Day 11 November 10: Callo (Lima), Peru
We were glad to step ashore after two sea days. Passengers were offered three excursions and I took a 6-hour tour to Huaca Pucllana in the district of Miraflores and Larco Herrera. Huaca Pucllana is an impressive archaeological site belonging to the Lima culture of regional developments. Evidence suggests construction of the great pyramid here began around 200 CE, reached its peak from the 5th century onwards, and the maximum extension occurred in 700 CE. Built on a mud base by means of rammed earth or rectangular parallelepiped-shaped adobes in a vertical position, it was originally composed of a set of pyramids, plazas, courtyards and ramped entrances. During the occupation of the Huari (Wari) Culture (700-1100CE), the highest parts of the pyramid (25 metres) were destroyed and converted into an elite cemetery. The importance of the complex which had been abandoned for a long time, was investigated, preserved and restored since 1981.
The expedition team invited a Peruvian group to come onboard to perform. Guests enjoyed the lively performance by the dancers and musicians.
Day 12 November 11: Paracas
Day 13 November 12 At Sea
Lectures kept me busy today. I enjoyed the four lectures namely “Land Mammals of Central and South America”, “From Deep Time to Modern Mines: Geology and Copper in Chile”, “Hiram Bingham, the Acknowledgment of Manchu Picchu” and “Acoustics of the Underwater World”.
Day 14 November 13 Arica Chile
Arica is Chile’s northernmost city and the capital of the Region of Arica and Parinacota. Out of the four excursions on offer, I joined the tour to Lauca National Park. Three big tourist buses set off at 6:30am as it would take over four hours to reach our destinations including a couple of acclimatization stops. Located over 4,000m above sea level, the park created in 1970 with an area of 137,883 ha covering foothills, lakes, lagoons, and high plateau, offers great opportunity to observe birds and waterfowls. The scenery is fantastic with the snow-cladded Taapaca (5860m), a Holocene volcanic complex as a backdrop. However I found it difficult for the body to adjust and felt exhausted and tired. Our local guide said we had reached 4,600m which was the highest point of the day. A few guests had to inhale oxygen when walking back to the coach. (In the evening, the expedition leader broke the sad news that a lady who joined the tour had passed away with cause of death not known). It was the first time I experienced such exhaustion: this could be a combination of aging and rapid ascent of +4600 in less than six hours. We spent over an hour by the lake before heading to Putre (3371m), a town with over 3000 inhabitants for lunch. We were back in the boat around 7 pm. A good but long day!
Day 15 November 14 At Sea
I had a good rest on sea day. I attended Peter’s talk on “The World of Seabirds”. He spoke passionately about the 400 species of seabirds ranging from his No 1 favourite – albatross, the bird that can fly over 600 miles in a single day and can live up to 60 or 70 years of age, to the smallest storm-petrels that weigh a few ounces. Peter’s wife Shirley talked about her “Journey to the South Pole” in the afternoon. I also joined a talk by Captain Sasha about navigation at sea on board the Silver Wind followed by another talk “A Map of Plants” by Tristan. An educational day!
Day 16 November 15 Antofagasta
I woke up at 4:40am with red-eyes, had a porridge, and climbed into a coach at 5:30am with a pillow in hand. Today, three coaches set off for the Atacama Desert which would take 4-5 hours’ drive. I love deserts and Atacama Desert with an area of 105,000 sq km is the driest nonpolar desert in the world. Though I have visited the area twice, I would always return when I had a chance. I was exhausted and dozed off till about 10 am. Our first stop was at a nature reserve to watch flamingoes for about an hour. Then we reached San Pedro de Atacama around 1 pm and were supposed to set off around 2:45pm for the Moon Valley. Unfortunately we had almost 100 people and the service was slow. We did not set off till 3:30 pm. As a result, we did not have much time in the Valley of the Moon stopping only at two attractions namely Three Marias and The Amphitheatre. I am marveled by the sand and stone formations that have been carved by water and wind. The range of colour and texture resembling those on the Moon, are amazing.
The last stop was at Coyote for a traditional offering ceremony for Mother Earth. We were rushing setting off at 7 pm and were back on the boat just before 11:30 pm. What a long day! I was glad I survived. The nice surprise today was the watching of the supermoon (known as the Beaver Moon) rising over the Atacama Desert. As we were in a rush, we could not stop for moon and star gazing. What a pity!
Day 17 November 16 Isla Pan de Azucar
I did not want to get up for the 9:15am briefing by the expedition leader. Being a professional traveller, I pulled myself out of bed in order to find out the arrangement of the zodiac cruising in the afternoon when the ship arrived at Isla Pan de Azurcar, a place I visited on my last visit and hike in the Atacama Desert. Since I was up, I went to Manu’s talk on the geology of the Atacama Desert. Then at noon, I was on the last zodiac cruise of this expedition. Isla Pan de Azucar, neighbouring islets and rocks are home for South American sea lions and marine otters in addition to bird species like Humboldt Penguins, Inca Terns, Kelp Gulls, Peruvian Boobies, Pelicans and Diving-Petrels, Red-legged Cormorants and Turkey Vultures. I recall seeing many penguins and birds on this island. Last time, the island was teeming with wildlife. But this time, I saw only five penguins, few boobies, sea lions, diving petrels and vultures etc. Peter said the drastic drop of wildlife was a result of avian flu.
Day 18 November 17 Coquimbo (to add)
Day 19 November 18 Valparaiso – End