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Today we visited only four temples as they are far apart. We started with Temple 37 Iwamoto-ji (岩本寺) (deity-Fudo Myoo, Kannon Bosatsu, Amida Nyorai, Yakushi Nyorai and Jizo Bosatsu); then drove 82 km to reach Temple 38 Kongofuku-ji (金剛福寺) (deity-Senju Kannon). This is the longest stretch between two temples on the Shikoku pilgrimage that requires physical and spiritual endurance required by pilgrims in the old days. The last temple of the “Ascetic Training” section is Temple 39 Enkoji (延光寺) (deity – Yakushi Nyorai).
I find Temple 37 arty. The ceiling of the main hall rebuilt in 1978, is fitted with 575 paintings collected around Japan. The temple headed by a young monk has been experimenting with art and meditation projects. I saw some interesting art installations. Temple 38 overlooking the Pacific Ocean at the tip of the Ashizuri Peninsula looks grand with a photogenic garden with impressive colourful stones, a large pond, pagoda, shrines and pine trees. We walked quickly to the viewing platform of Cape Ashizuri the southernmost point of Shikoku. The views of the ocean, clear blue water, beautiful coastline with rocks and sea cliffs are stunning. Temple 39 has a legendary ‘eye wash well’ and a stone statute of a red turtle. We all found the foliage in the precinct awesome and enchanting.
Ehime Prefecture “Enlightenment” Temples 40 – 65
We crossed into Ehime Prefecture to visit Temple 40 Kanjizai-ji (観自在寺) (deity-Yakushi Nyorai) which is the first temple of the ‘Enlightenment” section. We had a long driving day and were rewarded with a wonderful dinner in an Italian restaurant before checking in the JR Clement Hotel Uwajima.
Highlight of the day or in the Ehime Prefecture was Temple 45. Located on Kuma Highland in a gorge formed of conglomerate rock and at an altitude of 585m, the temple surrounded by rocky cliffs and primeval mossy forests of sawtooth oak is unearthly beautiful, spiritual and inspiring. The Nio Gate was imposing. The path is lined with gigantic old oak trees. There are countless stone Buddha statutes of Fudo Myoo and they are in serried rows from the area across a red bridge. The precincts are built against a cliff halls with a relatively small main hall and Daishi halls which were rebuilt in 1927 and 1920 respectively. There is a wood ladder on the right of the main hall. I was the last batch to reach the precincts as I walked very slowly taking photos and soaking in the ambiance. As I was in good conditions, I even managed to climb the ladder to the cave where the hermit Hokke practised. I was impressed by a new modern building (Henjokaku): completed in 2014, it provides accommodation for pilgrims and space for various activities including meditation. I find the mountain spiritual and would like to return one day to stay in the Henjokaku, go into the mountain and reach the inner sanctuary.
Tonight, we stayed at a hot spring hotel in Matsuyama near the Dogo Onsen, one of the three most famous and oldest hot springs in Japan. I had a lovely relaxing time at the hotel onsen.
November 25 Saturday Temples 48-54 (7)
We visited Temples 48 Sairin-ji (西林寺) (deity – Juichimen Kannon); 49 Jodo-ji (浄土寺) (deity – Shaka Nyorai); 50 Hanta-ji (繁多寺) (deity – Yakushi Nyorai); 51 Ishite-ji (石手寺) (deity – Yakushi Nyorai ); 52 Taisan-ji (太山寺) (deity – Juichimen Kannon); 53 Enmyo-ji (圓明寺) (Amida Nyorai); and 54 Enmei-ji (延命寺) (deity – Fudo Myoo). Tonight we stayed at the Imabari Kokusai Hotel with a nice onsen for two nights.
Temple 51 with an approach in the form of a corridor lined with stores selling souvenirs, is interesting. The layout of the temple is in the style of the Kamakura period (1185-1333). The Nio Gate built in 1318 (measuring 7m high, 4m wide and 3m wide) is a National Treasure. The main hall, three-storied pagoda, a five-ring pagoda, bell tower, a bronze bell said to be the oldest in the prefecture, the Gomado and Kariteimotendo are National Important Cultural Properties. The temple associated with Emon Saburo who is said to be the first pilgrim, has a museum that boasts the largest collection of cultural assets amongst the 88 temples. In addition to the standard conventional structures, there is doorway to a dark hole in the mountain. We explored taking a tunnel-path to the other which has a stupa. Taking the same path back, we discovered a path to the right near the entrance. So we continued our exploration that led us to a small cave with a large sitting Kannon and many statutes big and small lined up on the wall and floor. A weird feeling!
We had a wonderful dinner in a nice restaurant and ended the lovely day with Patrick’s beautiful singing. We drove a short distance to the Imabari Kokusai Hotel where we stayed two nights. The hotel’s onsen is excellent.
Categories: My Japan trips|Comments Off on Shikuko Pilgrimage 2023 (2)
Shikoku Pilgrimage (四国遍路) , an UNESCO site in Shikuko, comprises a multi-site pilgrimage of 88 temples associated with Kukai (774-835 ), a Buddhist monk commonly known as Kobo Daishi who founded the esoteric Shingon School of Buddhism. The walking course approximately 1,200km long may take 30 to 60 days to complete on foot. I joined the Buddhist Compassion Charity to visit Temples 1-23 (“Awakening”) in 2012 and Temple 66-88 (“Nirvana”) on my own in 2013. In 2019 when touring Shikoku with a friend, I visited eight temples enroute. I was delighted to join a 9-day trip covering Temples 24 to 65 in November. Completion of the pilgrimage during the 1250th anniversary of Daishi’s birthday is of particular significance.
Shikuko Pilgrimage RouteFirst Buddhist Compassion Charity Shikuko Pilgrimage in 2012
November 20 Monday– The group led by Patrick and MY with 34 participants left Hong Kong at 8 am on a Cathay Pacific flight to Osaka. My friends, Bing, Catherine and Siu Mui also joined this tour. The immigration procedures were cumbersome and we did not leave the Osaka airport till 2 pm. It was a long drive to Shikoku and we arrived at a hot spring hotel not far from the Kochi Prefecture around 7 pm. After dinner, I had a soak in the hot spring which helped relieved my back pain and tiredness.
We drove along the beautiful coast and stopped first at the Mikurodo Cave close to Cape Muroto where Daishi made it his home at the age of 19 (794) to practise. He completed the ascetic practice of reading the Kokuzo Gumonji Sutra a million times while seated on a rock . When he attained enlightenment, he had a vision of the star Venus flying into his mouth. To mark this transition, he adopted the name Kukai meaning “sky and sea”. In 815, he returned here, carved the statute of Kokuzo and established a temple here. I visited it with Kylie in 2019.
The first temple of the Kochi Prefecture is Temple 24 – Hotsumisaki-ji (最御崎寺) which revered deity is Kokuzo Bosatsu. This temple was first built in 807 and the temple today was reconstructed in 1914. There is a smooth boulder of andesite stone with oval indentations: when striking it with a pebble makes a bell-like sound.
At each temple, we would follow the same routine: bowing at the Nio (hill) Gate, washing hands and mouth at a water basin, proceeding to the main hall (Hondo), lighting a candle and/or a joss sticks, dropping awish note and a 5-yen coin in the box, reciting Heart Sutra together, then walking to Daishi Hall and repeating the same procedures. Before leaving the temple, we would bow with face towards the temple once more. MY arranged a person to take our record books for stamping (300 yen for getting the stamp of each temple)
This is a beautiful part of Shikuko with impressive coastline. We had a quick tour of the Cape MurotoReserve with incredible views of the ocean and rock formations along the coast. Both Temple 25 Shinsho-ji (津照寺) (deity- Jizo-Bosatsu) and Temple 26 Kongocho-ji (金剛頂寺) (deity-Yakushi Nyorai) are nearby.
After lunch, we had a longer drive to reach Temple 27 Konomine-ji (神峰寺) (deity-Juichimen Kannon) and finished the day at Temple 28 Konomine-ji (大日寺) (deity- Dainichi Nyorai). I was glad to spend two nights at JR Clement Hotel Kochi – no need to pack every day.
The temples are fairly similar in overall layout with Nio Gate, washing basin, Main Hall, Daishi Hall, reception, and sometimes halls for deities revered at the temple. The main differences are the setting, period of construction, legend and history. Hence, I decided to highlight those I find more interesting or impressive. Temple 25 founded by Daishi in 807 and tucked away in a narrow street of shops with the compound, stands at the top of a steep flight of steps with a commanding view of the port of Murotsu on the Murotsu Peninsula. It has a distinguished bright red bell tower of the modern Showa period. The name of the hill it stands is the same as my Chinese name寶珠. Temple 27 standing at 430m above sea level is the ‘sekishodera‘, that is a temple considered the most difficult to access in the prefecture in the old days. But it is no longer the case us we travelled by coach and only had a short distance to walk.
November 22 Wednesday Temples 29-36 (8 temples)
The eight temples we visited today are relatively close to each other and most are relatively small. They are Temple 29 Tosa Kokubun-ji 土佐国分寺 (deity- Senju Kannon); Temple 30 Zenrakuji 善楽寺 (deity- Amida Nyorai); Temple 31 Chikurin-ji 竹林寺 (deity- Monju Bosatsu); Temple 32 Zenjibu-ji 禅師峰寺 (deity- Juichimen Kannon); Temple 33 Sekkei-ji ( 禅師峰寺 ) (deity- Yakushi Nyorai); Temple 34 Tanema-ji (種間寺) (deity- Yakushi Nyorai); Temple 35 Kiyotaki-ji (清滝寺) (deity- Yakushi Nyorai); and Temple 36 Shoryu-ji (青竜寺) (deity- Fudo Myoo).
We were thrilled to find beautiful foliage today. Temple 31 is most impressive: long stone steps lined with mature pine trees lead to the compound at Mt. Godi. There are lots of bamboo; hence its name the Bamboo Forest Temple. It is atmospheric, tranquil and serene. The main hall built in 1644 by Yamauchi Tadayoshi, the second feudal lord of Tosa, is now the oldest building on the mountain. On a raised platform above the Daishi Hall is a red five-storied pagoda built. I love to return one day and spend time meditating.
Temple 36 standing near the tip of the Yokonami Peninsula and hidden in a valley, has an interesting history. Daishi went to study in China in 804 and he wanted to build a temple in Japan to honour his teacher Hui-Kuo (惠果) / Keika (746-805). The temple was arranged in a style similar to a temple with the same name in China. The Keika Hall is located not far from the Nio Gate. Inside the compound at the top of the steep flight of staircase are a small two-storey red and white pagoda and a much larger three-storey red pagoda. Before dinner, we had time to relax and enjoy a foot spa at the Sanyo-so Hot Springs Hotel and strolled on the beach in front of the hotel. We had a wonderful dinner in the hotel and celebrated the birthday of Jenny. Then we drove back to Kochi.
Categories: My Japan trips|Comments Off on Shikuko Pilgrimage November 2023
Solomon Islands (also known as the Solomons) consists of six major islands and over 900 smaller islands in Melanesia, part of Oceania, to the northeast of Australia. The country has an area of over 28,000 km2 and an estimated population of 750,000. Honiara located on the largest island, Guadalcanal is the capital and largest city. First discovered by a Spanish explorer in 1568, British captain Herbert Gibson of HMS Curacoa declared the southern Solomon Islands a British protectorate in 1893. There was fierce fighting between the US, British and Japanese forces during the WWII (known as the Solomon Islands campaign 1942-1945). The official name of the then British administration was changed to “The Solomon Islands” in 1975 and self-government was achieved in 1976. Independence was obtained in 1978.
October 31 Tuesday Kolombangara
We saw the extinct cone volcano of Kolombangara, an island with an area of 687 km2 in the New Georgia Islands,when we got up. The heavily forested island with few inhabitants, is a stratovocano reaching a height of 1,770 metres. The Imperial Japanese army had used an airstrip on the southern shore of the island and over ten thousand Japanese troops were present in May 1943. Today, the most significant industry on the island is logging.
At the invitation of the Kolombangara Island Biodiversity Conservation Association, we spent the morning visiting the conservation area located 400 metres above a sustainable forest plantation with an area of 200 km2. The Association arranged three 10-ton trucks to take us up to the Imbu Rano Lodge. The energetic and intrepid passengers set off on a long walk into the thick rainforest. I joined a short forest walk led by Rod, our naturalist looking for ant plants, a variety of orchids, insects and reptiles. The birders looked for Roviana Rail on their must-see list.
On departure, a bamboo band performed for us near the landing site. The villagers from Rinaggi and Boboe displayed and tried to sell polished wood bowls and elaborate masks. After a quick lunch on the ship, we had a swim and snorkeled off the beach on Lilly’s Island. We also had a zodiac cruises in the lagoon and up to the nearby river complete with dolphin escorts. I joined a group and had an informal and interesting visit to a small village. By 5:30pm, we were all back onboard and departed for Tetepare Island.
Tetepare, a long rugged island with an area of 118 km2 is noted as the largest uninhabited island in the South Pacific showcasing unique terrestrial and marine animals protected by a permanent Marine Protected Area. The people of the island decided to establish the Tetepare Descendants’ Association to protect the environment and culture of the island with a focus on conservation of the green and hawksbill turtles and critically endangered leatherback, dugongs, sharks, crocodiles, rare birds and bat species and manage the island’s resources sustainably. The coral reefs of the region support one of the highest diversities of fish and coral in the world, second only to Raja Ampat in Indonesia.
We were welcomed by local rangers in a dramatic fashion: dressed in their traditional attire complete with bows, arrows and axes, they gave us a warrior greeting leading us breakinginto laughter! We were delighted to watch the gigantic Coconut Crabs that climb trees.
We split into groups. My group first went to the black sand beach where a local ranger explained the turtle conservation programme. We watched a green turtle swimming back to the sea. Then we had a short walk in the forest. I also had a drift snorkel along the fringing reef before boarding the ship. There were both hard and soft corals on the reef with plenty of large fish such as Snapper, Parrotfish and Grouper. Owing to the swell, I did not see too clearly as the water was not tranquil and crystal clear. We were back on the ship by 12 noon.
In the afternoon we had talks on reefs and ship superstition. In one of the sessions, some of the speakers expressed their views on the increasing Chinese activities, influence and threats in general, and the Solomons in particular. I stood up and told the audience that Chinese have been sailing to and trading in Africa and the Pacific well before the age of European exploration. While the Portuguese, Dutch, Spanish, German and British claimed sovereignty, the Chinese have been peaceful migrants and traders. I felt the westerners had looked at China and the Chinese through their prism and invasive colonial past.
November 2 Thursday Malaita Island
Malaita Island, the second largest and most populous island of the country, is famous for its music and dance sometimes associated with rituals. Shell money is still used as bride price, for funeral feast, compensation etc. In the morning, we snorkeled from an uninhabited Leli Island. The snorkel was fairly good. I also had a short walk in the forest following Rod, our naturalist.
In the afternoon, we welcomed Chief Esau from the Kwaio community and some of his dance troupe aboard in their traditional attire. As a result of an atrocity in 1927, this community fled to the mountain to maintain their traditional ways of living. They took two days to come down the mountain to greet us. The original plan was to meet them on Leli Island where they would perform their very sacred dances away from the eyes of any coastal tribes. However, a tribal dispute over land ownership of the island broke out and the group was not allowed to perform on there. As a result, they came to our ship to perform. After watching them dancing, we were invited to join in one of their sacred dances which can only be experienced by those wearing the traditional attire. A small but dedicated group of the passengers took part casting off their inhibitions and clothes for this unique experience. I gave it a miss!
Around 4 pm, we were arranged to visit the Ngongosils Island which was not on our original programme. Some 300 inhabitants live in this small island. We watched some spectacular performances by young boys and a traditional bridal ceremony. The villagers including those coming from nearby islands, were most enthusiastic. They showed us around, looking at neat houses and two churches. I noticed there was a dozen of pigs and two toilet complexes with all droppings / waste going straight to the sea. Sanitation is a real issue!
We anchored off the entrance of Star Harbour near the Frigate Island. We went ashore after breakfast and were greeted by the locals with speeches and welcome dance. Hundreds of Lesser Frigate birds circled above our heads and perched in the tall trees.
I walked around this small island which only had several thatched wooden buildings. There were a few Magapode birds on the island. I snorkeled off the beach and had a good time gazing at beautiful soft corals and the fish. We were back on the ship before noon. In the afternoon, Beth and Bruce talked about PNG and WWII followed by a panel discussion with Rod, Lou and Beth on the future of conservation in Melanesia.
November 4 Saturday Nendo Island, Santa Cruz Islands
Nendö (also known as Santa Cruz) is the largest of the Santa Cruz Islands. During the Pacific campaign of WWII, the Battle of the Santa Cruz Islands was fought north of the Santa Cruz group and some US Navy seaplanes were based in Graciosa Bay. These islands were affected by the 2013 Solomon Islands earthquake and subsequent tsunami.
We went ashore at Nemboe Village around 8 am and were greeted with traditional welcome dance and women’s dance on the beach. Then torrential rain came and went without dampening their enthusiasm. We had another traditional dance in the village proper. The villagers set up market booths which showed everything from carvings to the manufactured of Red Feather Money which is used in the Santa Cruz Islands as a form of currency in settling important obligations in bridal wealth etc. This currency known as ‘Tevau’, is formed as coils resembling long belts and can reach up to 10 metres long. The feathers come from the head, breast and back of a small Scarlet Honeyeater birds living in the rainforest. A double coil of currency may consist of around 50-60,000 red feathers. I met a nice girl who became my personal guide who now runs the government guest house in the village. Her grandfather who is almost 100 years old, was one of the chiefs and I took photos with her family.
In the afternoon, we visited a technical college where students learned vital skills in house building and construction. We walked along the coast and arrived at the predominantly Anglican village notable for its monastery. By 3:30pm, we waved goodbye to the Solomons heading to the last country on our voyage, Vanuatu.
Vanuatu 5 – 8 November
Vanuatu is a small island country comprising over 80 islands in Melanesia with an area of 12,189km2 and a population of about 345,000. The Spanish explorer arrived in 1606 and claimed it for Spain. In the 1880s, France and the UK claimed parts of the archipelago, and in 1906 they agreed on a framework for jointly managing the archipelago as the New Hebrides through an Anglo-French condominium. In 1970s, an independence movement arose leading to the establishment of the Republic of Vanuatu in 1980.
We went ashore after clearance by the Vanuatu Customs officials who came aboard around 8:30am. We had a warm Vanuatuan welcome with drums when we landed on a secluded beach in the village of Rinuhe on Loh Island which is one of the main exporters of coconut crabs. Heritage Adventure was the first expedition ship to visit after her visit last year. We were adorned us with beautiful leis and greeted by the chief of the local village and wider community before beginning in dances. We were invited to join. Their dance routines involved different generations tramping out a circular beat in the show of unity. We were delighted to sample the local delicacies.
After the dance we split into groups to visit different parts of the island. I joined a group to visit a big cave before walking to the other side of the island which has a most beautiful with sheltered beaches. After lunch, we had our first snorkel. By 3:30pm the ship set sail for Espiritu Santo. We had three lectures by Bruce on WWII history, Valerie on chocolate and Rod on Island dispersal.
November 6 Monday Espiritu Santo
Espiritu Santo with an area of 3,677km2 is the largest of Vanuatu’s islands. It is known for its white soft sand beaches and clear blue waters. We spent a morning on the most beautiful Champagne Beach. We snorkeled out from the beach and the marine life was fantastic. We were treated with champagne instead of coffee and tea!
The highlight of the morning was an incredible water music of the Leweton Village water dancers from Gaua Island in the Banks Islands. The water music has been practised on Champagne Beach for hundreds of years and is passed on through the Ni Vanuatu women. In 2008, they became famous worldwide through a tour of Europe, Australia, Asia and the USA.
By the afternoon, we re-positioned further down the coast and explored Santo and downtown Luganville, the provincial capital. During WWII particularly after the Japanese attack on Pearl Harbour, the island was used by Allied Forces as a military supply and support base, naval harbour and airfield. We visited the Million Dollar Point, named for its worth after thousands of tons of US construction equipment was dumped into the sea after WWII. We stopped at the memorial site of the SS Coolidge – an American luxury ocean liner that was converted into a troop carrier during WWII and sank as a result of hitting two US mines. The SS Coolidge and the Million Dollar Point are both world-renowned dive sites on Espiritu Santo.
The highlight of the afternoon was the Blue Holes – crystal-clear, deep iridescent blue pools unique to Vanuatu. These natural phenomena are formed when underground streams originating in the island’s western ranges resurface as spring, cutting deep circular pools into the karst. Filtered by limestone, the water in these holes is pure and gin-clear, manifesting in luminous shades of blue. What I enjoyed most was the downriver journey on zodiac through spectacular jungle that took us to the sea and finally back to our ship. We had a great BBQ aboard in the evening.
November 7 Tuesday Ambrym Island
Ambrym Island translating into “here are yams” was named by Captain Cook who anchored here in 1774. It is a ‘black’island due to its volcanic ash and because of its ‘black magic’ history. Ancient customs play a significant part in everyday village life including unique characteristics such as sculpted tam-tams (silt gongs), sand-drawing, tree fern statues and local mystical dances. Cyclone Lola named on 22 October 2023 was the strongest off-season tropical cyclone in the Southern Hemisphere with the greatest impact on Vanuatu. Pentecost, Malakula and Ambrym had been severely affected with 50% of homes damaged. Upon hearing the plight of the people, some passengers and staff donated US2,000 to provide food and water (140kg of rice, 3,000 litres of water in 20-litre containers, soap, medical supplies and another 300kg of food from the ship) for the Ambrym community.
A highlight of a visit to Vanuatu is the Rom Dance that is a sacred initiation celebration for young men taking the rites of passage into manhood. We landed at Nobul Village around 8:30am. While the fit guests spent 30-45 minutes to walk to the dance site, old and weak guests had a ride on a 4WD. I could see the damage to houses, gardens and commercial crops such as coconut trees when we drove along the road. The locals had done an excellent job of clearing up the performance site. After initial speeches, we witnessed some storytelling and sand drawing before the 30-40 Rom Dancers slowly appeared with their mesmerising beat. The captivating sound created by resonating beats, dancers’ stepping on the hard soil and rhythmic chanting, special attires, mysterious movement and gestures created the most spectacular performance of the expedition.
In the afternoon, we had lectures before attending Captain Tomasz’s farewell cocktail and dinner. A highlight was the slide show of the 16-day journey made by Stephen Bradley, our photographer on the ship.
November 8 Wednesday, Havannah Harbour, Vanuatu – Sydney, Australia
The journey came to an end after sailing more than 2,480 nautical miles over 16 days with 15 expedition stops. After breakfast, we disembarked while some passengers, few crew and expedition team members who would disembark in New Zealand, stayed on. I bid farewell to my friends, the friendly and dedicated crew and enthusiastic expedition team members. We were dropped off in a hotel where we could relax before going to the airport. My flight to Sydney took off as scheduled at 4 pm and I spent a few days with Alan, my brother and Vicki, my sister-in-law before returning to on 12 November.
Remarks
The Bali-Vanuatu expedition on Heritage Adventure from 7 October to 8 November is the third longest sea voyage I have taken so far. I appreciate the travel log and photos provided by Heritage Adventure. I have used the materials and images extensively when writing my travel notes six months after the voyage. My own photos along side with those from S. Bradley, our professional photographer, give me an opportunity to refresh my memories of this wonderful journey and reflect. Here are a few lasting thoughts and impressions.
First, it was my first long expedition in warm waters and I thoroughly enjoyed the warm sunny weather. Heritage Adventure is a comfortable expedition boat. The expedition team was wonderful with a few star speakers.
Second, the pristine water and beaches, rich coral, marine life and vegetation in Indonesia, PNG, Solomon Islands and Vanuatu are unsurpassed. I love to return to Raja Ampat one day.
Third, the cultural and bio-diversities, and ethnic groups of the whole region are mind-blogging. Personal experience is the only way one can get a glimpse of and appreciate this part of the world that has yet to be spoilt by modernisation and over-development. I try not to over-romanticise and should point out that most of the people are struggling in subsistence economy and living below the poverty line and without proper health and social services. They are neglected by their central government and subject to natural calamity such as earthquake, tsunami and hurricane etc. Despite that, the people carry on their simple life with dignity. They care about their rustic and simple home that is often adorned with plants. The environment is fragile and their practice of using charcoal is a concern. Illegal logging and overfishing are serious problems. Sustainability is a key issue for the whole region and their future.
Finally, the presence of China and economic dominance of Chinese enterprises in the region has been mentioned in lectures and other occasions. Being the only Chinese onboard, I was sad to note their phobia and suspicion. I can understand the western mentality and their sense of superiority. However, I don’t think Chinese are traditionally imperialists or colonizers (as what the European powers have done since the 15th century) as evidenced in Chinese 2000-year of history. Only time can tell!
Bordering Indonesia to the west and Australia to the south, PNG is an island country located on the Pacific Ocean. It occupies the east half of New Guinea Island that is in both Australia and Oceania, and some nearby islands. Papau and New Guinea used to be separate entities, influenced and colonized over 250 years by the Sultanate of Tidore,Holland, Germany,Britain and Japan. In 1885 Germany annexed the northern coast ‘New Guinea’ and Britain annexed the southern regions ‘Papau’. During WWI PNG was occupied by the Australian and Australia was given a mandate to administer the former German New Guinea after the war. During the WWII, the Japanese forces landed on the northern coast of New Guinea and occupied the island from 1941 to 1945. The territory achieved its independence from Australia on 16 September 1975 with Michael Somare serving as the first Prime Minister.
Divided into four regions, PNG has 20 province-level divisions including two autonomous regions of Bougainville and the National Capital District of Port Moresby. It is one of the most culturally diverse countries in the world with 832 living languages (2006) and over 1,000 distinct ethnic groups. Most of the country’s population of over 11.78 million, 85% of the people live in rural areas posing significant challenges in health, education and economic opportunities.
October 23 Monday : Sepik River, PNG
In the morning, we had a panel discussion on wild places and their conservation by Tim Flannery, Rod Morris and Lou Sanson (daughter of the first president of PNG) followed by Aaron giving a presentation on Heritage Expeditions – The Story So Far.
We reached the mouth of the Sepik River around lunch time. The 1,126m-long river covering an area of 7.7 million hectares, is one of the world’s great rivers. There is a shallow bar of no more than 5m deep at its entrance. We began with a short zodiac cruise before approaching the village of Kopar. We were greeted by a spectacular thunderstorm with lightnings and had to seek shelter under stilt houses. When the storm was over, we watched a spectacular performance of a Dragon Dance accompanied by chanting and Kundu drumming. It is totally different from the traditional Chinese Dragon Dance. Their dragon looks different too: it has a large bright head surrounded by a vast feathery headdress. We were entertained by the spirited community with a few more dances/acts that drew hearty laughter from the locals. After the performance, most passengers lingered in the local handicraft market. The masks, carved paddles, penis gourds and Bilum bags are all good souvenirs. As I have stopped buying souvenirs a long time ago, I spent my time exploring the village with a church which is neat and tidy.
Before returning to the boat, we had a zodiac cruise up the river. The banks were lined with sago palms from which the locals extract starch as their staple food. We saw a Sea Eagle, Whistling and Black Kite on the riverside branches.
We had a lovely recap of the expedition and watched a wonderful slideshow of the whole journey.
Medang – Port Vila (24 October to 8 November)
October 24 Tuesday :Madang, PNG
Today was the last day of the first leg of the expedition that ended in Medang. I woke up early and watched the ship docking at a dockyard. I said goodbye to Vivian and Nicki, my cabin mates who got off the boat while a dozen passengers stayed on for the following expedition ending in Vanuatu. The boat arranged a tour for the remaining passengers in the morning. The weather was fantastic with clear blue sky. We travelled in a minibus with multi-stops. We first stopped in the Madang Resort Hotel by the port where we saw the spectacular and big Victoria-crowned Pigeon with a large crest of feathers on its head. It is the largest of all pigeons and is found only in the wild in New Guinea and some smaller offshore islands. We enjoyed visiting the Bilbil Village and had a leisure time strolling around and talked with the locals. We also visited the Madang Museum.
Today was also the beginning of the second leg of the expedition. After lunch, I watched new joining passengers boarding the Heritage Adventure. I was glad that I stayed in the same cabin by myself. After the newcomers went through the lifeboat drill, we all joined Captain Tomasz’s welcome cocktails. The ship set sail at 6 pm heading back to the Sepik River.
.October 25 Wednesday: Sepik River and Kopar
Today, I repeated what I had done only two days ago: the ship headed back to the Sepik River and to visit the village of Kopar, one of best destinations for crafts – wood craving, bark paintings, masks, shields, figures etc. Once again, we watched several rafts of floating debris, logs and water hyacinth being swept towards the sea. The ongoing logging activities are a concern though some of the activities are regulated and legal. I watched the same traditional dance, song and drum with the performers adorned with an assortment of feathered headdresses, pendent necklaces and leg bracelets of shells. The officials gave speeches while school children sang the national anthem after the performances. While others were excited, wandered around the village and shopped, I headed towards the river on my own meeting some locals.
The ship anchored inside the northern barrier reef of Manus Island, the largest island in the Admiralty group. We were greeted by locals from the Derimbat Village (population: about 600)in well-crafted canoes. After breakfast. we went ashore after 7:30am and were welcomed warmly with ‘hey hey’ dance. After an official welcome, the locals showed us their houses and gardens. They demonstrated the art of sago making and treated us with fresh coconut juice.
By 11:30 am, we were back on board for a quick change before heading to the nearby uninhabited island of Hawei for snorkelling which I found to be average (after the great time I had in Raja Ampat Indonesia). In the afternoon, Suzanne gave an interesting talk on the Crocodile Men of the Sepik while Bruce talked about WWII in the Pacific preparing us for our visit to New Hanover Island.
Tsoilik Island laying within the New Ireland archipelago in the New Hanover District, is one of the most remote parts of PNG. I found a Micronesian feel when the locals gave their unique Melanesian welcome with traditional drums and dance. We took a canoe crossing a small lagoon where Rod showed us the Ant Plants. We also had time for drift snorkelling along the outer reef edge. I saw coral bommies, Pipefish, Nudibranchs and Anemone Fish. In the afternoon, we had a lecture from Rod on Birds-of-paradise of PNG. Then we all went on deck to watch the spectacular Steffen Strait between New Hanover and New Island when our ship was sailing through.
October 28 Saturday – Rabaul New Britain
Rabaul was planned and built around the Simpson Harbour during the German New Guinea administration that controlled the area from 1884 to 1919. It became the capital of the Australian-mandated Territory of New Guinea until 1937. The Japanese captured it in 1942, and became its main base of military and naval activities in South Pacific. During WWII some 97000 Japanese troops were stationed on the Gazelle Peninsula . More than 20,000 tonnes of allied bombs were dropped: Rabaul is the second most bombed city after Berlin.
There are five volcanoes, four on the eastern side and Mt Vulcan on the western side of the Blanche Bay, one of the best harbours in the South Pacific.
Nestled next to two towering Tavurvur and Volcan Volcanoes which erupted on 19 September 1994, Rabaul was badly damaged with 80% of its buildings destroyed. We landed at Hot Spring Beach with eerie black sand beach and sulphur-streaked boiling springs. We took minibuses and had a great sightseeing day.
On the way to the Vulcanology Observatory located on a hill behind Rabaul, our bus passed through the remains of the pyroclastic flow (ash and pumice) that has destroyed the city. We had a magnificent panoramic view of volcanoes, the bay and Rabaul and could see the extent of the three huge volcanic eruptions in 1880, 1937 and 1994 (one every 57 years!).
The second stop was the nostalgic New Guinea Club established in 1933 which is now Rabaul Museum with artefacts of German colonisation and war history. There are many great images of eruption and destruction of Rabaul buried by ash.
The third stop was at the former bunker of Admiral Yamamoto, one of the architects of Japan’s war in the Pacific and an instrumental part of the Japanese attack on Pearl Harbour. We entered the 200-metre-deep tunnel that still housed the remains of five barges.
We proceeded to Kokopo, the new provincial capital. Our fourth stop was at the Kokopo War Museum with a great collection of primarily Japanese equipment from WWII including significant parts of aircraft, tanks, artillery, naval guns, bombs and vehicles. In one of the buildings, I saw photos and records relating to the German colonisation period. The final stop was the bustling Kokopo Market with lots of commodities including betel nut, mustard stick, lime and tobacco leaves on sale.
After lunch, we had a lovely afternoon at the nearby Pigeon Island with cocktails and snorkeled off the beach.
October 29 Sunday– Nissan Island
We woke up and saw the lush green island of Nissan, the largest one of the Green Islands coral atoll. We had a warm welcome beginning with a traditional cleansing, followed by a walk past lines of smiling and engaging locals. After the usual formal speeches, we were delighted by the ‘sing sings’ and dances performed by contingents from various other villages around the island under the shade of a magnificent Barringtonia tree. These included butterfly, bird snake and waka dances. After the official activities, a few school girls took me on a village tour. Their houses are neat and they grow staple crops of kaukau (sweet potato), coconuts, some cacao and drying seaweed. We also had an adventure tour to look for the remains of a WWII aircraft. This was the best village visit I had on the whole expedition.
After lunch, I also had the best drift snorkel of the expedition. From the drop-off location, I snorkelled along the reef and saw many brightly coloured corals interspersed with Anemones Fish and Damsels. We set sail at 3pm.
We were anchored off the small port of Arawa and got on several minibuses. The Bougainville Island covered in jungle is 200km long with an area of 9,300km2 and a population of about 300,000. The people of the island culturally associate themselves more with the people of the Solomon Islands than PNG and the island has a sad and turbulent history.
Our convoy passed through the countryside and had a steep climb to the top of a mountain before descending into the notorious Panguna mine site. This copper, silver and gold mine was established in 1963 and controlled by Rio Tinto, but was closed in 1989. Once the world’s largest open-cut copper mine stretching more than 5km long and employing more than 7,000 people, it was a mini city with schools, shops, residential area, sport centres, churches and markets. In 1987, Panguna Landowners Association led by Francis Ona and Pepetua Sereo was formed. Mining polluted the Fly River and the locals demanded a hefty compensation. In 1988, the Bougainville Revolutionary Army was formed bringing closure of mines in 1989; and as many as 20,000 people died during the 10-year civil war (1988-1998). In a referendum in 2019, Bougainville people voted for independence from PNG by 2027. Though this referendum was non-binding on the PNG government, it presents a taxing problem. We stopped at the main pit, standing atop the derelict surreal sad looking massive tailings canal and the crusher plants.
After a quick lunch aboard the ship, we returned ashore to visit the Arawa market. Before returning to the boat, we had an excellent farewell performance by a group of musicians at a local Catholic mission. Most of the musicians playing guitars, kundu drums, pipes and traditional dancers adorned with face-painting, grass skirts and colourful fans were young and energetic. Goodbye PNG!
I had booked two expeditions with the Heritage Expedition to explore the coast of Sea of Okhotsk and Kamchatka in May-June 2020. COVID 19 threw the world upside down. A year later the Ukraine war made it impossible to visit Russia. I therefore switched to a one-month long expedition from Bali, Indonesia to the Papua New Guinea, Solomon Islands and Vanuatu comprising two legs I.e. Bali to Madang and Madang to Port-Vila .
As I was very busy with my studies and travel to Sydney and Sri Lanka, I did not have time to prepare. As a result, I made two mistakes. First, I redeemed my miles for a ticket to Bali. Without paying proper attention, I ended up spending some twelve instead of five hours to get to Bali via Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. Second, I set off without an underwater camera missing the opportunity to capture the captivating marine life in the most pristine waters.
October 7 Saturday: I had to leave home before 6:30am to catch a flight at 9 am and eventually landed in Bali airport around 6 pm. I was late for the welcome dinner at the Hyatt Regency Hotel. The first people I met were Aaron (the expedition leader of the first leg) and Nathan (Aaron’s brother whom I first met during the Wrangle Island expedition and who would lead the second leg); Suzanne (the culture enthusiast), Sue and David from Adelaide. I was exhausted and had good sleep.
October 8 Sunday: There were over 60 passengers on the expedition. Before boarding the Heritage Adventure, my floating home for the next thirty days, I was arranged to join a short cultural tour to Lantangidung Village, a Balinese living compound surrounded by rice fields in Ubud. These Balinese villages nestled in green fields are charming, picturesque, and clean. We visited a few craftsmen who made offerings to deities with flower, flour and bamboo; were engaged in wood sculpture,silver and batik making and oil painting. We also visited Batuan Temple, one of the most beautiful within Tri Kahyangan Village. We had a nice buffet lunch in the Royal Pita Maha Maha Hotel before proceeding to the port for embarkation ready to set sail before sunset. As usual, we had to attend mandatory briefings. I shared a cabin on Level 3 (303) with Vivian and Nicki, both are from Brisbane. They are super nice.
October 9 Monday: Sumbawa Island & Satonda Island
The ship sailed through the Bali Sea and we arrived at Sumbawa Island in the province of West Nusa Tenggara with an area of over 15,000 km2 and a population of over 1.5 million. Our guides were thrilled to have their first group of tourists since COVID. We had a tour of the Pamulang Village which is tidy, simple and clean. All timber structures elevated above ground to permit water movements during monsoon season, are adorned with lovely plants. We were invited to visit one of the huts. Apart from a few mattresses on the floor and bowls and pans in the kitchen, there is not much else. Anyway, the people look happy.
Then we watched a water buffalo race where the rider perching on an A-frame structure behind two joined buffalos, had to race down a water-flooded rice paddy field while trying to steer them over a stick placed in the mud. Traditionally this event was a celebration at the end of the harvast, local entertainment and a fun way of tilling the muddy floor of the paddy. Thijs and Gavin from the boat joined the race. Many participants were unable to control the buffaloes, lost balance and fell off. The animal lovers were not pleased and considered the animals were cruelly treated.
Our final stop was the iconic and impressive wooden Old Palace of Dalam Loka one of the largest wooden structures in the world. Dating from 1885 (during the reign of the 16th sultan of the Dewa Dalam Bawa Dynasty), it was made using wooden slotting joints and without any nails.
In the afternoon, we snorkeled and swam at the Satonda Island with a large crater lake in the center. I walked to the lake and had a dip before returning to the beach and snorkeled for an hour. I was delighted to watch a large lion fish for some 15 minutes: we looked each other in our eyes. Magical! I had my first snorkel of this expedition on 9 October. By the time I disembarked on November 8, I must have snorkeled over twenty times.
As of 2020, there are 2,175 identified separate coral species which can be classified as hard corals which form reefs by a calcium carbonate base with polyps with 6 stiff tentacles and or soft corals which are pliable and formed by a colony of polyps with 8 feather-like tentacles. I have seen plenty of hard (stony) corals- cabbage, lobed, table, boulder brain different colours, cactus, finger, star column, mushroom, elk-horn, stag-horn, cauliflower, whorls of chalice coral, pillar, tiered coral and cup coral. For soft corals, I can identify tan leather, Dendronephthya soft coral, sea fans, stinging Hydroid, mushroom leather, sea plumes, tree soft corals, spiral wire coral, sea whip etc. There are plenty of colourful sea worms (feather duster), sea slugs (Nudibranch), feather stars, sea urchin, sea cucumber, sea stars and tunicates.
October 10 Tuesday: Komodo Island & Pink Beach
We arrived at the Komodo Island with dry parched hills and a backdrop of a spectacular skyline of cones and ridges. It is the largest island in the Komodo National Park, an UNESCO World Heritage Site that I visited in June 2018 where I saw eleven Komodo Dragons (the largest lizard in the world). There are around 1,500 dragons on the island. I joined a birder group led by Frank, an ornithologist. In addition to seeing half a dozen dragons, I saw the Yellow Crested Cockatoos, Oranged-footed Scrubfowl, Tenggara Whistler, Flores White-eye, Flame-breasted Sunbird, Flying Lizard, and Green Tree Snails. In the afternoon, we snorkeled at the picturesque Pink Beach which I had spent a lovely afternoon during my last visit. The pink tinge is caused by Foraminifera, the shells of tiny marine creatures. I found the beach not as pink as before. But with snorkel gears, I could see the beach is full of soft and hard coral and tropical fish including Sergeant-majors, Butterflyfish and Clownfish.
We reached Koja (a small village) to Kodia Island (the main island) along the northern coast of the Flores. We were by a group of school girls and boys with a welcome dance. The villagers enthusiastically showed us around the village which houses had been all destroyed by tsunami except a rocky top which is now a pilgrimage site (74 steps). From this vantage point, I had excellent views of the island, surrounding coral reefs and the 800-metre long causeway constructed by hand and opened in 1978 so that kids could walk to school on Kodia Island. The fit ones walked across the causeway to visit a school. As I am slow, I returned to the boat before 11 am in order to take a reef snorkel. The beautiful clear water with colourful coral is most impressive. But I did not see as many big fish as the day before. In the afternoon, we had three lectures on birds, tourism in Wakatobi and tidal passage. I always enjoy continuous education opportunities.
Thursday, 12 OctoberWakatobi and Hoga Island
I had my first sight of the bajo (sea gypsies/once nomadic sea dwellers) on the Hoga Island, Wakatobi. The village has a Muslim population of over 2,000 whose wooden huts are built on stilts. Sanitation is poor: all human waste goes to the sea. We had an interesting zodiac cruise where we could observe the locals carrying on their daily life. We then walked around the village and I was glad to find a simple but clean clinic. I also met a group of teenage girls who looked cheerful and happy.
We had wonderful time snorkelling on the Kaledupa Island Reef with seagrass and abundant marine life: large Chocolate Chip Sea Stars, hard and soft corals, giant clams, Anemones (clown fish), Christmas Tree Worms. I did see lots of colourful coral fish and impressive massive corals. In the afternoon, we had a good lecture by Frank on birds and another by Courtney on marine life.
October 13 Friday: Buru Island
I watched sunrise over the soaring peak of the Buru Island, the third largest island within the Maluku Islands. It was only the third time the island was visited by an expedition boat. Religious affiliation is evenly split between Christianity and Islam. It was occupied by the Japanese during WWII and former president Suharto built a prison holding thousands of political prisoners during his New Order administration in the 1960s-1970s.
As I did not feel and sleep well (possibly because of the swell), I vomited twice before breakfast. Though I was not in top form, I participated in the land programme after a zodiac cruise along the limestone coast of Buru. We explored the mangroves, saw large freshwater springs erupting from the limestone cliffs and underwater, as well as dense canopies. The morning lights were magically.
Then we landed in the Pasir Putih Village where we were greeted warmly with welcome dance. Local guides showed us the village. Houses are built on land in bricks and cement as well as traditional bush materials. There are also some houses built on stilts. The village seems well-provided with wells and water taps. I noticed the change of architectural styles of the houses. (Correction: The photo above should be Pasir Putih Village on 13/10/23)
We snorkeled off the Bird Island before lunch. When the expedition team learned about my nausea and vomits, they whisked me off to isolation for 24 hours (Room 423). I later learned that several passengers had problems gastro problems. For precaution, they isolated anyone with symptoms though I was quite sure that my nausea was probably due to the sea conditions and lack of sleep. Anyway, I enjoyed the temporary solitude and had a good sleep.
October 14 Saturday: Seram Island
Today, the boat made an inaugural visit to Seram Island with an early morning excursion to a low land forest in the Manusela National Park followed by village visit. As I was in isolation, I could only watch others getting off the boat! Around 10 am, I asked the onboard doctor to release me from isolation. After checking, she allowed me to come out of the room. Unfortunately, as all the expedition staff were in the park and out of reach of the radio, I had to wait till noon when the first zodiac took passengers back to the boat. I was glad that I still had some 40 minutes roaming freely in the tiny Rumah Olatto Village where I saw an Ebenezer Church, the first church I saw during this journey. The village with some 100 families and 400 people, is super clean and tidy. Apparently, the owner of the resort, a supporter of the church and the village is building a new house for a pastor.
In the afternoon, we snorkeled at an Eco Resort where we found several endemic orchids and plants. Corals are not as extensive and spectacular as previous days: some seemed to have been destroyed by storm. Suzanne gave a fascinating lecture on the Sultans of Spice. I watched the best sunset since we set sail.
October 15 Sunday: Misool Island, Raja Ampat
Located off the northwest tip of the Bird’s head Peninsula on the island of New Guinea, Raja Ampat is an archipelago with an area of 70,000km2 comprising over 2,700 islands, cays, and shoals surrounding the four main islands of Misool, Salawati, Batanta and Waigeo. The land area is just over 8000 km2. The archipelago straddling the Equator and forming part of the Coral Triangle covers the tropical waters around the Philippines, Indonesia, Malaysia, Papua New Guinea, the Solomon Islands and Timor Leste. It contains the richest marine biodiversity on earth with at least 500 species of reef-building corals in each eco-region.
I watched a beautiful sunrise when the ship was approaching the Misool Island, the second-largest island in the archipelago. We began by exploring the iconic karst landscape labyrinth of islets formed from uplifted and undercut coral limestone by zodiac before 7:30am. It was nice and cool with an overcast sky.
The crystal blue lagoon dotted with strange mushroom-shaped eroded limestone formations was atmospheric. Hundred of terns rest on a rock-outcrop at the entrance of the lagoon. As the tide was low, zodiac drivers had to jump into the water to pull the zodiac through. The topography reminds me of Ha Long Bay in Vietnam. We discovered two Sumalelen ancient rock art painting (3,000-5,000 years old) of a hand in ochre on a rock. It depicts the vessels and lives of this early sea culture.
We landed on the island where Dapunlol Peak (100m) stands. I took a steep climb on a purpose-built staircase with 236 steps to the peak from where I could see the primordial pool adorned with impressive karst formations and lush Pandanus and Betel Palm vegetation hanging onto near-vertical landform.
In the afternoon, we snorkeled along the base of a short stretch of the limestone formations with a sheer drop to our left. I saw many dead corals, some orange jelly fish, star fish and coral fish. The sea ferns were pretty and gigantic. On the way back to the ship, Lou, our zodiac driver who was a former director of conservation in New Zealand, took us on a scenic cruise of the azure lagoon. We got close to a rock outcrop with hundreds of terns. This is the best zodiac cruise of the expedition.
October 16 Monday: Wayag Island, Raja Ampat
We crossed the Equator around 5:30 am and arrived before sunrise at the Wayag Island, the jewel in the crown of Raja Ampat. We explored this stunning area dotted with uplifted sugar loaf bare rock Islands with lust vegetation. I was delighted to a large mantra ray gliding close to the zodiac.
We found a white sand beach. While the fit adventurers climbed the steep Mount Pindito (760m) that offers unrivalled panoramic views, I snorkeled off the beach and began to notice more marine creatures and life in the sandy bottom including a colony of Giant Clams. The Staghorn Coral looked very healthy resembling a forest.
We spent a wonderful afternoon snorkeling around the Aluji Bay. Corals are rich in both variety and colour. We snorkeled off the beach along the base with a shallow end that drops rapidly to a great depth. There were large schools of fish. We had a great day ending with a BBQ dinner on deck.
October 17 Tuesday: Waisai, Waigeo Island,Raja Ampat
We went ashore at 4:30am at Saporkrena at Waisai on Waigeo Island in order to catch a glimpse of two out of the 39 species of Bird of Paradise (BoP). I joined the majority going to look for the Wilson’s BoP. Over 40 of us squeezed into a large hide and watched the bird that hopped up and down some five to fifteen metres in front of the hide. As I arrived late and was at the third row, I did not see much. When those sitting in the front row left, I moved to the front row with a good view of the bird that is magnificent and colourful. But it threw off after a few minutes. Rod, our naturalist said the bird might return in 20 minutes or an hour later. At this point, I decided to leave. A handful of people stayed on and awaited over an hour before the bird reappeared. They were handsomely rewarded with full view of the bird in beautiful morning lights.
The second group with about 15 participants had a steep and longer climb. They were able to spot five male Red BoP at the top of the canopy. The plume of this bird is gorgeous. We were all back on the ship around 11 am. In the afternoon, we snorkeled before attending great lectures on the Secrets of Photography by Steve and Dispersal of Species by Rod.
October 18 Wednesday: Manokwori & Arfak Mountain
We had our second bird-watching morning at the Arfak Mountain. We went ashore at 3:30 am, and travelled for an hour to an altitude of 1,500m in a fleet of Hilux 4WDs into the mountains in search endemic birds. I was in a 4WR with three keen birders. As a result, we visited four hides and watched two rarely observed Black-billed Sicklebill, two Magnificent BoP, a large roofed maypole bower built by a Vogelkop Bowerbird (there are 20 species of Bowerbirds). We returned to the boat before 1 pm. We were exhausted after two bird-watching days. In the afternoon, I attended lectures on birds and WWII. Bruce told the audience about the sad history of the Japanese Cave in Biak where over 3000 Japanese soldiers had died when the US forces bombed from above and poured petrol into the cave while Frank talked about the Recovery of Tropical Rainforest.
We reached the Cenderwasih Bay in early morning. From 7 to 9am, we had three rounds of swimming with five Whale Sharks that are attracted by left-over fish near a fish bagan at the bay. We had great fun! There were dozens of Greater and Lesser Frigatebirds dived to the water surface with precision aerial agility. From 10 am to 12 noon, we snorkeled near the Kali Lemon Dive Resort. Here we saw sea cucumbers, some Giant Clams and a reef with a variety of colourful hard corals and small fish. In the afternoon, we visited the Kwatisore Village, where we had a traditional welcome with a Bird of Paradise Dance. Once onboard, Abam gave a lecture on conservation efforts in Raja Ampat as well as the whole region by the Indonesian, Philippines and Papua New Guinea in order to preserve fishery (an important protein for the population) and biodiversity.
October 20 Friday: Biak We first went to the Japanese cave site which has a small museum. We entered the cave surrounded by tangled jungle through a huge hole in the rock. I find the the dark cavern penetrated by morning lights atmospheric. A few musicians playing traditional instruments in the dark further created a mysterious and sad set-up for the visit though there was nothing in the cave to remind visitors of the death of the soldiers some 70 years ago. Apart from the cave, there is a small museum with weapons and other artefact including a collection of skulls and bones of some of the victims recovered from the cave.
On the way back to the boat, we stopped at a neat fish market. I spent an hour there looking at a great variety of fish of the day. The fish stalls were not smelly at all. The chef of the boat bought ten tuna in the market (USD100 for each tuna). This is indeed a good way to support the local economy. After lunch, we headed off to the Rusbasbedas Island owned by two families. They are building a concrete path around the island. I think the existing path with dead coral is adequate and brands in well with the rustic atmosphere of the island. I took a nature walk with Rod before snorkeling off the beach. I saw plenty of coral fish. The hotel staff set up a bar on the beach and offerred guests with champagne and non-alcoholic drinks!
October 21 Saturday:Liki Island We had a wonderful time in Liki Island, which is part of the Koemamba Islands. We were surprised to see a full turnout of 400 villagers from 68 families along with officials from West Papua. The head of the village greeted us as we stepped on shore and pressed some of the sand across our forehead to ground us to the new place. We were given hats made with young coconut leaves and flowers. I was among the last group of passengers to land and was greeted with a tropical downpour of half an hour. We took shelter in local houses and verandas. The local ladies who sang and dance despite the rain, were joined by some of the group members. It was a great experience!
When the rain stopped, the Minister of Tourism of the local agency and the village head gave a welcome speech. We then toured the village and viewed artwork from a local school and the basketry of the local women. We tried the sago palm and fried fish.
By 10:30am, most of us returned to the boat to get ready for the last snorkel of the expedition. I enjoyed the slow drift snorkel in a small cove. The highlight today was the swim with two cuttlefish for over ten minutes. We also saw feather duster worms, angelfish, wrasse and the endangered Blue Coral. In the afternoon, we had lectures from Rod on wildlife photography and Fiona on her sculpting practice.
October 22 Sunday: Jayapura & Lake Sentani
It was our last day in Indonesia. The boat entered the port of Jayapura, the capital of Papua at dawn. After breakfast, we boarded a coach with police escort. Our first stop was the Museum Loka Budaya which has a fascinating collection of cultural artefact from the Papuan region including masks, shields, and weapons. We spent almost an hour in the museum.
We continued our ride to the Yobe villageby Lake Sentanilocated among the verdant hills of the Cyclops Mountains Strict Nature Reserve. We were welcomed to this village by a group of local children performing their canoe dance. We walked across a boardwalk following a marching band. Locals put wares on sale outside their huts as well as demonstrated carving and sago production for us.
We were back on board by 1pm and got ready to leave Indonesia for Vanimo in Papua New Guinea (PNG) for custom clearance. We sailed across the border which is only marked with a lighthouse on the coast, around 3:30 pm. Frank gave a lecture on birds and Bruce on the Role of PNG and Guadalcanal in the Pacific War.
I joined a 5-day pilgrimage trip to Fujian 福建 (September 21-25) organised by the Buddhist Compassion Organisation and stayed behind in the Fuzhou for two more days a few days. It is a nice discovery tour : while the basic structures and layout of all Chinese temples have similar features, all the nine temples visited have over a thousand years of history with the oldest one dating back to the end of the sixth century.
Fujian
Fujian with a population of 37 million is a coastal hilly province of which 80% of its area is mountain. It has long been an outward-looking province involved in maritime trade. It is the homeland for most Taiwanese and overseas Chinese, especially in Southeast Asia. The major cities include Xiamen 廈門 (a port town and former foreign concession), Quanzhou泉洲, an old port city with a Maritime Museum (Marco Polo considered it as“one of the two greatest havens in the world for commerce”, and Fuzhou 福洲 (the provincial capital with an old-town district and a small maritime museum).
Rich in natural and cultural heritage, Fujian has five world heritage sites (Mount Wuji, Fujian Tulou, Kulangsu in Xiamen, China Danxia in Taining and Quanzhou: the Emporium of the world in Song (960-1279) -Yuan (1368-1644) China. It also has an amazing variety of religious structures belonging to Buddhism, Daoism, Christianity and Islam. The main temple of the sea Goddess Mazu馬祖is in Putian蒲田. The first Catholic missionaries, Franciscan monks reached China via Quanzhou in 1313.
September 21: Quanzhou
The group of 36 departed by high-speed train at West Kowloon around 9am and changed in Shenzhen 深圳. Upon arrival in Quanzhou after 2 pm, we lost no time and visited Kaiyuan Temple 開元寺 built in 685 or 686 during the Tang dynasty (618-907). It was inscribed on the world heritage list along with other sites in Quanzhou. The central figures of veneration enshrined in the Mahavira Hall 大雄寶殿are the five Tathāgathas from Chinese esoteric Buddhism. Some columns have fragments with Lord Vishu in the South Indian style from a Vishnu temple built in 1283 by a merchant community from Tamil in Quanzhou. It is the largest Buddhist temple in the province.
There is a museum/memorial hall on Master Hong Yi (1880-1942) 弘一大師 who was a master painter, musician, dramatist, calligrapher, seal cutter, poet before becoming a Buddhist monk in 1916. He spent his last fourteen years in Quanzhou and his life, photos, works etc are displayed in the hall.
After the temple, we strolled in the old town admiring the blend of architecture of the old buildings with beautiful mosaics and western-styled balconies. There are also ancient boundary markers of the old town which was once the largest custom house was located for collection of tax on merchandised goods.
September 22 Quanzhou & Putian
We began the day at Chengtain Temple承天寺 (957-958). Originally known as the Nanzhen Temple南禪寺, it changed to its present name in 1007 and was rebuilt in 1691 during the Qing dynasty (1636-1912). Serious damages were done during the cultural revolution (1966-1976). A Buddhist monk from Singapore vowed to renovate the temple in 1983 and works were completed in 1990.
While the layout and structures of the halls and buildings are like most of Chinese Buddhist temples, there are a few interesting features. At the southwest corner of the temple is a site of a mint (942-944) where important archaeological finds were discovered in 2002. There is a stone column of sutra inscription with sculptures (1102-1106) with 13 levels relocated here. During his 14 years in Quanzhou, Master Hong Yi stayed most frequently in the Chengtain Temple. Before leaving the temple, I visited the living quarter where the Master spent his last days and passed away on 13 October 1943. He was cremated in this temple.
Before lunch, we had a stop at a tourist attraction where many traditional buildings of Fujian were preserved and relocated here. The most notable grand buildings are the Zhuang’s Clan Temple, Open-air Stage (opera/performance) and Cai’s Clan Temple. As we only had an hour, I only had a quick tour.
After lunch, we visited the Mazu Temple 文峰宮in Putian opposite is a small temple called Fengshan Temple鳳山寺. I discovered a beautiful and serene white jade Buddha in this small and derelict temple.
The last stop was the Nan Shan Guang Hua Si廣化寺 located at the foot of Mount Phoenix. The monastery has a long and tumultuous history. Built in 588 and named Jianxian Monastery 金仙庵, it is one of the most influential Chinese temples in China and one of the most scenic visitor attractions in Fujian spreading over an area of more than32,000m. In 771, Emperor Ruizong of Tang named it Lingyan Temple靈岩寺 and was renamed Guanghua Temple during the reign of Emperor Taizong of Song (976-997). Together with Gushan Spring Temple 鼓山涌泉寺, Kaiyuan Temple, and Xiamen’s Nanputo Temple南普陀寺, they were known as the four great Buddhist monasteries or Conglin 林of Fujian Province. During the Song and Ming dynasties, it was destroyed and rebuilt. Qing Kangxi Emperor carried out a comprehensive building programme in 1692 and merged it with the nearby Fahai Temple 法海寺. But by 1886, only the Avalokitesvara Pavillion with two resident monks remained in the monastery. A rebuilding programme began since 1890 and monks of the monastery spread Chinese Buddhism to Malaysia and Indonesia. temple. It continued to be restored and rebuilt by its abbots. During the cultural revolution, it was used as a factory and barrack. After the revolution, Abbot Master Yuanzhou 圓拙法師 (1979-1986) funded the establishment of the new Fujian Buddhism Academy 福建彿學院on the site in 1983.
I find this monastery built on the hill slope tranquil, spiritual and atmospheric. The principal features include a Memorial Arch, Pool of Rebirth, tall Mountain Gate, Hall of four Heavenly Kings, Mahavira Hall, Buddhist Hall, Jialan Palace, Tripiţaka Hall, Hall of Kritigarbha and a 30.6m-high stone pagoda (1165) from the Song dynasty.
September 23: Fuzhou
In the morning, we visited the Wanfu Temple 萬福寺 of Chan’s Linji sect 臨濟宗. 黃檗山First established in 789 by Zhenggan 正于, a pupil of Huineng 惠能 (638-713), the Sixth Patriarch of Chan School, it was destroyed and rebuilt several times. The temple came to fame as its 33rd abbot Master Yinyuan 隱元travelled to Japan on invitation in 1654 with his disciple Muyan and a delegation. Together they founded the Japanese Ōbaku school of Zen 黃檗宗. The head temple of the Ōbaku school in Uji City is named after this temple. In the 80s the temple was badly destroyed by flood. In 1989, the temple was reconstructed/renovated with the assistance of Sino-Japanese Buddhist communities.
Located at the foothill of the Huangbo Mountain黃檗山and surrounded by hills, this newly built temple with a long history looks grand with Japanese flavour. I find the natural setting and the long walk to the mountain gate next to the pool of rebirth enchanting. (After the 88-temple pilgrimage in Shikoku in end November 2023, I visited the Obaku-san Manpuku-ji Wanfu Temple lined with great Chinese-style temple buildings with Chinese flavour).
In the afternoon, we visited the Dragon Springs Temple 龍泉寺. Originally built in 554 and known as the West Hill Temple西山寺, it was the temple where Master Baizhang Huaihai 百丈懷海禪師 (749 – 814 ) became a monk. Emperor Yizong 唐懿宗renamed it Dragon Springs Temple during his reign (860-873). This famed temple had been expanded and renovated in the Song dynasty. But by the mid-fifteenth century during the Ming dynasty, it was derelict and badly destroyed. Renovated in the sixteenth century, it regained its former glory in the eighteenth century. It was again badly damaged during the cultural revolution. Thanks to the zeal and efforts of a few leading monks, the temple has been renovated with principle features restored or rebuilt. In 1998, the Dragon Spring Buddhist Academy began to take in monastic students.
September 24: Fuzhou
We set off early and had a long and beautiful drive to the Snow Peak 雪峰to visit the famous Chongshengsi 崇聖禪寺. In 870, Master Yicun義存 (822-908) established a temple which was called 枯木庵. At its peak, the temple endowed with royal patronage and generous donations, had over 1500 monks. Two disciples of Master Yicun established two sects of the Chan school namely the Cloud Gate 雲門 and Dharma Eye法眼. As a result, Chonhshengsi is also regarded as the headquarters of these two sects. During the Song dynasty, it was renamed Chongshengsi in 978. Highly regarded as the first of the ten old temples during the Song dynasty and one of the five conglin in the Qing dynasty, it has long been a pilgrimage site. However, towards end of the Qing dynasty, it had badly damaged as a result of wars. Since late 1970s, the temple with support from Buddhist communities locally and overseas, has been restored and expanded.
Located at the Snow Peak at an altitude of 870m, this expansive atmospheric temple now has an old and a new wing with sacred fragment of a Buddha tooth, relics of a couple of trees over 1000 years old, Master Yicun relics, pagodas of former abbots etc. As it was the last day of the important 7-day Water and Land Ritual, chanting could be heard with devote Buddhists prostrating in the hall. It was atmospheric. We also had lunch at the temple.
After lunch, we visited the Yongquan Temple 涌泉寺 located on Gushan Mountain. First built in 783 during the Tang dynasty and was called the Huayan Temple, it had gone through many changes and repairs. It was changed to Yongquan Chan Temple in the tenth ceentury because a spring flowed through its Four Heavenly Kings Hall. It was renamed Yongquan Temple in 1407 during the the Yongle era. Most of the structures in the temple were repaired and built around 1522-1566 during the Ming dynasty.
Today, the temple built along the up and down of the mountain has over 25 rooms and halls maintaining the architectural style of the Jiajing period (1522-1566). The treasures of the temple includes a bronze bell cast in the 18th century with the 6372 words of the Diamond Sutra carved on the outside, and over ten sets of Avatamsaka Sutra printed in the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) preserved in the temple.
September 25 & 26: Fuzhou
When the group departed after breakfast, I moved to stay in a hotel near the high-speed train station. Using taxi and the MTR, I had two days exploring Fuzhou visiting only three attractions. The first place I went was the Xichan Temple 西禪寺 with many famous monks since the Tang dynasty. Built in 867, the temple in its heydays had over 3000 monks. Interesting features include two laichee trees from the Song dynasty and five pagodas (one from the Tang dynasty and two from the Qing dynasty). Overseas Chinese have funded its restoration and renovation in the 20th century. Sadly, it was heavily damaged during the cultural revolution. It was only after 1982 when the temple was reopened and restored with overseas Chinese donation.
In the afternoon, I walked aimlessly in the Sanfang Qixiang (Three Lanes and Seven Alleys), a historic and cultural photogenic area with many preserved buildings and small museums of interest. Close by is an area with canals lined with eateries and tea houses which reminds me of Lijiang in Yunnan.
On the second day, I spent the morning in the Fujian Musuem and revisited the Sanfang Qixiang in the afternoon. I went into all the old houses that were open to visitors and a newly opened hotel that only serves vegetarian meals. Very interesting. I spoke to a lady who runs boutique in a restored house selling expensive costume of her own label. I also visited a few museums in the area. With a hip problem, I was too tired to walk up to a hill top nearby for a panoramic views. I had a nice dinner by the canal.
On September 27, I took a direct train from Fuzhou to Hong Kong which took about four hours. I was back in Hong Kong after 2 pm.
Remarks
While I have been to Mount Wuji, Fujian Tulou and Kulangsu in Xiamen on my first two trips to Fujian, it is my first time to visit temples. With the Buddhist studies in the past three years and being a Buddhist, I appreciate the chance to visit these old temples with long history. The mountainous setting of most of these temples is enchanting: I realise what congli means and the spiritual, religious and arduous life of the monastics. It is sad to see the rise and fall of these temples in the last 1500 years. I am moved to see the contributions of overseas Chinese, both monastics and laymen to the renovation and revival of these temples. It is inspiring to see the relics of renowned venerable such as Master Yicun, Baizhang Huaihai, Yinyuan and Hong Yi. There are so much to see in Fujian and I shall certainly return one day.
Categories: My China trips|Comments Off on Fujian Pilgrimage 21-27 September 2023
