August 9: Baden-Baden & Leipzig
Before taking the 2:31pm train to Leipzig, I took a leisure stroll through the elegant spa town before visiting the Frieder Burda Museum, a beautifully designed modern museum. I spent over two hours looking at the paintings and exhibits of the modern era. I had a light lunch at the Casino terrace: a glass of Reisling and a fresh pasta cost only 21 euro. Great value for the quality of food and atmosphere!
I got on an IC train and had to change in Frankfurt. The trains were very crowded. When I arrived in Frankfurt, I found that the connecting train to Leipzig would be delayed for over an hour! I escaped to a bar which was empty. I took a beer and was relieved when the train finally set off after 5:16 pm. I arrived in Leipzig after 8pm. Ibis Hotel is not far from the station.
Leipzig, Germany’s eight most populous city with over a population of 600,000, has been a major centre for trade, culture, learning and music. The city was founded in 1160. Johann Sebastian Bach (1685-1750) and Felix Mendelssohn (1809-1847) both lived and worked in Leipzig. The Oper Leipzig founded in 1843 is one of the most prominent opera houses in Germany. Leipzig University founded in 1409 is one of the oldest universities. Leipzig is the main seat of the German National Library, the seat of the German Music Archive and the German Federal Administrative Court. It has also played a significant role in precipitating the fall of communism in Central and Eastern Europe in 1989.
I strolled around the old town. A live band was playing in the well-lit up market place in front of the Old Town Hall, a landmark of Leipzig in Renaissance style. There are numerous eateries and pubs. People were drinking, enjoying the music, dancing and soaking in the atmosphere. I seldom go out in the evening. But I find Leipzig at night charming. The old town is a gem with beautiful renaissance and baroque architecture. I am most impressed by the merchant houses and passages with beautifully decorated shops.
August 10: Leipzig & Dresden
I spent seven hours exploring the old town. I started at the Riquet Coffee House. The trademark of the company is two copper elephant heads that frame the front door of the coffee house. The company has trading tradition with East Asia and the Orient since 1574. The interior decorations and architecture of the building in Art Nouveau style, are exquisite with oriental characteristics.
After having a nice coffee, I walked to the famous St Thomas Church believed to be the church of the Augustinian monastery founded in 1212. The church is now in Neo-Gothic style, stripped off the baroque style in Bach’s tenure as Cantor of Leipzig (1723-1750). In 2000, it celebrated the 250th anniversary of Bach’s death (Bach was buried in the church). Martin Luther preached here in 1539. The church boys’ choir is of international fame.
I strolled to the New Town Hall which main tower standing at 114.8m is the tallest city hall tower in Germany and then the August Plaza which is dominated by the Oper Leipzig on its northern edge, the University of Leipzig on the western side, and the Mendebrunnen (a fountain) on the southern side. I took Tram 15 to visit the Monument to the Battle of the Nations (which is also known as the 1813 Battle of Leipzig where Napoleon’s French army was defeated. This colossal imposing monument in a pyramidal shape measuring 91m tall and containing 500 steps to a viewing platform at the top, was completed in 1913 to commemorate the 100th anniversary.
When I was back to the plaza, I stopped at the University of Leipzig, looking at the new Paulinum which stands at the site of the old university church – St Paul University Church which was destroyed in 1968. I am most impressed by its bold architecture which embraces the ruins and modernity. Famous alumni include Angela Merkel, Friedrich Nietzche, Richard Wagner, Johann Wolfgang von Goethe etc.
The last place I visited today was St Nicholas Church first constructed in 1165. Its Gothic hall was constructed in the 16th century with a baroque tower added in the 18th century. In 1989, Monday demonstrations began subsequently becoming the centre of peaceful revolt against communist rule.
I like Leipzig which has attractive eateries of all price ranges. I saw a few Indian restaurants and decided to take a lamb biryani and had a delicious lunch! I took the 5 pm local train RE50 to Dresden which would be the base for three nights. It was on time but very crowded. Many had to stand all the way. I arrived just before 7pm and stayed at the Pullman Hotel near the train station.
Dresden, the capital city of the state of Saxony on River Elbe, is Germany’s 12th most populous city. The city heavily bombed during the WWII has been restored and renovated since reunification. It is regained its former glory as a cultural and educational centre. Dresden has some 13,000 listed cultural monuments and eight districts under general preservation orders, is known for its Baroque and Rococo architecture.
I was in Dresden in September 1990 soon after the fall of the Berlin Wall. Vivid images of an eerie and derelict railway station with broken glasses and the sad state of deprivation and ruins in the city centre were still on my mind. I walked to the old city centre and noticed the remarkable transformation of Dresden since my last visit. There is still plenty of constructions in the city. I watched a lovely sunset on the bridge over River Elbe and returned to the hotel after 9 pm.
August 11: Bastei Bridge and Tisa Rocks
I made a trip to see Bastei, a spectacular rock formation rising 194m above the Elbe Sandstone Mountains. Reaching a height of 305m above sea level, the jagged rocks rising to formed by water erosion over one million years ago, are the major landmark of the Saxon Switzerland National Park. To get there, I had to take a train to Kurort Rathen and a ferry across River Elbe (2.5 euro return).
It is an easy walk from the landing point to the Bastei Bridge. The entrance fee to visit a former castle linked up with steel walkways is only 2.5 euro. Views of all directions from the bridge are stunning. I was scared to look down and stand at the edge. I had a most delicious rainbow trout and a beer at the Panorama Restaurant Bastei for only 23 euro. The quality food and views are superb. One day I would like to return and stay at the Berghotel near the bridge with excellent panoramic views!
I took the short Schwedenlocher route and hike to Amselsee. The rocky path down is incredible with close views of gorge, narrow passages and gigantic stones! As it was still early, I took the train to Bad Schandau a spa town. Apart from an iconic church in the market square, there is not much. I was tempted to go to the spa. But as I had not bought swimming costume with me, it was not possible! Rathen is another spa town in the area.
August 12: Gorlitz & Bautzen
Gorlitz bordering Poland is just an hour and a half by train from Dresden. It is a well-preserved town which history began in the 11th century as a Sorbian settlement. It has been under German, Czech, Polish and Hungarian rule with a diverse culture and rich architectural heritage (Gothtic, Renaissance, Baroque, Neoclassical and Art Nouveau). Its various sites have been used as filming locations. The train station is impressive with blue tiles.
The town is picturesque without too many tourists. I had a lovely stroll from the train station to the old town. Some parts though run-down, are tidy and mostly restored. I did not follow the usual touristic path- I first went down the Hospital Street and arrived at the theatre and cultural museum. I walked round the outer path and finally arrived at the town hall and market square which are filled with beautiful merchant houses of all architectural styles. It has a Baroque museum and Schlesisches Museum. As the explanations are all in German, I decided not to visit.
I visited the St Peter and Paul Church that dominates the historic old town with its copper-covered high roof and the pair of towers. I also went to the Trinity Church of the Franciscan Order where I learn about the philosophy of Jacob Bohme who was a native.
I entered the Polish town of Zgorzelec when crossing the bridge over River River Neisse. I had lunch in a Polish restaurant with full views of the imposing St Peter and Paul Church.
After lunch, I followed the Jacob street to the train station and took the train to Bautzen, the historical capital of Upper Lusatia and an important cultural centre of the Sorbs. Bautzen was a secret prison for prisoners of conscience during the time of the German Democratic Republic another fantastic medieval town. I had a leisure stroll in this picturesque medieval town dominated by the Ortenburg Castle built by the House of Zahringen in 11th/12th century to protect the Kinzig Valley and the St Peter’s Church (1220-1497), one of the oldest and largest simultaneum churches in Germany. Today, Catholic and Lutheran altars are located on separate sides of the sanctuary.
August 13:Dresden, Berlin & Brandenburg
I spent a leisure morning strolling in the old city centre of Dresden before taking a EC train to Berlin in the afternoon. It is a pleasant walk from the station to Atlmarkt. On the way, I stopped at a Saturday market with a lot of handicrafts. I found the Kreuzkirche (the Church of the Cross) most impressive. Set on fire during the bombing of Dresden on 13 February1945, the church stripped off traditional decorations has been restored with the interior refurbished in its 1955 condition. I sat listening to an organ performance for almost half an hour.
Dresden’s imperial centre comprising the Frauenkirche, museums, the Theatre square, the Augustus Bridge and Terrace etc is impressive. There were too many local and overseas tourists milling around. The weather was excellent and I spent my time outdoor watching the river flowing by. Then I spent two hours on the train and arrived in Berlin. I stayed in a hotel close to the train station.
As it was early, I took the train to the nearby Brandenburg on the River Havel known for its Gothic, red-brick buildings and served as the capital of the Margravite of Brandenburg until it was replaced by Berlin in 1417. Today, it is a small town with a relaxing atmosphere. I visited the Cathedral and the Gothic House in the old town (Ritterstrasse 86) dating back to 1425 which is almost in its original structure. I understand it is one of the very few architectural examples of the urban, non-stately, secular brick building style of the Mark Brandenburg 15th century. I saw my first 5.35m high statute of the knight Roland made of sandstone outside the Old Town Hall. The statue was erected in 1474 as a symbol of the town’s independence.