 A Photo of Grozny after First Chechen War (1994-96) |
 Khoi Village left in ruin after deportation of Chechens in 1944 |
Background
The oldest settlement found in the region dates back to 125,000 BC. Forces of the Mongols and Timur in the 13th and 14th centuries devastated the North Caucasus. Russian encroachment of the region began with Ivan the Terrible’s conquest of Astrakhan in 1556 and the Russian Terek Cossack Host was secretly established in Chechnya in 1577. Chechens converted to Sunni Islam mainly to gain support from the Ottoman Empire against the Russians. The territories of Georgia and Chechnya were transferred to Russia by Persia (present-day Iran) as a result of the Russo-Persian War (1804-1813) and the whole North Caucasus became part of the Russian Empire after the Caucasus War (1817-64).
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The long and brutal war caused a prolonged wave of emigration from mid to late 19th century. It is estimated that the Chechen population fell by 1.3 million. Chechens and the Ingush are closely related and their territories were incorporated into the Chechen-Ingush Autonomous SSR during the Soviet era. They were exiled to Central Asia and Siberia in 1944. Centuries of suffering and suppression explain Chechen’s animosity towards the imperialist Russians and their demand for independence when Soviet Union broke up in 1991.
Recent history of Chechnya is stained with blood and violence. Chechens sought independence and proclaimed the Chechen Republic of Ichkeria and gained de facto independence after the First Chechen War (1994-96). The federal government fought back at the Second Chechnya War in 1999 and established control in 2000.
 Father -First President (L) & Son – Third President (R) |
 Land vacant after bombing (Front) & President’s new office (Back) |
The republic has been wrecked by insurgency and political instability. The First President Akhmad Kadyrov backed by Kremlin was assassinated in May 2004. Ramzan Kadyrov son of the First President was appointed President to succeed Alu Dadashevich Alkhanov in March 2007 at the age of 30. Chechnya is keen to develop tourism and has attracted some 100,000 visitors mainly from other parts of Russia, Turkey and Europe. Reconstruction and extensive building programme have transformed Grozny into a modern city. Few traces of war can be seen in the capital and the redeveloped areas.
July 4 Thursday: Ingushetia – Grozny, Chechnya (85km)
Warm greeting from Chechen officials
We arrived at the border before noon and were warmly received by a group of young officials (all in their twenties) from the Department of Foreign Affairs of the Republic of Chechnya. I am delighted to get to know Adam, Abraham and Ediner from whom I learn something about their upbringing, culture and Chechnya today.Adam was born in Chechnya but his family had to leave during the Chechen Wars. His parents returned in early 2000s while he went aboard to continue with his studies. He speaks both Turkish and German. Our 28-year-old interpreter Abraham born in Kazakhstan speaks perfect English. Ediner married young and studied tourism in Moscow after having a son who is now five years old. I enjoy their company and have a feel about the life of the people.
The road from the border to Grozny is well-paved without much traffic. Posters of the First President and his wife and President Ramzan Kadyrov are seen along the main highway, on monuments and buildings. Grozny has been totally rebuilt after the war and remnants of bombing can hardly be seen. There are several main roads in the capital. The Avenue of Putin is lined with modern residential blocks which have been completed in the last few years.
We arrived at the 5-star Grozny City Hotel around 2pm. From the restaurant on the top floor affords fantastic views of the city, the Akhmad Kadyrov Mosque, the President’s office and several empty high-rise commercial buildings. The Opera House and a high-class residential block are under construction. The expansive site opposite the hotel is where the Government buildings once stood.
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 New commercial centre & Grozny City Hotel (centre) |
Around 3pm, we began our city tour. The first stop was the Memorial Complex Alley of Glory opened on May 8, 2010. It begins with the Alley of Glory on which a monument to the Hero of the Soviet Union, the legendary Chechen warrior Movlid Visaitov stands. We visited the Museum of the First President of the Chechen Republic Akhmad Kadyrov (1951-2004) who was assassinated on May 9, 2004. This visit provides a good introduction on the republic’s recent history.
Akhmad Kadyrov was born in Kazakh SSR and studied Islam in Bukhara and then Tashkent in Uzbekistan from 1980 to 1986. Upon return to Chechnya, he founded the Islam Institute in 1990s in the Kurchaloy.
 Akhmad Kadyrov (Middle), Husein Isaev (Right) |
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Kadyrov a leading figure in the resistance movement supported the separatist President Dudayev who declared independence in 1990. In 1995, he was appointed Chief Mufti of Chechen Republic of Ichkeria. In 1999 he abandoned the insurgency at the outbreak of the Second Chechen War, offered his support to Russian federal forces and acted as head of administration starting July 2000 when Russian forces established control over Chechnya. He became the President on October 5, 2003 and advocated numerous amnesty campaigns for former rebel fighters.
On May 9, 2004, Kadyrov was assassinated by Chechen Islamists during a WWII memorial victory parade at the Dinamo football stadium. Some 30 people including Husein Isaev, Chairman of the State Council of the Republic were killed and over 50 were injured.
The second stop was the Akhmad Kadyrov Mosque officially known as “The Heart of Chechnya”. The mosque opened in October 2008 is based on Istanbul’s Blue Mosque with four 62-m high minarets. (Two photos of the mosque taken in the evening)
 Girl from Kazakhstan in the mosque |
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The last stop was the Akhmat Kadyrov Arena, named after the First President opened in May 2011. The stadium has a seating capacity of 30,000.
 Group photo in Arena; front roll: Adam (L1), Peter (L2), Abraham (R) |
 Welcoming Chechen ladies |
July 5 Friday: Excursion to Lake Kezenoi-am
Lake Kezenoi-am near the border with Dagestan is about three hours’ drive from Grozny. The lake has an area of 2.4 km² and is 1870m above sea level with a maximum depth of 74m. We travelled in two minibuses and were accompanied by two police cars and five other vehicles!
Teip is a Chechen and Ingush tribal organisation or clan, self-identified through descent from a common ancestor and geographic location. We first stopped at the Kharachoi (one of the teips) village which is famous for longevity: the eldest lady is now 123 years old. We had a fun time in the village as we met a group of pretty girls who are contestants in a beauty contest. We had a fun time taking heaps of pictures!
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The winding road and mountain scenery are impressive. We had a photo stop at the Harami Pass. Weather in the mountain is unpredictable: clouds settled in and it started to rain.
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When we arrived at the Lake, we had to take shelter in a tent where we had our packed lunch. A group of soldiers were having lunch there and they entertained us with their traditional dance Lezginka which can be a solo, couple of group dance. The man imitating an eagle dances in quick, concise steps; falling to his knees and leaping up quickly. The woman dances quietly taking small steps. When the dance is performed in pairs, the couple would not touch: the woman acknowledges the man and dances discreetly about him. Mrs. Gu, YY and On joined in and they all danced well!
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 Kezenoi-am Lake |
 Ediner (Middle) |
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After lunch, we visited the Khoi village located above a deep gorge of River Hulhulau and close to Dagestan. Guided by the head of the village committee, I had the most interesting guided tour of the whole trip. He explained that the area has been inhabited for over 2,000 years and was once a fortress city with some 200 families. The villagers left in 1944: they took over a month to walk to Grozny where they boarded a train to Central Asia. More than half of the exiled died on the way or in Central Asia. He was born in Kazakhstan in 1950 and returned in 1960s.
Khoi Village above the gorge
 Two-storey stone house |
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The whole abandoned village site is atmospheric. The former villagers lived in two-storey stone dwellings with animals kept in the lower level. He took us inside one of the derelict stone structures and showed us how the houses were constructed. The stone arches are simple but beautiful.
We saw a huge pile of stones. He said that a 30-m high watch tower was blown off in 2002 by Russians to prevent terrorists from hiding there. What a dreadful way to destroy an invaluable cultural heritage and outstanding example of architecture of the region! He is hoping to preserve the ruins and rebuild a new village on the high ground. About 20 families have returned and his idea is to develop the lake into a tourist and recreation area generating revenue for financing the development project. It is a nice idea as the whole North Caucasian region is rich in historical, cultural and natural tourism resources. But his dream cannot come true without first and foremost peace and stability in the region. Also concerted regional planning and promotion of North Caucasus as a destination are required.
When we returned to the lake, we were thrilled to see sunshine and blue sky again! We were treated with delicious grilled shashlik, soup, salad and bread! I ate a lot and planned to skip dinner! When we were ready to leave at 5pm, we discovered the drivers had gone boating. We waited for them for half an hour. We stretched our legs midway at a natural spring.
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 Holy spring |
We arrived in Grozny at 8:30pm and were taken to a 3-star restaurant. I had to abandon my plan to fast. Anyway I was too full and could only have a drumstick and salad.
July 6 Saturday: Excursion
According to information given to us, Chechnya’s most famous historical and cultural monument is the 240,000-hectares Argun Historical- Architectural and Natural Museum-Reserve near the border of Dagestan, Georgia and Ingushetia. In the Reserve, there are some 1000 facilities which are archaeological monuments, architectural complexes of Middle Ages, military, guarding and dwelling towers, caves, grottoes, crypts, dead cities and unique natural reserves, protected natural landscape forests and mineral water springs. Today, we were arranged to see the mountainous Itum-Kalinsky district and the Argun Gorge which are within the territory of the Reserve.
The road carved into the limestone cliffs is scenic and impressive. We had our first photo stop at the Nihaloy Rock with a famous spring. Locals stop their car to fetch drinking water.
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The second photo stop was at the two Ushkalov Towers standing on a high cliff. The river flows through the narrowest part of the gorge near the towers which were restored in 2011.
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After a scenic drive, we arrived in the Itum-Kale village with the restored Phakoch Castle complex, a medieval historical-architectural complex of the XI-XV centuries which centre-piece is a massive tower of petroglyphs. In one of the nearby dwelling towers, old weapons, utensils, household items and tools are displayed on the ground floor. We also visited the memorial museum on the second floor which is dedicated to the late Husein Isaev, the first Chairman of the State Council who was killed along with the first President Ahmat Kadyrov in 2004.
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We went to see a waterfall before lunch. I have seen too many magnificent waterfalls and do not consider it worth a side trip.
Our lunch in a local restaurant was nice with plenty of fresh vegetables, rice and boiled beef. Adam and Abraham sat on our table and told us about their traditions. Most Chechen girls marry before they are 20 years old while men marry before the age of 25. Adam is going to get married in August. He is not allowed to touch or hold the hands of his wife-to-be till they are married. I am surprised to learn that a young couple cannot go on holiday without the company of their family in the first two years’ of the marriage. Adam being the youngest son has the responsibility to take care of his parents in their old age. It is costly to get married, to rent or buy a flat.
We arrived at the Berkat Market before 6pm. Kylie and I spent an hour strolling in this large market with thousands of stalls located in dozens of buildings scattered around a mosque. We tried to buy some dried fruit and scarves and had lots of fun with the vendors. The ladies are sociable and laugh all the time. I find them open, jolly and welcoming.
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July 7 Sunday: Museum and Gallery
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After breakfast, Kylie and I went to the only Orthodox Church in Chechnya which is close to the hotel. We switched to a comfortable coach today and arrived at the Ethnological Museum of Dondi-Yurt, a private museum in the town of Urus-Martan.
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 Local TV interviewing Peter Cheng |
Adam Satuev, a former policeman laid the first stone of the museum in 1991 which was opened in 2000. He has spent 15 years in building the towers, tombs and a few walled-cottages of the styles at the time of the Caucasian War. Exhibits include all sorts of antiques and artifacts (army uniforms, weapons, stones and fossils, furniture, household goods and farm tools) collected by him or donated by the inhabitants. At the age of 62, Satuev looks handsome and imposing. He took us around explaining in great detail about every single item.
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 Olga from Vladivostok |
Then a TV crew arrived. The reporter interviewed Peter and Henry. (Unfortunately, we did not see the report on TV before our departure). Satuev got very sentimental and presented Peter with a 27-year old jar as souvenir. He loves his country and prays for peace. We took pictures with him and spent some two hours in his dream world!
After a light lunch, we went to the Iles Tataev Gallery and were met by the artist Iles Tataev and his wife. His life story is fascinating: he was 14 when his family was forced to their homeland and studied film-making in Moscow on return from exile. He is strong and humorous and is passionate about art! After making some 50 films, he found his true love in wood sculpture. His works are unique and have been exhibited overseas. He hopes to bring his works to China one day.
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Beautiful Chechen girl
Our guide arranged us to see a singing contest similar to ‘American Idol’ in the National Theater. Peter was told that the President of the Republic might come. We were seated before 4pm but the show did not start till 5:20pm. There were over a dozen contestants of both sexes. The ladies are mostly slim and beautifully dressed. A few bands played heavy music which was so loud that I had to cover my ears with both hands. There was no sight of the President and I was relieved to leave the theatre at 7:30pm.
 National Library |
 National Theatre |
We went to a popular restaurant with a large dancing floor. Our Chechen friends hoped to teach us their traditional Lezginka dance. But there was response from the group which preferred to have an early night.
July 8 Monday: Grozny, Chechen – Makhachkala, Dagestan
Kylie and I got up early and planned to take a picture of the President’s Office nearby. But we were stopped by the guard at the entrance of the driveway which is several hundred metres from the building. I had the same experience in Turkmenistan and North-Ossetia.
 National Museum of Chechyna |
 Muslims celebrating Ramadan |
Today was the beginning of Ramadan, the ninth month of the Islamic calendar and fasting. Locals rushed to the Mosque Square and many were waving the Chechen flag. It was atmospheric and I wished I were with the crowd.
Before leaving Grozny, we had a photo stop at the National Museum of the Chechen Republic which is closed. We arrived at the border around 11:30am. Instead of changing vehicle at the border, we travelled in the same coach with Adam and Abraham all the way to our hotel in Makhachkala capital of Dagestan.
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