5-day Poon Hill Trek (November 20-26)
Machhapuchhre (6997m)
Trekking, in my view, is the best way to discover a mountain kingdom like Nepal. I made my first trip to Nepal as part of a study tour to India, Nepal and Bangladesh in 1978 and have longed for a Himalayas trek ever since. Everest is said to be more a pilgrimage than a trek and a personal challenge. I joined a classic 2-week trek to the Mt Everest Base Camp (EBC) and Kala Pathar (5545m) followed by a short 5-day trek to Poon Hill in the Annapurna region.
November 20 – Kathmandu – Pokhara (960m)
I have heard a lot about Pokhara, Nepal’s major trekking hub and a beautiful laid-back town by the Phewa Lake. I booked a 5-day private trek with a porter-cum-guide and took a tourist bus to Pokhara. Weaving through the heart of the hills, the Prithvi Highway built in 1970s, is said to be the best-maintained and fastest road between Pokhara and Kathmandu road. The single-laned highway is congested with numerous heavy vehicles, trucks and buses. Road condition is poor at some sections. The 200-km journey took some eight hours including two breaks for breakfast and lunch.
I finally arrived in Pokhara around 3pm! Pokhara is fairly touristy with numerous guesthouses, restaurants, pubs, cafes and shops. The Phewa Lake, snow-cladded mountain tops, lush vegetation and low-rise buildings help retaining Pokhara’s charm and appeal. In a clear day, visitors can have an unobstructed view of the 8000m-plus Annapurna and Manaslu ranges, just 25km to the north and the double-finned 6997m summit of Machhapuchhre (“Fish-tail”). But as the weather was not good and I visited the Devil’s Falls, the Seti Canyon and Tashiling (a Tibetan settlement) in the rain.
Day 1 (November 21) – Pokhara – Birethati (1030m) – Tikhedunga (1540m) (2hrs)
Guesthouse at Tikhedunga
My guide is a student who works as a part-time guide. We went by car to Nayapull, the starting point of my 5-day trek. On this trek, there are numerous terraced fields under cultivation, villages with stone and mud houses, rhododendron forests, waterfalls and fast-running streams.
Mom & 2 daughters
I had lunch at Birethati and reached Tikhedunga at 3pm. I relaxed after taking a hot shower (heated by solar energy) and met the two daughters of the owner of the tea-house (aged 16 and 18). As the weather was cold in the evening and there was no fire in the dining hall, I had curry chicken in the kitchen and talked with the girls. Their mom was preparing buffalo meat for her husband and customers and invited me to taste the meat which was tender and tasty.
Day 2 – Tikhedunga – Ghorepani (2850m) (6hrs)
The trek from Tikhedunga to Ulleri(2070m) is not easy : one has to climb some 3400 steps! It’s hazy and the view of the valleys is fine but not fantastic. I had a long lunch stop at a tea- house and had the best chicken curry in my life! The views of the mountains and valleys from the restaurant are fantastic. I met two ladies from Hong Kong who watched a marvelous sunrise at Poon Hill that morning.
A steep climb
The path from Ulleri to Ghorepani is relatively easy. The tea-house is comfortable and I had afternoon tea by the heater in the restaurant. But I love the kitchen and took my dinner there so that I could interact with the locals and watch the chef preparing the food. I was invited to taste the local wine (raksi).
 To Ulleri |
 Mud & stone house |
 Ghorepani in mist |
Day 3 – Ghorepani – Poon Hill ((3210m) -Tadapani (2670m) (5hrs)
Watching sunrise at Poon Hill
I got up at 5am and took some 45 minutes to reach Poon Hill. There were already some 100 trekkers on the top. Unfortunately, it was cold and cloudy with low visibility and no postcard sunrise!
Beautiful mountains in morning mist
The weather improved! The well-trodden path to Tadapani affords some most beautiful views with mountains in morning mist. I took some lovely pictures of Machhapuchhre in the cloud.
I reached Tadapani around 2pm. From the garden of the tea-house, I had excellent views of Annapurna South (7220m), Machapuchhre and Himalchuli (7893m) – world’s 18th highest peak. The weather was fine and I sat in the garden to enjoy the wonderful scenery.
The power of the tea-house was suddenly off. The chef cooked with his headlamp. I spent most time in the kitchen listening to the lively chats amongst the guides. They laughed a lot while eating and drinking.The chef was cooking buffalo meat and daal with chili for the locals. I was invited to try and found the local dishes more delicious and tasty. We had full moon and the bright moonlight shining on the peaks was most beautiful.
Day 4 – Tadapani – Syauu Bazar (1175m) (4 hrs) :Highlight of the 5-day trek
Tea-house in moonlight
I was up before 6am and watched the sunrise. It’s enchanting to see the morning sun rays falling on Annapurna South which seems so close. The gorgeous sunrise and excellent views of the peaks were memorable. Joining other trekkers, I sat on a long table in the garden enjoying the magnificent scenery. This was the most enjoyable time of this trek.
First sun ray on Annapurna South
Watching sunrise
After breakfast, I descended to Ghandrung (2012m) and had a nice lunch before visiting the Gurung Museum. I had full view of the beautiful Machapuchhre, a sacred mountain. I then spent my last night at Syauu Bazaar by the river.
Day 5 – Syauu Bazaar – Nayapull – Birethanti – Pokhara (walk and by car)
Road to Ghandruk under construction?
A village with a Machhapuchhare view
I took only 45 minutes to reach Birethanti where I had brunch. The taxi was waiting for me at Nayapull and I was back in Pokhara before 1pm. In the afternoon, I strolled along the Phewa Lake which is supposed to be very beautiful with reflection of the mountains. But I hardly saw anything as it’s hazy.
Day 6 (November 26) – Pokhara – Kathmandu (by bus)
I took the morning bus back to Kathmandu and had an early dinner with Fuda before leaving for the airport. I left Kathmandu at 10:40pm and arrived in Hong Kong at 5:30 am the following morning (November 27).
Remarks
I had a wonderful month-long holiday in Nepal. The EBC trek is most rewarding and I find the mountains majestic and most beautiful. My successful ascend to Kala Pathar has wetted my appetite for trekking. I hope to reach a few more high peaks in the coming years if possible and plan to have my second trekking holiday in Nepal in 2011.
I love Nepal which is different and photogenic. This mountain kingdom with rich natural and cultural assets is heaven for tourists and trekkers. No visitor will be disappointed as there are always a lot of things to do according to your preference. The guides and Sherpa are amazing and most professional. I like the Nepalis who are warm, honest and most hard-working. These charming and friendly people have indeed made my stay most enjoyable and memorable.
What I enjoyed most on this trip
-The magnificent and beautiful scenery
-The people and the delicious food at the tea-house
-Fresh and clean air in the mountain
-The trekking experience with first-rate guide and Sherpa
-Cheerful and friendly group members from the UK
-Time for reflection and inspirations from a simple life on the trek
Areas of Concern
Tourism is an economic driver and plays an important role in the economy of many developing countries. Unfortunately, it can also bring many undesirable consequences.
Kathmandu was a small and charming place on my first visit in 1978. But Nepal has suffered from political instability, corruption, ineffective administration, poor planning and utilisation of resources. Its population has doubled since (from 15 million to about 30 million now). Though Kathmandu is seemingly more prosperous than 30 years ago and remains as vibrant as ever, poor urban planning, pollution and insufficient infrastructural developments have ruined the city. What needs to be done and can be done? There is no easy answer.
Pokhara, though touristy, is still less developed with a laid-back atmosphere by the beautiful Phewa Lake. The local government and community must be careful not to ruin the place.
Heavy trekking traffic can affect the pristine environment. Road traffice is even worse. According to my guide, a road from Nayapull to Ghandung is under construction and there will be another road leading to Tikhedunga. This will bring more traffic and development which would adversely affect the environment of the region. The relevant authorities in Nepal must be careful in preserving its invaluable natural assets.
I fully understand Nepal is a poor country and must develop with a view to improving the quality of living for the people. Given its natural and cultural assets, tourism can play its role in national development. The government should aim at sustainable development which can preserve the beauty and uniqueness of this wonderful mountain kingdom.
The power of the tea-house was suddenly off. The chef cooked with his headlamp. I spent most time in the kitchen listening to the lively chats amongst the guides. They laughed a lot while eating and drinking.The chef was cooking buffalo meat and daal with chili for the locals. I was invited to try and found the local dishes more delicious and tasty. We had full moon and the bright moonlight shining on the peaks was most beautiful.
Sarah, thank you so much for the wonderful tour of Nepal. I thoroughly enjoyed it and was enthralled by some of your photos.
Linda, friend of Paulina.