Madagascar (5) June 22 – July 20, 2016

July 16-20, 2016: Nosy Be & Aakarafantsika National Park

‘Slash and burn’ practice: formula for disaster?

Madagascar, world’s largest vanilla producer

July 16 Saturday: Ambanja -Ankify- Andoany

I got up early as I reached Nosy Be as early as possible. My drivers dropped me off in the port in Ankify, which is about 17km from Ambanja. I caught a speed boat (12,000Ar) soon after 8am. The journey takes about 30 minutes. By 9am, I was in Andoany (formerly known as Hell-Ville), the city and harbour of Nosy Be (meaning “big island” in the Malagasy language).

Nosy Be was part of the Sakalava Kingdom of Boina till 1837 when its army was defeated by the Merians. The French colonisd it from 1840 and named it Hell-Ville (from French Adminral de Hell). With an area of 320km²and a population of over 100,000, the island is Madagascar’s largest and busiest tourist resort with several direct flights from Europe. Sugar cane was once the main cash crop. Today tourism and plantation of Ylang Ylang (for the production of perfume) are the main economic activities.

I only had a light backpack and only took ten minutes to walk from the pier to the town centre following the main street. While looking for a hotel, I came across a local tour operator and gathered some information about organised trips. After checking out a couple of hotels, I found a room at La Plantation without sea view for 60,000Ar a night. Then I rushed back to the agent to book an excursion to two islands for €55 before it closed at 11:30am on a Saturday. I was hungry and had an early lunch in a restaurant with beautiful sea views. A large grilled fish and a beer cost less than 20,000Ar. Really cheap!

After lunch, I decided to travel around like a local: I took a taxi-brousse to Andilana at the northwestern end of the island. I have a better sense of place after this ride. First, I waited over 20 minutes for the minibus to be filled up with 25-30 passengers. I was glad I had a proper seat next to the driver. Second, the bus stopped all the time and took almost an hour to arrive at the terminal. I had time to look around. I must have eaten something wrong and had to find a toilet as soon as I got off the vehicle. I was so desperate that I had to make do with a restaurant staff toilet close to a car park (without door). I was embarrassed when a staff turned up! It’s the first time I found myself in such an embarrassing situation.

I spent over half an hour strolling along the beach which is supposed to be one of the best on the island. I am not impressed. Then a hotel staff of an Italian resort turned up to tell me not to step into the hotel premises: I had to take the same way back to the main road.

I would love to visit Mt Passot, the highest peak of the island at 329m, which is not far from Andilana. But there’s no bus and I did not find a taxi. I therefore waited for the taxi-brousse by the road side. An off-duty police officer was also at the bus-stop. After waiting for over 20 minutes, the officer became impatient and tried to hitch-hike. A pick-up truck stopped and I followed him to take a ride! A fun experience! We got off in one of the main towns where we took a taxi-brousse (a small car) to Andoany (2,000Ar). Eight passengers (five at the back row and three at the front) squeezed in a tiny old vehicle. I was stuck and got so stiff that I could not hardly walk. What an experience! I went to a nice local restaurant and had mutton for the first time in Madagascar. Really tasty and tender!

July 17 Sunday: Boat trip

At 8:15am, I was picked up by a taxi driver who took me to Ambatoloaka. I met nine other tourists including a family of four from Mainland China, two teachers from La Réunion and a French family from Lyon. We first went to a small village, Ampangorinana on Nosy Komba (Lemur Island which has some 5,000 black lemurs), an island just southeast of Nosy Be. A local guide took us on a nature walk to see lemurs, tortoises, ylang ylang and boa.

Ambatoloaka, Nosy Be

Ampangorinana, Nosy Komba

Around 11am, we got on board again heading for Nosy Tanikely a tiny island surrounded by coral and sandy beaches famous for its marine reserve. Our guide set up a ‘sand-table’ with colourful table-cloth under a tree. We had salad, coconut fish, grilled fish, rice and BBQ prawns and beef. We all enjoyed the food and atmosphere. But the snorkelling was not impressive at all. Some saw a couple of turtles and nice coral. I saw none as my mask did not fit me and got fogged up all the time. Bad luck!

July 19 Monday: Nosy Be- Ankify- Ampijoroa

I got up before 5am and left the hotel around 6am. I had my first ride on a pousse-pousse to the pier(500Ar). But the boat wasted 20 minutes waiting for the last passenger while lots of people were queuing to get on a boat. I did not know what’s the problem. Eventually, a lady and her daughter got in and we set off after 7:35am. By 8am, I was at the port looking for my car. My boys did not arrive till 10 minutes later.

I asked my driver to drive along the dirt road next to the port as I saw several idyllic scattered settlements along the shore. I found two nice hotels along the road with great views of the islands around Nosy Be. Their room rates of Ankify Lodge and Baobab Hotel start from 150 to 200,000 Ar without breakfast. Good value for its location, setting and views! I would love to spend a day or two here.

Once we were back on the road, we sped on without stop till lunch time. The eatery is clean and proper and I had crab for lunch. The crab was small but meaty and tasty! I paid less than 10,000Ar for three of us.

I saw a beautiful sunset on the way to the Aakarafantsika National Park. I took several pictures of the the setting sun, paddy fields, zebu-drawn carts, mud huts and people.

We arrived at the park office just before 6pm. But it was closed already and a guard told us that all bungalows were full though I could take a tent for 20,000Ar. I normally do not sleep well in a tent. So on the advice of the guard, we drove back to the village to look for the Blue Vanga Lodge. I managed to get a nice and comfortable bungalow without breakfast for 80,000Ar. We had a nice dinner with candle lights and red table cloth in a local restaurant in the village. I had fish again and paid 9,000Ar for three of us. Very cheap!

July 19 Tuesday: Ampijoroa – Antananarivo

Aakarafantsika National Park in the Boeny Region (some 450km from Tana) with an area of 1,359km², is one of the largest and last remaining sections of dense dry deciduous forest in Madagascar. The park is rich in flora and fauna and great for birdwatching with some 130 species (75 are endemic). In the thick dry tropical forest, there are over 800 species of flora many of which are endemic ones. The park is known for its great variety of landscape: forest, savannah, scrub and sandy eroded rocks.

We had a long day. I got up at 5am and was at the park office at 6:30am. The park fee is 60,000Ar. I had to pay the guide 70,000Ar for three attractions. He speaks good English and gives plenty of information about the park and his life and family. First he took me on a 2-hour walk through the forest to look for birds and lemurs. We found a rare sportive mouse lemur and saw a Van Dam’s vanga.

Then we walked a short distance to see the tallest baobab tree in Madagascar. The final attraction is red tsingy which formation is different from those I have seen so far. To get there, we had to a scenic drive for several kilometres through savannah grassland and red soil.

By 10am, we were ready to leave. I returned to the same village restaurant and had two chicken legs and rice. By 11am, we crossed the bridge and were back on the RN4. We stopped in Maevtana at noon for lunch. This time, I ordered shrimp that looked inviting (5,000Ar for two shrimps and rice). As I was not hungry, I told the owner not to give me any rice. But he charged me the same amount (not fair!). I also ordered a portion for my drivers on top of their main dish. Their last free meal from me!!

It was the second time we drove along RN4. I found the landscape and scenery even more beautiful. My drivers stopped in Ankazobe to buy two stoves and we arrived at the outskirt of Tana before 6pm.

Unfortunately, it was the rush hour and the traffic came to a stop. My drivers know the area well and decided to take a round-about way. In this way, I passed through many back lanes that I had not seen before. Finally we beat the traffic and were back in the city centre at 6:30pm completing 2,938km and consuming about 330 litre of petrol.

I spent my last night in Madagascar in Hotel Sakamanga, a nice boutique hotel and slightly more expensive than Hotel Belverede. I had an upgrade and was pleased with my room and comfortable bed! I also had chicken for dinner, a beer and mojito for 26,000Ar. A great way to finish my trip in Madagascar.

July 20 Wednesday: Antananarivo – Johannesburg, South Africa

My flight would be departing for Johannesburg at 3pm. I had last minute spurge and brought lots of dark chocolate and foie gras as souvenirs for friends. Then I took the shuttle bus to the airport at 11:30am. At the airport, I ran into Sol who was seeing his three American guests off. What a nice coincidence!

Madagascar chocolate & foie gras

The plane took off on time and I arrived in Johannesburg at 5:40pm. I stayed at a hotel near the airport that provides free shuttle service. By 6:30pm, I already settled down in my room and spent the whole evening watching the Republican Party’s convention in Cleveland on CNN. I am scared by the incredible words and behaviour of D Trump!

July 21 Thursday: Johannesburg, South Africa – Hong Kong (GMT+8)

I had a comfortable flight with Cathay Pacific leaving Johannesburg at noon and arriving in Hong Kong after 7am on July 22. I could not sleep and watched five films!

Remarks (to add)