Day 15 September 10 Queen Maud Gulf – At Sea
We sailed the whole day. The Queen Maud Gulf Bird Sanctuary located in the Gulf is Canada’s largest protected area. Unfortunately, no activity was allowed. I attended Alessandro’s interesting lecture on “plankton” in the morning and Julie’s promotional talk on “Le Commandant Charcot Destinations“. I am most interested in an inaugural route from Hobart to Cape Town in 2025. But it is outrageously expensive. I watched the debate between D Trump and K Harris in the evening. I find Trump’s anti-immigration remarks about Haitians eating pet dogs and cats shocking and ridiculous.
Day 16 September 11 Edinburgh Island Nunavut
We spent a full day in Edinburgh Island: the plan was to make two hiking trips in different parts of the island. I joined an intermediate group and hiked for an hour and a half. The landscape and tundra scenery were most impressive. We were lucky to spot and watch an Arctic fox before returning to the boat.
The weather was superb. After lunch, I got ready to take a zodiac ride at 2 pm for another hike at the eastern end of the island. Unfortunately, two brown bears were spotted near a nearby beach. As a result, the landing was cancelled and we could only take an hour’s zodiac cruise to enjoy the impressive land formation and tundra colours. We spotted a couple of nests on the cliffs. While some passengers were upset, I took whatever came with ease and had a most enjoyable afternoon cruise.
In the evening, I attended a concert “Around the World” performed by the five artists. Their round the world journey only covered US, Australia, Brazil, Jamaica, Spain and France. This can’t be a RTW trip today- it should include Asia and Africa!
Day 17 September 12 Ulukhaktok, Victoria Island NWT
Victoria Island is a large island in the Arctic Archipelago and Canada’s second largest island with an area of 217,291 sq km. It was a sunny and hot day by Arctic standard. We landed in Ulukhaktok (also known as Holman) with about 500 inhabitants in the afternoon and had over an hour to explore on our own. Some passengers even had a round of golf. I walked along the bay and had an interesting chat with the deputy mayor who is a hunter with another job with the local government. I am impressed by the high standard of community facilities and housing (as compared with other communities we had visited). The inhabitants care about the place which is kept impressively tidy and clean. At 4pm, we gathered at the community hall for an excellent cultural performance. Different groups performed drums and dance with passion and enthusiasm. Our expedition team and some guests joined in and had fun. The last zodiac was supposed to be at 5:30pm. But the locals did not want the party to end. As a keen supporter, I was almost the last one to leave the hall and took the last zodiac just before 6 pm.
This is our only landing in Inuvialuit. I am most impressed by the enthusiasm and energy of the locals and the local store I visited was well-stocked including beautiful fabric and fur items. The coats lined with fur worn by a few locals are most beautiful. Before jumping into the last zodiac, I had char sashimi generously given to us by a 86-year-old lady on the beach.
Day 18 September 13 Smoking Hills Northwest Territories
Located on the east coast of Cape Bathurst at the junction of the Amundsen Gulf in the Northwest Territories , next to the Arctic Ocean, Smoking Hills contain strata of hydrocarbons (oil shales) that have been burning continuously for centuries. Considered one of the most fascinating, mysterious and unique natural phenomena on the planet, the cliffs were named by Sir John Franklin on his 1826 expeditions. Smoking Hills with countless smoke columns emanating from cliffs coloured in ochre and crimson are surreal. As I was on the last zodiac cruise that would set off after 10 am, I had time for the 30-minute stretch class. during the 90- minute cruise, we got close to the cliffs. It was cloudy and I thoroughly enjoyed a most atmospheric zodiac cruise. But the sea was choppy and I almost had seasickness.
In the afternoon, I attended a lecture “Inuit life of the 1920s-1960s” given by Gwen (an Inuit) and Murielle. I have been to Greenland and Nunavat before. However, it is the first time I have heard so much from an Inuit about her own history, upbringing and culture. That evening just before midnight, the Captain told us through the public address system that northern lights had appeared. I put on warm clothes and spent an hour on deck. With the night mode of my Xiaomi, I could see faint green and blue (?) colours. Unfortunately, it soon became misty and I returned to bed.
Day 19 September 14 Sailing in Beaufort Sea
We sailed straight for five days till we got off the boat in Nome. I found time passing by as quickly as before. I attended three lectures – “Apnea” relating to free diving, “Mastering your camera: Tips and Tricks“; and “Invasive Species in the Arctic“. We also had a caviar tasting with music in he main lounge. In the evening, we were encouraged to take part in “Saturday Night Fever”. Unfortunately few guests turned up! Perhaps we are all too old for disco dancing. The highlight of the day came when the captain told us to watch northern lights on deck. The lights were more active and stronger tonight though the green and purple colours were only visible with the aid of the phone. I ended up staying up till almost 3 am watching the lights moving rapidly above my head and from the balcony of my room. Wonderful!
Day 20 September 15 Beaufort Sea
Life at sea continued. We had a lecture on “The Inuvialuit” one of the four Inuit regions in Canada, followed by another on “Greenland Shark” which can live for a few hundred of years! In the afternoon, the Chief Engineer and Staff Captain gave a surprisingly interesting talk about the “Construction and Design of Le Boreal and Things behind the Scene“. The highlight today was the Crew Talent Show with the participation of 12 teams. All staff had put in a lot of efforts: some danced, sang, performed magic show, played the piano etc. The show lasted for over two hours. I was glad that the housekeeping team won the contest!
Day 21 September 16 Chukchi Sea
Today, I was busy attending lectures and workshop. David, the expedition team leader, gave an interesting talk on “Poles“. I had a more comprehensive talk on “The Canadian Arctic Expeditions 1913-1918“. Then I took part in a workshop on “Apnea“, and attended a presentation on “Around the World by Bicycle” by Fanny and Gabriel, two expedition team members. I was in a good mood and even went to the Main Lounge after dinner to listen to piano melody by Greg Gigante, Safety Officer of Le Boreal.
No Lack of Champagne & Alcohol 
Sampled Cocktail of the Day Everyday
Day 22 September 17 Moon Festival at Chukchi Sea
Today was the Moon Festival, an auspicious festival in Chinese calendar. The Captain gave us a big surprise: the boat was surrounded by extensive sea ice when we woke up. We had our last zodiac cruise among sea ice and a surprise champagne party on ice floe. An once-in-a-lifetime celebration of the Moon Festival. My friends and I were once again the last passengers to return to the boat. At 11:30 am our Chinese friends (22 in total) from the Mainland organised a party on the observation lounge to celebrate the festival. I joined and we sang, drank my second glass of champagne of the day and had a small piece of mooncake.
In the afternoon, I attended lectures on “Sexy Lichens” and “The Iditarod Trail Dog Race” and workshop on “Adobe Lightroom Demonstration” and “Apnea“. We had a warm farewell cocktail and presentation of Le Boreal crew before attending the gala dinner.
Day 23 September 18 Diomede Islands & King Island, Alaska
Today was the last sailing day. I was thrilled when I saw a full moon (for the first time on this expedition) from my balcony around 7:30 am. It was most enchanting and warmed my heart. I stayed on deck taking photos and watching the boat sailing towards the Diomede Islands: the Big Diomede Island belongs to Russia while the Little Diomede Island is part of US territory. The weather was perfect: we spent most of the time on deck. Before lunch, I attended a lecture on “Salmon fishing in Alaska” and an “Apnea workshop”. In the afternoon, we had a lecture on “Cetaceans of the Arctic” before scenic navigation of the King Island. Before dinner, we gathered for the last time in the theatre watching a video of the expedition before dinner. It brought back many happy memories.
In the evening, I went to the theatre for an experience sharing “23 days in Kayak in Greenland Ice” with Ben of the expedition team. Ben is soft spoken and quiet. But he gave passionate talk on his kayak days in Greenland before joining the boat. Wonderful!
September 19 End of Expedition Nome – Seattle
We had to get up very early as the US immigration officers came on board before 7 am. We collected our passport ready for disembarkation. The weather was poor rainy and grey when I stepped off the boat around 8:30am. Goodbye Le Boreal!
We spent a few hours in Nome before flying to Seattle at 2 pm. Today Nome, home to the Inupiat natives and known for its Gold Rush 1898 to 1909, has a population of about 3,700 (2020 census). There is a kind of frontier town feel and I find it hard to imagine it once had a population of some 10,000. I first took a bus tour to see muskoxen outside the town before taking a museum tour. The display and illustrations are excellent. I learn the history of the gold rush and how gold was mined in Nome as well as the remarkable history of the Iditarod Dog Sled Race which began in 1925. As a diphtheria epidemic raged in Nome, the territory-wide blizzard conditions prevented the delivery of diphtheria antitoxin serum to Nome. A relay of dog sled teams successfully delivered the serum from Anchorage to Nome.
The weather had improved. I enjoyed spending half an hour strolling along main street visiting the Salon (since 1900), the Visitor Centre, a shop selling souvenirs and another selling marijuana products. It is sad to see many houses especially along the shore destroyed by Typhoon Merbok on September 17, 2022, are still in need of repair.
We had a 4-hour flight to Seattle. As my connecting flight to Taipei-Sapporo would be departing around 1 am, I said goodbye to Maria, Karen and Heidi and stayed at the airport. Fortunately I was able to check in shortly after 9 pm and relaxed in a lounge till the plane took off about 1 am on 20 September.
Remarks (to add)