4 Days in Istanbul, Turkey December 8 – 11, 2011

Turkish Bath

For a tourist on his/her first visit to Istanbul, he/she will rush around and barely cover all the must-do things. For a fourth time visitor, I have opted for a restful holiday to recuperate from my 11-day trip in Iraq. I took two cruises and discovered (or rediscovered) the beauty of the Golden Horn and the Bosphorus. I went to Bursa, the first capital of the Ottoman Empire. But the thing I enjoy most is my time in the hamam. Introduction

Turkey is huge with an area of almost 780,000 square kilometres and a population of over 70million. It is a secular state though some 98% of the population is Muslim.It is a charming country because it has a long history, arts and culture, music, architecture and above all beautiful scenery.

Turkey has made remarkable economic progress since my first visit in 1979. Given its unique geo-position stranding both Europe and Asia Minor, its long liason with ancient Greek and Roman civilisations and close ties with Europe, it longs to join the European Union.

This is my fourth visit to Istanbul as I had to travel from Iraq to Armenia to meet up with my friends on a private tour to the Caucasus starting December 18. My original plan was to travel overland from Basra in Iraq (which is only half an hour drive to the Iran-Iraq border) to Iran and then to Armenia. But I was advised not to take this route on safety grounds. At one time, I intended to visit Lebanon and then fly to Yerevan. Finally I settled for a direct flight from Basra to Istanbul as I wanted to see Mt Nemrut with huge stone heads on the mountain top, the ruins of Ani (an old capital of Armenia completely deserted in 1239 after a Mongol invasion) and Erzurum in Eastern Turkey. I could then reach Armenia via Georgia as the border between Turkey and Armenia has been closed owing to strained relationship between the two countries. But, things did not work as planned.

Beautiful and unique skyline

Istanbul, in my view, is one of the most beautiful cities. During my previous visit in 1979, early 1990 and 2009, I visited all the main attractions in Old Istanbul including Topkapi Palace, Aya Sofya, Blue Mosque, Hippodrome, Turkish & Islamic Arts Museum, Basilica Cistern, Grand Bazaar, Spice Bazaar, Suleymaniye Camii etc. and many other places of interest i.e. Dolmabahce Palace, Galata Tower, Taksim Square etc. But I still felt excited when I was on my way from the airport to the Old Istanbul.

Day 1 (Thursday, December 8, 2011): Baghdad, Iraq – Istanbul, Turkey

Sehzade Mosque

I did not feel well on my way to Istanbul. My bones were aching and I felt hot. My cough got worse. These are all signs of trouble! Upon arrival around 11am (local time), I felt so tired that I could not even manage to carry my backpack (weighting some 20kg) plus a camera bag of 7kg. I knew I had to rest in Istanbul and fly direct to Armenia in order to recuperate and preserve my energy for my ultimate 69-day trip in West Africa which commences on 5 January 2012.

I made a right decision. After checking in a hotel near the university, I went to bed and slept for a couple of hours. I got up around 5pm feeling better. I took a walk near the University and then returned to bed before 9pm. I drank plenty of water and did not eat anything except fruit. Water, fruits and rest are the best recipe for a minor ailment!

Day 2: Istanbul

I had a lazy morning in order to give my body time to rest. I spent four hours in an internet café near the university to edit my travel notes on Iraq and then upload the text and photos on my website. Things did not go well. I had to spend another three hours in an internet café opposite my hotel in the evening to complete the task. I felt relieved to get the job done as this trip might be of interest to my friends and whoever that may be interested in Iraq today.

Two events broke the monotony of the day. First I took my first Turkish bath on this trip. I always love doing what the locals would do. Given my back problem, I believe a hot bath and massage would do me well. I was the only customer and was well served by two attendants! The scrub and exfoliation were excellent .I felt like a queen with an enormous marble private bathroom and an attendant only for 80 Turkish Lire (TL). The attendant suggested I come back for an oil treatment massage for my problem right shoulder and spine for 100TL (I wish I had taken up this offer!).

Second, I shopped for a bag for my West African trip. Since it is a truck drive journey with limited luggage space, all participants are required to bring luggage of certain measurement. I got a backpack in Hong Kong. But I discovered it is still too heavy for my problem back. Hence, I must find the right bag with large wheels. I succeeded and paid US$40 for one I like. But when I took it back to the hotel, I discovered its measurement (66cmx33cmx33cm)exceeds my allowance. I had to take it back to the shopkeeper. Sophia and her husband are very genuine and friendly and found me one measuring 60x30x30 (cm) and gave me US$5 back without my asking. They showed me photos of their only daughter and I showed them my website and photos. We had a nice chat in sign language.

Day 3: Istanbul – Bursa – Yalova – Istanbul

Bursa Silk Market

I felt strong enough and decided to make a day trip to Bursa, the first capital of the Ottoman Empire. It turned out to be a long trip. I arrived at the pier at 8:45am. The next boat would be leaving at 1030am. I waited and visited the wholesale fish market next door. Quite interesting!

I arrived at the Bursa pier after 11:30am and had to first take a bus and then a metro to reach the old Bursa which is located half way up the mountain.

I arrived at the bustling old town before 1pm.The town is marvelous and totally different from the touristy Istanbul. The Ulu Camii  (Grand Mosque) built in 1396 is elegant and filled with worshippers. The architectural styles are ottoman and the silk market which is a notable one on the ancient Silk Road. I have seen a similar one in Syria but the Bursa one is more beautiful and atmospheric: the courtyard was full of people enjoying their cup of tea in the sun. The silk scarves are nicer and I brought eight as Christmas gift for my girlfriends who I would meet up with in Armenia.

City Museum

Yesil Turbe

Courtyard, Silk Market

I had a nice fish dinner at a restaurant next to the fish wholesale market. The seafood is nothing extraordinary for someone coming from Hong Kong: we are spoilt with the best seafood! But the atmosphere was fantastic: the locals were drinking, singing and dining!

Day 4 (Sunday, December 11): Istanbul

I spent my last day taking two cruises as I love water. The weather was cold and it was not a sunny day. But I enjoy looking at the skyline and discovered the city has undergone tremendous changes since my first cruise in 1979. The houses and the gardens on the Bosphorus look so elegant and smart. There have been a lot of sky-scrapers in the newly developed areas.  The Istanbul authorities have taken the right policy that restrains high-rise development in the older parts of Istanbul. Developments along the Golden Horn are not posh and humble by comparison. But this part supports the port functions with dockyards,and ordinary housing for the community.

Military College

Dolmabahce Palace

I went to the Cemberlitas Hamami, which is said to be one of Istanbul’s most atmospheric hamams. I gave myself a treat and paid 49 Euro for an oil massage after a Turkish bath. The lady who bathed me is a short and enormous lady. Her hands are rough and heavy and I felt being treated as a commodity or an animal having its weekly bath! I wished I had gone back to the small and not famous bath house for a more enjoyable bathing experience!

Remarks

I have done nothing during my brief stay in Istanbul. As I am on the road all the time, it is important to heed to my body’s need. But the rest has enabled me to re-energise preparing me for my unknown journey ahead in West Africa. I am glad to upload my notes and photos on my latest Iraq trip on website and am pleased to get some feedbacks from friends.

This will not be my last trip to Turkey. I want to return one day to roam about Eastern Turkey.Climb Mt Ararat (5137m) is still on my must-do list (if I am fit enough). The best way to do this trip is to find a friend (or friends) to hire a car and drive around on our own!