The NW Passage is the sea lane between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans through the Arctic Ocean, along the northern coast of North America via waterways through the Arctic Archipelago of Canada. Le Boreal’s journey called “The Northwest Passage, in the wake of Roald Amundsen” suggests the route taken would follow those of Amundsen (1872-1928). Amundsen was the first explorer who succeeded in navigating the passage from 1903 to 1906 in Gjoa Havn, a small vessel (47 tonnes) with a crew of six men.
Day 1 August 28 Paris – Kangerlussuaq – Le Boreal
Our flight would depart Paris CDG Airport for Kangerlussuaq at 10am. We took ten minutes to walk to the airport for check-in. Things went smoothly and the flight departed on schedule. I love Greenland after travelling with Oceanwide from August 7 to September 2, 2015 from Disco Bay to Thule. After flying for five hours, we landed shortly after 1 pm (local time). We had a light lunch at the restaurant by Lake Ferguson before proceeding to the port where I had my first sight of Le Boreal.
I was pleased to step into my room which would be my home for the next 22 days. I unpacked and attended mandatory briefing and safety drill. We had a short briefing before dinner where we met Captain Charbel Daher, David, the expedition leader and the team. I was totally exhausted by the time I went to bed.
Day 2 August 29 Sisimiut
Founded in 1756, Sisimiut is the second largest town in Greenland after Nuuk, the capital city. The colourful stilt houses dot the underlying landscape. I went ashore after 9:30am and spent the whole morning strolling around a number of historical buildings including an old blue church (Bethel Church 1775), the new Sisimiut Church perching on a hill top, a museum on the history of the Inuit people, the town itself and the World Heritage Site of Aasivissuit-Nipisat, Inuit Hunting Ground between Ice and Sea (covering an area of 4178 sq km). This is my first visit to this town and I am impressed by the high quality interactive interpretations and presentations of the museum and in the churches. All guests had a chance to sample local cuisine. We returned to the boat for lunch.
At 1:30pm, I joined a group for a medium hike to see archeological sites of first settlers in the area. Given my hip problem, I found the rocky terrain challenging. At one point, I thought of turning back. Then I switched to a ‘relax’ group and walked with ease. Murielle, the archeologist, gave interesting explanations on site. The scenery and weather were gorgeous. I got back to the boat around 4pm. Before a Gala Dinner, we attended the Welcome Cocktail with Captain Charbel Daher and his officers.
Day 3 August 30 Ilulissat
Ilulissat, the third largest town in Greenland, seems to have grown since my last visit in 2015. The sea was rough with big waves. I was lucky to stay dry during the long zodiac ride to the pier located in the busy fishing port. I was surprised to find altogether four cruise ships in Ilulissat. We had a bus ride to the starting point of the 1.3km-long broad- walk to see the Ilulissat Icefjord, a World Heritage Site. It was cold and windy and I walked very slowly and took a while to reach the view point. Before taking the last bus at noon, I spent almost an hour in the museum. However I confess I did not have enough time to see all the exhibits. On the zodiac ride back to the boat, we were soaked in sea water as the zodiac was battling with strong wind and big waves.
Day 4 August 31 Sermigdlip Kangerdlua & Akulleq
We appreciated Captain Daher’s decision to take early departure from Ilulissat. The weather today was excellent. We had a wonderful zodiac cruising among icebergs in Sermigdlip Kangerdlua.
After lunch, we set foot on Akulleq, a desert island in Uummannaq Bay. The moonscape is impressive and surreal with mineral of remarkable ochre yellow and orange as well as foliage colours of red, yellow, and orange. I had one walking pole and managed to hike almost to the top for amazing panoramic views of the bay marred with countless icebergs in most impressive forms. We also found an archeological site comprising a fox trap on this island. Murielle pointed out how the trap worked. Apparently there is one more trap on the island. I had a most wonderful day!
Day 5 September 1 Kullorsuaq
We sailed the whole morning and had a leisure time onboard. We reached Kullorsuaq before 3 pm. We were the last group to leave the boat at 3:50pm. Once we were ashore, we watched a demonstration by a traditional hunter (who is 66) on the use of the harpoon for hunting. I later met him and his 74-year-old brother and took many photos with them.
I wandered around this small community that is still lives off fishing and seal or bear hunting. The houses look worn out and discolored: not as prosperous as compared with those we have visited. I saw many children with smiles. They look happy and healthy! I spoke with a teacher from Nuuk who would be leaving in two days for Nuuk. She and her children moved here a year ago when she took up a teaching post. Then one of her four children is sick and the medical service here is inadequate. The child accompanied by her father and siblings has to go back to Nuuk for treatment. She therefore decides to return to the capital and stay with her family. Life is harsh!
I had problems with walking at first. Then I walked with ease with two walking poles. I was happy to finally reach the top for a panoramic view before heading back to the beach. Before catching the last zodiac back to the boat, I took plenty of photos with a local family and their relatives. Le Boreal sail to Savissivik which is over 300 NM away.
Day 6 September 2 Savissivik
We sat the clock back an hour. Unfortunately, my mobile phone did not change automatically. I went for breakfast after 7 am and thought I had plenty of time as I would not set off till 8:35 am. Alas, when I asked a staff for time, I discovered I only had ten minutes to get ready. I rushed off without finishing my breakfast! Our group had 45 minutes of zodiac cruising before landing on an archeological site with both Saqqaq and Thule remains. The area is known as iceberg graveyard. We had a nice cruise around medium-sized iceberg. I forgot my walking pole. Luckily, the the path was covered with fresh snow and was not too slippery or steep. I managed to see both sites. We were back on the boat before 11 am.
Once we were all on board, we set sail to Canada. We had two lectures today- “The Frozen North: Exploring Glaciology and Greenland’s Arctic Landscape” by Lorena, and ‘Arctic Archeology” by Murielle. I enjoyed both talks.
