbing

4-Up the ladder

2- Entering first cave

3-End of Cave walk

Once reaching the highest point, we began descending walking through narrow canyon and cracks. Then we descended through a series of ladders through a very narrow passage of limestone cliffs on both sides before before crawling through a narrow tunnel to arrive at the rock cathedral. After that I descended into a flat canyon floor enclosed by limestone cliffs. Here we had a good rest eating the snack we had brought and were entertained by a red ring-tailed mongoose.

5-First sight of Tsingy

6-Viewing Platform

7-Descending through narrow cracks

8-Steep ladders

9-Cathedral

10-Lunch

After lunch, we climbed up a few ladders before crawled and walking through a cave which leads us out to the open space. The rest is easy and we took the same trail back to the car park.

11-Climbing up again

12- More ladders

13-Reaching a cave tunnel

14- Through dry forest to carpark

I relaxed in the afternoon and had a beer at the terrace overlooking the expansive forest below. I watched a nice but short sunset with blood red and golden colours before taking a 30-minute massage (25,000Ar) at 6pm. This evening, I took a passion fruit rum (6,000Ar) after dinner. It’s strong (40%) but great aroma and smooth! Anyway, I felt fantastic when settling my bill: I paid 81,000Ar for two days’ personal expenses covering two main courses, two beers, a massage and a rum.

Day 8 July 3 Sunday: Bekopaka – Morondava (210km)

We had an early start in order to arrive at the Avenue of Baobabs for sunset. We left the hotel at sunrise driving in the direction of the rising sun. The scenery was breathtaking: soft radiating orange golden rays lit up the river and dusty road. I could not stop taking photos but failed to capture the serenity, beauty and film-like atmosphere.

I passed the same terrain in the afternoon two days ago but was surprised to find a greener landscape bathing in morning sunlight. I saw a number of baobab trees which I had missed last time. Time passed quickly and I did not feel bored though we took the same route.

I saw a funeral procession in Belo. We had an early lunch shortly after 11am and I had shrimps again. Once I finished my main course, I went out strolling aimlessly in the market place. While watching a young lady selling BBQ meat, I was invited for a free tasting! They looked jolly and were happy to share with a stranger like me! I am impressed. I love to take photos of common people and their daily life. But most of the locals do not want to be photographed. I respect their wish.

As only two vehicles could get on the ferry that was leaving around 12:30pm, the remaining four vehicles had to wait for the next ferry which did not arrive till sometime after 1pm.

By the time we got back to the port, it was after 2:30pm. Sol and the drivers were worried that we might not be able to reach the Avenue of Baobabs in time for the sunset. Two vehicles had minor mechanic problem and six passengers had to move to the remaining four vehicles. Fina and the other three drivers raced at top speed for the next two hours. As a result, we arrived at our destination before 5pm. We watched the sun turning yellowish golden before becoming more orange red behind the iconic baobabs. The colours after the sunset were equally amazing and in a way even more beautiful.

Fina drove us to our hotel, Renala au Sable in Morondava. It was almost 7pm. I could hear the soothing sounds of wind and waves. But it was too dark to see the sea and the surrounding.

The food at the restaurant is excellent. I had ordered a grilled fish for dinner before arrival. When I saw the shrimps in the restaurant, I could not change my order. At the end, I had the fish and shared half a plate of tasty shrimps cooked in Magalasy style with Henry. My dinner and a beer cost less than 30,000Ar!