It’s been five months since the completion of my 72-day West Africa overland truck trip. It is time to reflect and sum up what I think about this epic journey.My experience and memories of West Africa have clearly been defined by the remarkable and beautiful people I have met.
I had low expectation about this trip. First, I knew little about this region except the country names. Second, there are no iconic sites or events such as the pyramids, the migration of wildebeests, the rock churches, the Victoria Falls and Mt Kilimanjaro. Thirdly, I was too busy with the trip to Iraq, Armenia and Georgia before joining the group in Cameroon in January. Lastly, I was put off by the troublesome visa requirements for most of these countries.
However, the journey turns out much better than expected. Though I have only visited nine out of the 17 countries normally grouped as West Africa, I have come to appreciate their differences and charm. My experience and memories of West Africa have clearly been defined by the remarkable and beautiful people I have met.
There are many nice surprises. The trip has been educational and I am now less ignorant about this region. Some people think all Africans are the same and do not have history. They are wrong. There are so many different tribes and races with their own history. I have seen the incredible voodoos in action in Benin and still cannot figure out what has happened.
Second, I had not planned to climb Mt Cameroon, the fourth highest in Africa. But I have done it!
Third, the national strike in Nigeria had derailed our travel plan in Nigeria. Instead, we had to spend 12 days in Benin. This turns out to be a blessing. I like this wonderful tiny country with wonderful people. Gavin is picturesque and there are also plenty of wildlife including lions, elephants, hippos and buffalos.
Fourth, I find the broad smiles of the Africans most charming. They may be materially poor but look cheerful. I am particularly impressed by the people in Benin, Burkina Faso and Senegal. The hairstyles of ladies are most fascinating. They look like art work!
Fifth, I am captivated by many simple things that are artistic and are part of their daily life. They are artistic and their music and wood craving are excellent examples of their talents. I like the daring colours and patterns of fabrics they wear. Their architecture styles including the mud houses are fascinating.
What do I like and enjoy most about this trip?
- The authentic experience
- The people
- The landscape and scenery. I love watching birds in Gambia and Senegal and fall in love with St Louis, Island of Goree and Elimina. The rustic and toy like mud huts in the Somba country and throughout the region are beautiful. The Harmattan wind blowing from the Sahara Desert had affected visibility and I had hardly seen a clear blue sky during the whole period. Anyway, it is nature. I have learnt to enjoy and see the beauty of the place whether in sunshine or nasty weather. One must appreciate each experience is unique.
- No worry – I just went wherever the truck took me! The only anxious moment was when we had to pack up within five minutes and leave a campsite in Nigeria under the surveillance of armed policemen/soldiers in darkness.
- The possibility to travel in more remote parts of these nine countries. Wild camping in a nice setting with a clear stream for bathing is fun. I cannot forget the experience of getting lost in the bush in darkness in Senegal!
What I do not like most?
- I like window-shopping and getting myself lost in traditional markets. But it becomes burdensome if I have to shop and cook for the whole group. It would be great if there is a cook travelling with the group and I would be happy to help.
- I am not looking for comfort and don’t need to stay in 4-5 star hotels all the time. But I am too old to carry and set up a tent every day. I also do not want to have rheumatism which can be caused by sleeping on damp ground. If camping is necessary, I prefer to have my own tent as I don’t wish to hit at my tent-mate on her face when I stretch my arms or snore.
- I had the worst cold ever. I must have caught it from Nicole in end February while camping in Mali. I was still on anti-biotic while in Canada in end March.
- I don’t like the time and efforts spent in getting visas for most of these countries. Tourism can bring more benefits than harm to these countries. They should adopt user-friendly visa regime if they do require visitors to have a visa. They can either go for e-visa like Australia or issue visa at the border like Benin.
- I find the numerous road blocks irritating. The officers kept asking whether we had anything for them. Such behavior is disgusting.
There are also many things I find concerning. First and foremost is the unstable political situation in most of these countries. They have elections but I do not think the people known the essence of democracy. Many of these countries have been ruled by the same ruler for decades!
Second, there are so many divisive forces threatening the already fragile nationhood of many of these countries. Regionalism is a serious problem. Corruption is rampant. Mali and Nigeria have particularly been torn by struggles for power and independence by different regional and religious groups.
I was frustrated when our itinerary in Nigeria and Mali had been changed owing to unstable political situation. At that time, I thought things might not be as bad in Mali and we should have gone to the Dogon region. But Mali hit world news when a coup took place on March 25 and the north region has been under the control of the Turangs who want independence. It is said that they have been destroying the treasures in Timbuktu. This sounds familiar to what has happened in Afghanistan when the Buddha statutes in Bamiyan were destroyed by the Taliban. What a shame!
Nigeria has also been in trouble with numerous bomb attacks. These countries need peace and time for development. But things look worrying and at the end of the day, the people will suffer.
Third, the land and fragile ecosystem of Africa are under threat. Desertification is a problem. Water is scare in some parts of this region. Despite the presence of abundant natural resources such as oil, gas, timber etc., the majority of the population is still living below poverty line. These countries generally have no effective birth control programme and the population is growing fast. A substantial number of Muslim men still have four wives and dozens of children! The demand to clear natural vegetation and forest to grow crops to feed the population will continue to grow. Also more economic activities such as mining, oil extraction, timbering and road building are ruining many parts of these countries.
I can understand the need for economic development. But it must be done in a sustainable and ecologically acceptable way. Africa needs help from experts and development with appropriate technology. International organisations should and can play a role. But I am afraid the political reality and international rivalry for influence and self-interest will make this almost an impossible task. What should be done and can be done before it is too late?
September 2012