End of trip in Moscow & Epilogue
 Cathedral of Christ the Saviour, Moscow |
 Last train journey to the airport on this trip: Moscow April 2, 2013 |
April 1 Monday: Moscow
I finished my trip in Moscow as I had to take a direct flight back to Hong Kong. My train left Kiev at midnight and I arrived in Moscow at 2pm the following day covering about 1000km (The high speed trains in China and Japan only take about three hours). I slept on the train but still felt tired.
Hotels were expensive during the Easter holiday. Luckily I found Faro Hostel located on Arbat Street. It is managed by a few young Russian girls and is clean, cozy and comfortable.
It was raining and grey. I strolled around and the highlight of the day was my visit to an upscale supermarket! I was amazed to find a wide range of expensive imported food. I prepared myself a simple meal and went to bed early.
April 2 Tuesday: Moscow – Hong Kong
I did not get up till 9am and visited the Cathedral of Christ the Saviour by River Moskva. The original cathedral was bulldozed by Stalin to make way for a palace. The present enormous building a replica of the original cathedral with elaborate golden decorations inside was opened in 1997.
I intended to visit the Pushkin Museum of Fine Arts. But when I walked past the Roerich Museum, I decided to see Roerich’s paintings which I first discovered during my stop in Novosibirsk in September 2010.
It’s time to leave for the airport. I took the metro to Paveletskaya and then the airport express train to Domodedove Airport. The ticket cost 320 rubles and the journey takes about 45 minutes. Moscow has an old but efficient and extensive metro system. Unfortunately, it is not user-friendly especially for passengers with luggage. The design of the airport express train station is equally unsatisfactory with poor signage.
My Cathay Pacific Airways flight departed on time and I landed at the Hong Kong Airport at 6:30am on April 3. I was at home before 8am!
Epilogue
Travelling in Europe is relatively easy and comfortable. My 70-day long spring trip has been smooth and enjoyable for several reasons.
A trip full of surprises
When I booked my tickets (Hong Kong-London and Moscow-Hong Kong) last November, I only had three countries in mind i.e. Malta, Romania and Ukraine. The idea of going to Greece and Israel only popped up while I was in Malta. At the end, I visited four new countries.
(I) A wonderful time
I have spent a decent period in each country. Though I did not visit all the places I wished, I had a chance to soak in the atmosphere and take some off-beat trails. I had a great time exploring the four new countries which I find unique and impressive.
Malta is small but magnificent, well-organised and efficient (unlike most of Mediterranean countries). It is amazing to see the world’s oldest stone structure dating 6000 years in Gozo. A real gem in the Mediterranean! <Please read my remarks in London-Moscow (5)>
Israel a new nation after thousands years of struggle is inspiring. I have a better idea about the history of the Jews, Jerusalem and Israel. The Jewish people’s perseverance and achievements are remarkable. <Please read my remarks in London-Moscow (9)>
Romania is a hidden gem. The country is poor by EU standards and has been hit by economic recession. I find Romanians hardworking, helpful and optimistic (a stark contrast with the Greek). Ihad a marvelous time in Braşov, Prejmer, Sibiu and Cluj Napoca. The scenery and wooden churches in Maramureş and painted churches in Moldavia are impressive. My unexpected side trip from Biertan to Copa Mare opens my eyes to dire poverty and the harsh life in underdeveloped rural areas in Romania.
Ukraine still remains a mystery to me. I have not realized the suffering of the Ukrainians in the last century with millions of people dying in famines and the catastrophic damages to its cultural heritage and loss of life during the communist era. After spending hours in churches watching worshippers standing, kneeling and praying I find the people deeply religious. My visit to the mystical Caves Monastery in Kiev is a most unforgettable experience! In any event, Chernivtsi, Kolomiya, Kamyanets Podilsky, Ivano Frankivski, Lviv and Kiev are all worth visiting.
(II) Travel with ease
As the land transportation systems and air services in Europe are well-developed (as compared with Africa), I have not wasted time on the road!
I find winter a good time to travel. Tourist attractions are less crowded. I stayed in a couple of nice hotels at a bargain price. I also enjoy staying in decent and centrally located hostels which have given me an opportunity to meet locals and cook for myself.
(III) The people
I stayed with friends in the UK and had a great time. I have met many new people who helped me when I was desperate. The lady in the Jesus’ Boat Museum by the Sea of Galilee found a tour leader to give me a lift. A Greek couple helped me to find a hotel at 1am in Patmos. Ben and Camilla gave me a lift in Prejmer, Romania and have told me a lot about Romania. Above all, I cannot thank Nilly and Rani enough for having me in their lovely house in Tel Aviv and introducing me to Israel.
This trip has also given me plenty food for thought.
Greece
I am concerned about the situation and future development in Greece. The Greek take great pride in their civilization, history, culture and islands. It is said that natural lights of Greece show unrivalled limpidity and luminosity and under the “sovereign sun”, things are clear. I have deep affection for the country since my visits in the 1980s. I am glad to see Athens transformed into a vibrant attractive capital after the 2004 Olympics Games and discover the charming Patmos and wonderful archaeological sites in Kos and Rhodes.
But I am sad to find Greece in a bad shape beset with problems. I have seen few smiling faces: people are pessimistic and unhappy blaming the government and the austerity measures imposed on them. Based on my observations and personal experience, I think the psyche and mind-set of the Greek and inherent problems of the country have also attributed to the mess today.
First, I am not impressed by the Greek’s productivity, professionalism and efficiency. Tourism is an important economic sector but the service in my view is far from satisfactory. The Archaeological Museums close at 4pm. I was told to leave around 3:30pm! I tried to learn more about the Greek tourism sector by booking ferry tickets and accommodation with an agent in Athens (normally I use online service). But the service I had is poor and unprofessional. The so-called 2/3-star hotel I stayed in Kos is poor.
Second, the image of idyllic islands with cheerful people, beautiful landscape and cheap accommodation has gone. Poros, Hydra, Aegina, Santorini and Crete were charming, rustic, tranquil and adorable which I visited them in 1980s. But Kos and Rhodes today are over-developed with hotels and massive resorts and souvenir shops.
Third, I find valuable resources of the islands not put to optimal use. Greece has long been seen as a ‘sun and beach’ destination. It also relies heavily on cruise tourism. Hence despite the mild climate, beautiful natural scenery, rich history and remarkable archaeological sites, the islands are dead in winter. Tourists can bring substantial contributions to the economy of the islands. Imagination, change of mind-set, coherent and appropriate policies and development of good tourism products are required.
Fourth, Greece is said to have a substantial black economy. If people do not pay tax and find ways to boast business and confidence, the economy is doomed to fail. Protests, demonstrations and frequent change of government do not inspire confidence. Political instability and an unhappy country would further drive tourists and investors away. I find Malta which has similar climate faring much better: it lures many tourists in winter with cheap accommodation, airfare, natural scenery and history. With Greece’s rich tourism assets and extensive ferry services, main islands rich in history and archaeological sites can and should be developed into a year-round destination like Athens.
Religions
Religion plays an important role in all the countries I visited on this trip. I find Orthodox Christianity in both Romania and Ukraine mystical: the ceremonies are colourful and elaborate. The Romanians and Ukrainians are pious spending hours at the service. Though these two countries are not rich, they seem to spare no money in building new churches and maintaining the existing ones.
Politics
The Orange Revolution in 2004 had once raised hopes in Ukraine. Unfortunately, it has not brought about fundamental changes and real democracy to the country. Ukrainians with whom I have spoken are frustrated with the politicians and fed up with corruption. I hope Ukrainians will not give up. Given their highly educated population, I believe the country can develop in a democratic and sustainable way in the long run.
Tourism for Romania and Ukraine
I am sympathetic with Romania and Ukraine both of which have suffered in the last century. Their people deserve a better life and I wish them lucky. These two countries have so much to see and I hope more visitors will visit come and their spending can benefit the people and the country. Rural tourism which can be instrumental in facilitating development in the neglected and underdeveloped parts of the country should be promoted.
Peace
The country that has impressed most on this trip is Israel which is modern, organised and highly developed. Its people and government are tough and determined to defend their interest and country. The problems in the Middle East and between Israel and the Arab countries are most worrying. I pray for peace and tolerance amongst different people, cultures and religion in this region.
Sarah in Moscow, June 24, 2013