My journey started on April 21 in Maldives and ended in Johannesburg on July 20 in Johannesburg. As a whole, I had an easy (and hassle free) time as I spent a total of 48 out of 91 days on organised tour.
Where: I visited ten countries including Maldives, South Africa, Lesotho, Swaziland, Zimbabwe, Zambia, Botswana, Mauritius, La Reunion (a department of France) and Madagascar. I joined four tours i.e. 7, 20, 6 and 15 days in Maldives, South Africa, Botswana and Madagascar respectively
Memories
People: My friends often say that I would be lonely when travelling on my own. They are wrong: to be alone does not mean loneliness. People, whether locals or new friends, talk with me and are often curious about my travel. A few of them ask whether I am a spy as I have worked in both Europe and America and can afford to travel after retirement. Well I am a backpacker at heart and have been lucky to do a lot with limited means!
Travel mates: A few days before leaving Hong Kong, I learnt Alice, my former boss and her family would be arriving in Cape Town on the same date and time. What a coincidence! I had a lovely time with them dining and visiting a few deprived townships in Cape Town.
I also met over 50 friends from the four group travel. The divers in Maldives are Singaporeans who laugh most heartily. I met a lot of German in South Africa: they are serious but jolly and friendly. The Botswana group is predominantly American from the West Coast: they are very Americans. I am surprised that Hong Kong Chinese (five out of 16) form the largest ethnic group in the 15-day Madagascar trip.
Locals: My travel experience is often defined by people I meet. This time, I have met many remarkable local people and I name just a few below.
- Thanki, the Zimbabwean cook on the 20-day trip in South Africa, is organised, happy and honest. She prepares healthy and delicious food without much oil and fat. I am glad to help her bring clothes and stuff for her daughter and met her cousin in Victoria Falls. Her cousin invited me to his house and has told me about the corrupt central government as well as local officials. I feel very sorry for the hard working Zimbabweans who are struggling to make a living.
- Nydia, an 84-year-old graceful and elegant lady who has spent most of her life in St Lucia, has driven me in her Mercedes Benz to see sand dunes and hippos before inviting me to her lovely house and garden.
- Simon, the driver-cum-guide in Botswana, is conscientious and hard-working. I am impressed by his way in handling the demanding American tourists in the group.
- Agil, who moved to La Réunion after falling in love with the island, is a passionate hiker. I had a fantastic hike to the volcano and managed to take a close look at the two craters.
- Sol, the guide for the Madagascar trip. He is hard-working, jolly and knowledgeable. He works non-stop and always gives excellent advice.
- Hajaina and Boland, the two younger drivers who took me to North Madagascar. They drove so fast that I had to sit tight from time to time. Luckily they are skilful and I returned to Tana in one piece.
I am particularly thankful to all the strangers who have given me a lift in Mauritius and La Réunion.
Impressions and Passing Thoughts
I can read about a place, its history, people and culture. But only with first-hand information and personal experience can I have a sense of the place. Though it is interesting to be in a new place, I enjoy revisiting some countries as there are always plenty new places to discover. This time, I had an interesting mix spending time in ten countries/places in the Southern Hemisphere.
Maldives: This low-lying country may likely vanish as a result of climate change. While I have no interest in the luxurious resorts, I do enjoy island- hopping on a boat with a few dives each day. In this way, I discover that the marine life in Maldive still amazing. I shall return for another diving trip one day.
South Africa: It is the most developed country in Africa. The country has changed a lot since my first visit with my best friend Lillian in the late 1990s. The overland journey from Cape Town to Johannesburg has given me a chance to experience this expansive and beautiful country. However, my feelings are mixed after the visit.
First, Cape Town and the winery route are beautiful with an European and cosmopolitan feel owing to the large presence of German and English people. The Garden Route is also pretty with African feel. Durban and its suburbs are prosperous and vibrant with an India feel. Though I was passing through Johannesburg three times, I did not stray outside the gated hotels that are close to the airport. I must spend sometime in Johannesburg on my next visit.
Second, South Africa is rich in natural resources and sufficient in food production. But the economy is not doing well and its currency (rand) has dropped in value drastically. The gap between the rich and poor is enormous and visible. My visit to a few poor townships is eye-opening: they have no proper water supply, toilet and sewage. Crime is rampant. About a third of the population may be still living under the poverty line (Source: The World Fact-book, 2012 est.)
Third, the people I have met avoid talking about politics, the government, HIV/AID and relationship between the black and white people. I can sense their resentment and discontent with their corrupt politicians and government. I can appreciate their frustration, helplessness and anger as I am also a victim.
With my HKSAR passport, I do not need a visa for South Africa. But the immigration officer picked on the word ‘China” on my Hong Kong passport and insisted I must get a visa. I held up my group for over an hour and Simon my guide begged me to give him some money which he would put in a folder together with my passport. Eventually I gave in: they eventually stamped my passport (but it is not a visa) after getting 200 rands. It is the first time ever I had been forced to hand money to petty officials at a border check-point. Shame on the government!
No doubt, South Africa has made economic progress and remains one of the few African countries with a functioning democracy. Its overall infrastructure especially air traffic, national highway network and tourism is well-developed. It is a pity that the government is corrupt and many black nationals have been left behind. What should the government do without further delay?
Lesotho, a landlocked country, is one of the poorest countries with limited resources and has one of the highest rate of HIV/AID. I find it rustic, spiritual and unearthly beautiful. The people lead a simple and hard life. I love to return and find a way to work with and help the people.
Swaziland, another landlocked country, is small but much more developed and prosperous than Lesotho. During my overnight stay in a nice resort, I only met a dozen educated young professionals driving around in big cars. They are impressive but I have no sense about the country and its people.
Zimbabwe is another country that I have been twice. But I hardly know it as I have on both occasions only stayed in Victoria Falls, an artificial town that has been built up over the years owing to tourism. I find it messy and without character. It has also become very expensive as its currency is linked to US dollars. The government is corrupt and the people are struggling and suffering. The locals are angry and the economy is doing badly. The country is heading for trouble. But what can be done?
Zambia, or I should confine my remarks to Livingstone which I find surprisingly pleasant, charming and leafy with a relaxing and civilised atmosphere. The locals look well dressed and the place and shops look orderly and tidy. I fall in love with the Royal Livingstone Hotel which is grandiose and atmospheric. If I return one day, I shall stay in this hotel and watch sunset over the falls. Though the corruption situation here seems not as bad as in Zimbabwe, my driver has expressed his concern about the government and coming election. He fears that if things do not improve, a revolution may come one day.
Botswana, another landlocked country, is by African standard peaceful and relatively well-run. The people, both black and white I have met, have not complained about the government. Discovery of diamond a year after its independence has served the country well. Their efforts in wildlife conservation and ecotourism have paid off. I am glad to see the people getting on with their life and positive about the future.
Mauritius has a distinctive Indian feel. But it is much more organised, cleaner, tidier and efficient than India. As a result of successful policies, Mauritius today is an air hub for the region with a highly developed tourism industry. I am surprised to find the high concentration of high-end hotels and resorts in this small island nation. Anyway, it is not my preferred destination.
La Réunion is my favorite. Despite its small size, it has outstanding landscape and beautiful mountain and volcanic scenery. It is a hikers’ paradise. I am also most impressed by its efficient and cheap public transportation network. Given the French influence, the food is very good. Unlike Mauritius, it does not boast many boring high-end chain hotels and resorts. Indeed, I had an interesting time sampling guesthouse, BnB, hotel, hostel and mountain hut (ranging from €20 to over €100 a night).
Madagascar a mini-continent, has a lot to offer. Its landscape and wildlife are most impressive. After spending a month in the country, I have only covered the well-trodden tourist trails. I love the food and have warm feelings for the people. But I worry about their future and the future of the country.
Based on my observations and personal experience, I believe the country is a bad state. First, Tana is one of the worst capitals I have visited. Law and order is a serious problem. Lack of urban planning and basic facilities have ruined the once stately capital. Second, some 90% of the country is treeless as a result of the long-standing practice of ‘slash and burn’. Trees have also been cut to provide land for farming or fuel for cooking. There is no sign to revert this trend which will spell an environmental disaster. Third, uncontrolled population growth given the country’s lack of social services and employment opportunities would bring misery to the people and trouble for the government. I am sad to see young teenage girls especially in rural areas with several kids. Both these girls and their offspring are without a future. Fourth, the people are restless and angry with the corrupt government. People are struggling to make a living: most people in the city are without jobs. A few have told me only a revolution would bring changes.
Madagascar is beautiful and rich in resources. Compared with Mauritius, Madagascar has much more to offer and tourism can be an important economic driver. But without law and order, good governance and infrastructure, tourism cannot thrive. Will miracle happen? I doubt it.