November 26 Sunday Temples 55- 59 & 61-64
We had a busy day visiting nine temples that are not far apart. They included Temples 55 Nankobo (南光坊) (deity – Daitsu-chisho Butsu); 56 Taisan-ji (泰山寺) (deity – Jizo Bosatsu); 57 Eifuku-ji (栄福寺) (deity – Amida Nyorai) ; 58 Senyu-ji (仙遊寺) (deity – Senju Kannon); 59 Iyo Kokubun-ji (伊予国分寺) (deity – Amida Nyorai); 61 Koon-ji (香園寺) (deity – Dainichi Nyorai); 62 Hoju-ji (宝寿寺) (deity – Juichimen Kannon); 63 Kichijo (吉祥寺) (deity – Bishamonten); and 64 Maegami-ji (前神寺) (deity – Amida Nyorai).
Amongst the nine temples we visited today, we were excited to find a full range of foliage colours in Temple 37. The deep flaming red foliage was unforgetable. Temple 64 located at the foot of Mt Ishizuchi at an elevation of 1982m, has a grand and impressive setting. In the layout of the grounds and architectural appearance of its main hall, Temple 64 has a lot in common with Shinto shrines as a result of centuries of interrelation between Buddhism and Shinto. It is the head temple of the Ishizuchi School of the Shingon Sect.
For the first time, we had time for shopping in the Towel Museum: towel is Imabari’s most famous export. We then had dinner in a Chinese restaurant at the compound and had fun in an illuminated before returning to the hotel. I had my last soak of this trip in the hotel onsen.
November 27 Monday Temple 60 and 65
Today, we only visited two temples. First, we went to Temple 60 Yokomine-ji (横峰寺) , located in the middle of Mt Ishizuchi, the highest peak in western Japan at 1,982m, is famous as a sacred place for mountain worship. We had a long drive and then switched to a minibus that can go up the winding narrow road to the temple. Standing at 750m above sea level, Temple 60 is the highest temple in Ehime and the prefecture’s ‘sekishodera‘. It is also the second highest temple of 88 temples and the most difficult place in Shikuko Pilgrimage. Hence it is called ‘”Henro Korogashi“(falling down pilgrims). This was my second visit (I was at this temple on 18 January 2019). This time, the temple gave me a different impression owing to the snow on the ground and foliage colours. Indeed one can visit these temples at different seasons.
Temple 65 Sankaku-ji (三角寺) (deity – Juichimen Kannon) located at an elevation of 450m near the top of a mountain at the eastern end of the Ishizuchi mountain range, is the last temple in Ehime. We were overjoyed to find the most beautiful foliage (probably the best); the precinct was atmospheric.
On completion of the pilgrimage programme, we visited an udon workshop where we learnt how to make udon (Japanes noodle). We had lots of fun and spent the last night at the JR Hotel Clement Takamatsu. We arrived early and had time to stroll in the shopping mall. I remember the place well as I walked around the area a few times when coming to Takamatsu for the Setouchi Triennale in November 2019.
November 28 Tuesday Osaka Airport- Kyoto
Upon completion of the pilgrimage, a pilgrim can receive a “Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage Henro Ambassador” certificate which is called a kechi-gan-sho (結願証) meaning “fulfillment of one’s wishes” from the Maeyama Ohenro Koryu Salon at Temple 88. For our group, MY arranged us to have a dignified ceremony in a exclusive restaurant with a beautiful ground. Out of the group of 34, 13 had completed the pilgrimage and received the certificate from Patrick. The weather was beautiful with blue sky when we had the group photo. But all of a sudden, there was a brief hail storm! Everything is indeed impermanent. After lunch, the group departed for the Osaka Airport to take the 6pm flight to Hong Kong. Though I would spend a few days in Kyoto on my own, I took a ride with the group to the airport before taking a train to Kyoto. We arrived at the airport around 3:30pm and I bid farewell to my friends.
Remarks
My Shikoku Pilgrimage journey began in 2012, long before I took refuge in the three gem in July 2023. When I embarked on this journey last November with more understanding about Buddhism and the history of Japanese Buddhism, I fully appreciate the chance to complete the pilgrimage on the occasion of the 1250th anniversary of Kobo Daishi. It is all dependent co-arising: I was only able to join as the congregation of the University of Hong Kong was held on 19 November- the day before the group departed for Japan. I feel I have a kind of affinity to Daishi through a strange experience when visiting Temple 73 in 2013. We were lucky to see beautiful foliage in many temple grounds and had a most enjoyable trip with nice weather, great companions, onsen hotels, delicious vegetarian food, wonderful singing from Patrick. I hope I would learn more about the teachings of Kubo Daishi before visiting the remaining 20 temples associated with Kobo Daishi in Shikoku hopefully with MY again this coming October.
Kyoto 29 November – 2 December 2023
I bought an one-way ticket back to Hong Kong as I wanted to spend a few days in Kyoto to enjoy the foliage. I was lucky and had a memorable time visiting six temples including Horin-ji (法輪寺) on 29 November, Saiho-ji (西芳寺) on 30 November, Higashiyama Jisho-Ji (銀閣寺) and Daigo-ji (醍醐寺) on 31 November, and Obaku-san Manpuku-ji ( 黃檗山 萬福寺) on 1 December.
The Saihoji, opened in 731, is a World Heritage Site as part of the “Historic Monuments of Ancient Kyoto” that is known as a “garden of tuning and inspiration” . I had tried to make reservation online without success. Hence I went to the temple to try my luck on 29 November. As it was already fully booked, a helpful staff assisted me make reservation for 30 November (entrance fee: yen 4000). I returned for the second time the following day to spent about two hours inside the precinct. All visitors are required to copy the Heart Sutra in the Kondo (Golden Hall) in order to help one concentrate and calm one’s heart. The famous moss garden with ponds and matured trees engulfed in fall colours is absolutely stunning and mesmerising.
It was my first visit to Daigo-ji, a World Heritage Site. Founded in 874, it was the Head Temple of the Daigo Branch of Shingon Buddhism during the 12th century. The temple ground is expansive with 18 items specifically designated National Treasures. The five-storey pagoda built in 951 is the oldest building in Kyoto and the main devotion is Yakushi. I went there in the evening for the night lit-up foliage. It was a mistake. It was too dark to see well and the ground was too uneven to walk safely. I hope to return one day and see it properly.
I decided to make a special trip to the Manpuku-ji founded by a Chinese monk Yinyuan Longq (隱元隆琦) in 1661. I learnt about the history when visiting the Wanfu Temple (萬福寺) in Fujian. I began my visit where Yinyuan who died at the temple in 1673, had stayed. Constructed in architectural style of the Ming Dynasty, it represents an image of a dragon. The temple has a Chinese feel and atmosphere: the floor of the main hall is in stone with the same Chinese kneeling cushions. There is calligraphy on pillars It features an exemplary fish board used to toll the hours. The temple treasure house a complete collection of Buddhist scriptures completed in 1678 comprising some 60,000 printing blocks that are still in use. There was a ceremony for a deceased in the Hondo. I sat in a corner with the warm sunlight falling on my lap and listened to the chanting that is family and serene. There was beautiful foliage in the precinct.
Then I took the train to Kameoka and walked to the river to take a Hozugawa River boat ride to Arashiyama (yen 4100 for an adult). The ride took almost two hours covering some 16 km. On the boat, there were a big group from Taiwan and a few tourists from Mainland China. Both groups kept singing. Sometimes, I wished they would stop so that I could enjoy the tranquility, the gorge with interesting rocks and cliffs, and the fall colours. Anyway, the three boatmen tried hard to keep the passengers high and create a climax whenever passing through a rapid. A fun trip!
Kyoto – Hong Kong 2 December 2023
I have visited Toji, the headquarter of the Shingon Sect many times. But on completion of the Shikoku pilgrimage, I decided to pay respect to Kobo Daishi on his 1250th anniversary. It was a beautiful chilly morning. I enjoyed the walk to the temple and was amongst the first one to enter it. I spent a long time in the Kondo walking round the central platform three times. The foliage colours lightened up the compound and my heart. I took a train after 10 am to Osaka Airport and finally arrived home after 10 pm.
